Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Is it necessary to cut and rotate steering knuckles? What other options do I have?

I found these relating to a zook, Could I apply this to my Daihatsu Rocky on MQ diffs?
http://www.projectsamurai.com/tech/rro- ... stall.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/ ... 57700.html

SEARCHED:
MQ-MK bible
Google
General tech
And tried pirate.
Thought id add this so people don’t just go “not same SPOA again, SEARCH for itâ€

It depends if you are running standard springs and spring packs. If you are running the factory springs and not altering the pack (taking leaves out for flex) then you could probably get away with it. If you are modifying the pack or running lifted springs or doing a shackle reversal then you will definitely need to c and r. If you have the know how and are a proficient welder/ have a good mig etc. it is probably worth doing anyway. MY45 did a good write up on how to do it for a cruiser
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 084#194084

My 0.02, Good luck!

just do it, the cut and rotate is the easiest part of doing a springover.

it is not entirely essential to cut and rotate your knuckles, castor may be coreected by installing wedges, BUT a cut and rotat will fix your castopr AND the your picion angle will be much better. If you have not put the diffs under yet, then it will only take you half a day, day at the most to ut and rotate. We did Robs 40 from drive in to drive out one night....started at 7pm finished at 330am

i had a read of my45s thread and thought it was pretty kewl. and useful
i welded new perches onto the housing and thats the most welding i have
ever done since school tech class.


if i leave the pinion parallel to the ground and was to run a DC shaft,
would it ease pressure on driveline angles etc?

Spartacus wrote:i had a read of my45s thread and thought it was pretty kewl. and useful
i welded new perches onto the housing and thats the most welding i have
ever done since school tech class.


if i leave the pinion parallel to the ground and was to run a DC shaft,
would it ease pressure on driveline angles etc?

a DC can be a blessing or a curse - some DC's can handle more angle than a single uni, but some can not, and they take up a lot more space, making the straight section of the shaft shorter, thus increasing the angles. to use a DC at the transfer end you NEED to point the diff flange directly at the transfer flange. to do it without a DC (ie if you don't have space for a DC) you need to point the diff up PAST pointing at the transfer output flange, so the angle is 'shared' between the 2 uni joints, like this \_/ - gives better results, less angles, less vibration than the traditional --\_ setup. if those scribbles don't make sense to you I will draw more comprehensive diagrams.