Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I ask because I have lifted my suspension a lousy 30mm only.

Car is a 4 door '93 manual Discovery 1, with a big block 3.9 V8.

The reason I have only lifted it this far is because when I put 50mm lifted springs in the driveshaft vibrated. When I went back to Dobinsons (who supplied the springs -top folksincidentally) they mentioned a D1 is only good for a 30mm lift before vibration problems start.

Now, as you can lift a D2 and a Rangie 50mm no worries, I wonder what engineering genius was thrown at the D1 to cause this problem?

What I need to figure out is do I get a D2 front prop shaft with the double cardin joint, or do I get an older Rangie shaft which might have wider unis?
Does the D2 run different drive flanges on the diff and t-case, just to make it harder? Does the Rangie have the same differing flanges as well? Does the Rangie have wider unis? Have I bought a freaky orphan? Buggered if I know!

What do you guys think?

By the way, it's only the front one and it ain't due to the prop shaft being out of phase.

whats your front bumpstop height??
i have 145mm and no vibes at all.

you might have lost a balance on the shaft?
ide replace the uni's and get it re balanced and then see what happens.
uni's are bout $30 each from hardie spicers.

Unis are all good. No play or slop.
The shaft itself does not vibrate on rotation, but more from binding. Evidenced by it having zero vibration unless on angle created by 50mm of lift.

People are using D2 front shafts in Defenders etc, so they should fit. I think you may need to get the D2 flange also for the TC. I run 4" lift on the D2 with no vibrations.

I am running a D2 shaft on my 110 and my 90. I paid around $150 for a (new) DISO 2 flange from LR, with seal and nut to made it work on the LT230. It has stopped any noise from the output bearing.

Looks like the D2 shaft is the g-o then.

It'll also be worth getting the DC rebuilt with servicable unis.

Good advice. Will do.

up2nogood wrote:Good advice. Will do.

Dude...give Chris from Giant Racing a call. He can sort out a cardin joint for you - all greasable - and a bigger angle uni at the other end.

Land Rover will want about $800 for a stocko one. Chris can build you one with better material, greasable cardin, bigger angle uni, and longer slip shaft for the same sort of money.

Well worth a call.

His number is... build em tough drive em rough
custom 4wd creations 0438279890.
for all your custom work

Micka

Would that be the Dobbins Engineering one?

Or Dob something. I did have a link to their website, but can't find it. Anyone know it?

up2nogood wrote:Would that be the Dobbins Engineering one?

Or Dob something. I did have a link to their website, but can't find it. Anyone know it?

Nah, mate...

Chris makes his own.

I spoke to Glen about the same thing and it was going to cost closer to $1000. That was using his shaft with a CV on the transfer end. The one thing he did say was that it would be better to release drive to the front end for this design.

Give Chris a call, mate. He is making mine as well. The rear one he made for me is excellent. The splines onthe slip shaft are about 150mm long as opposed to the rover 50mm, and the pipe is 3mm wall compared to the 1.3mm rover one. And the bigger angle Hardy Spicer unis.

All for less than a standard one from rover

Micka

Before you spend to much looking for the problem have a good look
at your uni joints themselfs mine had a bad vibration after a 50mm lift.

after spending $1000 on every thing they thought it was it was a $45 UNI

Nah, it was definitely binding. The angle coming out of the t-case was nasty.