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bumper mount vs rubber .. the winner is??
Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 4:21 pm
by rainsey
Folks,
( I am still throwing up what tyre to go for hence the question...)
98 Rodeo .. where the bumper / bull bar mounts is a portion of metal chasis with 2 bolt holes that point back to the rear . Mine is exposed as the bull buris probably forward of its original mount.
Had a 285/75/16 with probably 70% trad on the other day to see if it fits and on full lock there was a poofteenth of an inch gap from tread to chasis.
Question... I am guessing the worn 285 is roughly the diameter of a 33 muddy (841mm for a new 285 and I think 833 for a 33). Love to go the 33's but do not know any one I can borrow one off ..... soooooo...
Anyone out there that has BFG 33's with plenty of rubber on a Rodeo and can visualise this part of the chasis I am talking about.... does it make contact???
Cheers
Rainsey
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:42 am
by Utemad
Just had a look at mine and it looks like it would be the bumper bar mounting holes. They are the only thing that would protrude back that far. Mine has a bar covering them of course but if your bar is mounted further forward than standard then this would be it.
See your other thread about the 33s. Did you check clearances at full compression and full lock etc?
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:52 am
by rainsey
Utemad,
Just replied to the other post ... ta....
Full compression no... full lock ... yep. It was the full lock that I just cleared the bull bar mount. If I lopped of an inch or so of chasis (as it is just hanging in the air ) I could fit the 285 in no probs.
I might take a photo of what I am talking about an place it up here to clarify what I am getting at.
Thanks for the feedback
Cheers
Rainesy
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:56 am
by Utemad
I only had a quick look (raining) but I reckon that if your bar was not attached to that piece of metal then it will not be missed if you cut it off.
Off to your other thread now...
clearance
Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 12:37 pm
by sudso
Rainsey I know exactly what you are talking about.
I have an ARB winch bar bolted to mine. At the bottom mounts inside the wheel arches I have 3 bolt points and the one most rearward has a bent tab.
This is the one when the wheel travels up that will dig into the tread with 33's but with 32's I think it might just rub it.
I want to get 32" on 16's and I'm going to have to cut that rearward bolt point off both sides to avoid rubbing. I cant see it weakening anything as the b/bar has plenty of mount points already.
Careful how wide you go with tyres as not a lot of room in the arches on our 98's.
wind her up 2" and flip the upper ball joints, with 32" actual tyre dia. and the right rim offset you should have no probs.
This is what I'm going to do anyway with Maxxis MT 753 Bravo's
LT265/75R16 E10PR (32" x 10.5" actual size)
http://www.maxxis.com/products/automoti ... asp?id=190
Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 12:52 pm
by rainsey
Sudso,
Sounds like you are wanting to do exactly the same thing. Say.. what width rims do you have or are getting ? 7 or 8 "
Cheers
Rainsey
Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 2:26 pm
by sudso
I have 15 x 7's at the mo. with 10.5" wide Maxxis Bravo Radials and it's all good.
So I think that 16 x 7's should be alright with the Bravo M/T's as the ones I want are also 10.5" wide just bigger dia. but that might warrant a wider rim too.
I dont know if you had a look at them but to me they look like a good all rounder, not to aggressive and not too passive either. Kind of a rugged A/T or a light M/T.
I'm waiting on a quote from Bob Jane t-mart as they dont have them in stock although they are a Maxxis dealer.
Yes it looks like we're going down the same track. I want some extra clearance too, I dented up the front of my l/r tank up the SA/Vic border track a few months ago. Just had it replaced on ins. but I'm a welder so I'll fix the old one and sell it to cover my excess cost.
I'm going to get all my lift done at the same time. For the rear I'm thinking of Dakar 50mm or Ironman have 45mm sets.
I'm going to keep the stock t/b's but wound right up, as Roe reckons the heavier after markets ones restrict upward travel quite a bit.
I'm trying to source the right size h/t bolts from ARP for the upper ball joints as these bolts are used on race engine conrods, cranks etc. and are stronger than grade 8 bolts.
Will probably get some foam cell shocks as I've been told these are better for lots of corrugations.
It's been a PITA trying to source rear leaves as every supplier contradicts everyone else.