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Landi LPG converters
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 2:18 pm
by RaginRover
Hi Guys,
Just a quick question, I was looking at changing the omvl converter on my 1991 3.9 Rangie across to a landi convterter that I have picked up.
I have heard they are quite a stable system, this car runs an open loops system and I am looking for a bit more economy and a nice stable setup so my wife will drive the car on LPG
Now I have looked at the landi conveter and it only has one adjustment screw on it which I assume is the idle adjustment and I assume I adjust the gas delivery via the thumb screw in the dry gas line. Am I correct ? does anyone have any info on this ?
Thanks for you help
Tom
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 6:28 pm
by F'n_Rover
the screw on the unit is for idle, adjust for good idle ??
the one in the line is for cruise - this is how i have adjusted in the past, hold motor at ~3000 rpm then slowly wind screw in until revs drop. wind out a bit, jobs done. ruff as guts but works.
BTW - i also have a stepper motor controlled cruise valve. I think you need a newer controller for these + o2 sensor hooked up ??
also - what did the landi converter come off ? i have two units that look the same but have different meter jets ? (i dont know what they are but look like some sort of metering/accel pump type control)
cheers
Simon
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 6:34 pm
by F'n_Rover
also - if you are running with a snorkle, you will need to fit a balance line from the back of the converter to the snorkle. These units work on very low pressure differentials. I had a bitch setting up mine and that was due to flexi air duct and bullshit hi flow air filter. balance pipe in all good.
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 6:59 pm
by RaginRover
Thanks boys I figured this was the case, what did they come off well all up I have 3 of them, one came off a jeep and needs a seal kit and the other two I bought off ebay for $20 total.
I will get the numbers off them and post them up, where do I look for the difference between the metering jets ?
Tom
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:00 pm
by RaginRover
popeye wrote:also - if you are running with a snorkle, you will need to fit a balance line from the back of the converter to the snorkle. These units work on very low pressure differentials. I had a bitch setting up mine and that was due to flexi air duct and bullshit hi flow air filter. balance pipe in all good.
That balance pipe is that the little cone shaped fitting that is rather small in the side of the unit.
Tom
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:31 pm
by F'n_Rover
That balance pipe is that the little cone shaped fitting that is rather small in the side of the unit.
nope- on mine its a threaded hole on the back of the unit, ~ 3/4inch. you can see the diaphram through it, vented to atmosphere which is the problem, as the intake tract is often not at outside air pressure. This is the reference for metering.
the meter jet thingy is a brass hex bolt thing with a shaft that goes into the diaphram area. It looks like it controls the rate that the metering diaphram moves. I have no idea what it actually does. it should have a number on it.
i rebuilt mine without using a seal kit, gasket gooed the gaskets, checked the gas input seats? all good just cleaned out the crap inside and checked the diaphrams. soapy water test showed no leaks.
only thing i would suggest is getting a new idle control needle.
good luck but, the gas places are small dick nazis,
but i found that if you wear a set of red overalls, cover your hands in oil and shit, ie look like a grease monkey, they'll think you are part of the club and sell you stuff. worked for me.

Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 8:38 pm
by RaginRover
popeye wrote:That balance pipe is that the little cone shaped fitting that is rather small in the side of the unit.
nope- on mine its a threaded hole on the back of the unit, ~ 3/4inch. you can see the diaphram through it, vented to atmosphere which is the problem, as the intake tract is often not at outside air pressure. This is the reference for metering.
the meter jet thingy is a brass hex bolt thing with a shaft that goes into the diaphram area. It looks like it controls the rate that the metering diaphram moves. I have no idea what it actually does. it should have a number on it.
i rebuilt mine without using a seal kit, gasket gooed the gaskets, checked the gas input seats? all good just cleaned out the crap inside and checked the diaphrams. soapy water test showed no leaks.
only thing i would suggest is getting a new idle control needle.
good luck but, the gas places are small dick nazis,
but i found that if you wear a set of red overalls, cover your hands in oil and shit, ie look like a grease monkey, they'll think you are part of the club and sell you stuff. worked for me.

Thanks mate I will let you know how the swap over goes, one of the converters has the solinoid screwed into the 3/4" hole - I figured it was a vent but was interested to see the solinoid was jamed in there. The guys down at the local gas supplier knows me ok I have conveted a few rangies so they are pretty good but I know whay you mean by the small d*ck nazis
Tom
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 11:11 pm
by RaginRover
Here is a photo of the units
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 11:23 pm
by RaginRover
Another - they both have L44 on the back any other ideas with how to tell sizing for my engine and the other thing is does anyone know what the small barb fitting is just below the converted gas outlet is on the cleaner looking mixer (the one on the right) ?
I will strip them down and make one good one and put it in.
Thanks for the help
Tom
