Outer Limits 4x4 Board

as is states guys im thinking about moving the radiator to the rear on the tray im after some pics and advice pro's and con's etc

i'll keep an eye on this thread too... because i'm doing the same thing..... from what i can tell, you need to buy an electric boost pump to make it work..... Davies Craig sell one for about $195 that will do the job..... i am yet to order mine.

Call me stupid bt why would you want to do that for? What are the advantages?

i guesse its more protected from bog holes and can also be cooler no engine heat

whiteknight wrote:Call me stupid bt why would you want to do that for? What are the advantages?

Speedway guys do this all the time, protects the radiator and stops the clay from the track clogging it up

whiteknight wrote:Call me stupid bt why would you want to do that for? What are the advantages?

stupid ...... You will have more water volume aswell because of the 4 meters of hose it ll need , so that should mean cooler temps , and it takes alot of weight of the front end . All good here huh..............

You'll have to carefully place the hoses.. they'll be hot and they wont be able to be scraped on anything... where are you thinking of running them?

Yeh mud tends to clog up radiators and it a bitch... and them small fins dont take too much of a beating either.

If you remove your radiator, more cool air will get to your motor also, which will make a bit of difference to temps.

As said, more coolant in the system will also help to run cooler Cool is cool!

AND, you will be able to use any radiator you desire... get a big mofo one coz there is no set mounting points.. use your old radiator as an oil cooler LOL

I've seen many Subaru Brumby's with a radiator mounted on the roll bar behind the cab, with two big thermo fans on it.. looks mean too

Wouldnt it be best to run stainless steel pip under the car and up to the radiator with rubber bends. That way they wont get damaged? also if you move it to the back would you recquire a higher voulme water pump as well?

make sure your water pump has the capacity to move the water around...

If i remember the old lockless buggy had its water pump changed to a bigger one mainly because the smaller one didnt have the capacity to push the water thru faster enough which gave it overheating issues.. Once the larger pump was put in.. the problem was fixed..

(only from memory so dont quote me )

we've done it to a GQ ute with a 383 chev V8 in it
we fitted a hi-flow pump to the motor and fitted an electric inline pump near the radiator at the rear of the ute
it ran stainless pipework rubber mounted with flex hose ends
make sure you run bleeders in your high points in you flex and pipework
to remove airlocks.
where also running twin 16" fans (i think) and a header tank above the radiator on the rear

Alben Perrett's (LCMP owner) GU ute had its radiator under the tray mounted on an angle.

Not that I have done this before, but you'd have to get the water flow pretty right I'd think, because both too fast or too slow would potentially cause over heating. Extra water capacity would also help with this I suppose.

i was going to use 1 1/2" exhaust pipe and mount them in stauff clamps.... won't have to worry about rust if you keep the anti-freeze fresh.

RoeDao wrote:i was going to use 1 1/2" exhaust pipe and mount them in stauff clamps.... won't have to worry about rust if you keep the anti-freeze fresh.

couldnt you just get some Gal pipe, like they use for fire hydrents in buildings,

ozy1 wrote:

RoeDao wrote:i was going to use 1 1/2" exhaust pipe and mount them in stauff clamps.... won't have to worry about rust if you keep the anti-freeze fresh.

couldnt you just get some Gal pipe, like they use for fire hydrents in buildings,

a little too heavy for what you are doing with it...... harder to make, harder to adapt to.....

What about copper pipe

Piss easy to bend weld and get your hands on

i was going to use something like stainless and where bends need to be use rubber hose or should i get them bent with a bender

i didn't know you could get high flow water pumps can you get one for a VN 5.0L

stainless would work well....... a little exy though..... copper would probably crush too easily..... it would be interesting to see what others have used... i suspect probably exhaust pipe

It all comes down to how you run It
As anything will get squashed when run in the wrong place`s
When 2+ tone of truck land`s on it .

stool wrote:It all comes down to how you run It
As anything will get squashed when run in the wrong place`s
When 2+ tone of truck land`s on it .

i was planning to run it between the chassis and body i have body lift
but using rubber bends? instead of bending it as one piece obviously one piece is better but will it be ok using rubber bends

Exhaust pipe works ok , a couple of davies craig's Fans, I run standard pump
3.8 gm , and run a couple of bleeders for air purge ,

(I Don.t see the need for an extra Pump, But every one to there own )

I found the most important and hard part to be removing the air from the the system .

Larry

Dozoor wrote:Exhaust pipe works ok , a couple of davies craig's Fans, I run standard pump
3.8 gm , and run a couple of bleeders for air purge ,

(I Don.t see the need for an extra Pump, But every one to there own )

I found the most important and hard part to be removing the air from the the system .

Larry

can you post a photo of the set up and your air bleeders mate

Just an inline filter forgot what the call them , and a ball rooster .
at the front and rear of the motor at the highest pionts ,

have one of the filter,

Do a few searches on Pirate too. There's heaps of write-ups on rear mount radiators.
Bleeding the system seems to be the biggest issue.
Methods like removing front wheels and jacking up the rear a few feet help a lot.

Some standard water pumps will manage fine, other vehicles will require an additional electric pump.

most steel places stock aluminium pipe, by the time the water reaches the radiator it should of lost a third of its heat already.

jeep97tj wrote:most steel places stock aluminium pipe, by the time the water reaches the radiator it should of lost a third of its heat already.

thats a bloody good idea actually...... i didn't think of the heat absorption of aluminium

Not sure on the practicality of it but has anyone thought of manufacturing replacement thermostate housings with a bleed screw on the top.