Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ive seen some people with a wealth of knowledge when it comes to paiting, i just got my WB one Tonner chassis back, sandblasted and undercoated.... planning on getting it into a ncie gloss black.

so, can anyone help me out with the best paint, best way to achieve that real gloss look, best techniques

thanks in advance

ben

Is it going to be a working vehicle or a show pony ??

show pony, might do some occasional lugging though. probably a mounted toolbox at most on the tray.

Autobarn sell some Chassis Black paint made by K+H or something similar to that, is that wat i should be using like they mentioned, or is it just classic autobarn, pretending everything they have is the best?

thanks

The best paint to use to my opinion is Acrylic Lacquer, it easy to use, it set with a hard finish, real good, i suggest you add in Hardener to the paint to give it a more chip free finish

use 2 pack. search for post by me or 2k or 2 pack as i have gone into heaps of detail of the different methods, i will look to see if i can find some

cheers bru

edit heres one

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =2+pack+2k

Chasis black is basically a pre-thinned flat to satin black.

Its usually cheap as. Its best use other than a chasis is to dust panels in the prep stage so you can easily find the low spots when sanding up the fill and primer coats. The low spots will still have dark patches in them.

But like Bru has said don't muck about with anything other than 2pak, it shoots very well and bugger all after spray work - no fawking polishing etc. Get the decent masking tape and get it off before the paint goes off. NO $2 for 50 rolls sh!t, it will bite you in the arse.

Julian_4x4 wrote:The best paint to use to my opinion is Acrylic Lacquer, it easy to use, it set with a hard finish, real good, i suggest you add in Hardener to the paint to give it a more chip free finish

Acrylic .......... didnt they paint Noah's ARK with that !




For a work hack and general tidy up then go with the Autopro/autobarn etc chassis black

but ......

For a Show Pony then 2PAK is the ONLY choice

NB:
I hope you removed all the welding spatter from around the welds ...... if not then they'll stand out big time especially with a glossy finish

Kingy

true, but for a body on an a1 rig acrylic is the go as say 8 coats and a good buff gets an orange peel free finish that is near impossible with 2k. for most shows 2k is perfect. i hate the new rodders that care more about finish than the sport itself. gone are the days where you can drive a nice rig with a normal good paint finish without every feminine rodder claiming its 'rough' as it is a sub 10k job and the underbody is not open heart surgery clean. for me its all about expression of design, and v8 blown extravagence

hi
all wilst on the topic of spray painting

im have to respray the roof of my 4B im not sure how to paint it
do i spray a few mist coats then a heavy wet coat or
mist coats then a rub and a clear finish ???
do i need to rub it back a little between coats

i have no idea on the number of coats ive only learnt from work and its spray the primer on then lay one heavy coat of black over the top seams to give a good finish and the guns are suposed to be shit guns and the paints suposed to be shit paints
(btw we spray paint racks and shit for utes)

cheers
elliot

look at the link above. depends on paint. no dust coats ever with new paints. flick all the edges and hard areas first, then progress to the more visable areas like the flats etc. read the back of the tin for more specific info like flash times etc. never use shit paint, your labour is dear as poison so why waste time you couls be sippin stubbies applying and buffing crap. good 2k or nothing in my eyes

yer ive got a super cheap spray gun
was gunna just go get some acrylic primer in a rattle can
and get the tin of acrylic white paint from super cheap as well

i had alook through that post
after reading it i have one question

is there any way to treat rust with out rubbing back to bare metal it is just surface rust atm was thinking that rust converter stuff

cheers
elliot

Julian_4x4 wrote:The best paint to use to my opinion is Acrylic Lacquer, it easy to use, it set with a hard finish, real good, i suggest you add in Hardener to the paint to give it a more chip free finish

DO NOT USE HARDENER IN ACRYLIC LACQUER, it won't work. Acrylic doesn't dry hard and will chip easy also if the exhaust is close to the chassis it may melt.

I'd have a serios look at this stuff [/url]http://www.por15.com/[url]i've seen it and it is awsome you can bash it with hammers and all sorts of s#@t and it won't chip might cost a few bucks but it's money well spent. You should be able to get it from a local automotive paint supplier (not sure who in Melbourne)[/url]

runnin4life wrote:yer ive got a super cheap spray gun
was gunna just go get some acrylic primer in a rattle can
and get the tin of acrylic white paint from super cheap as well

i had alook through that post
after reading it i have one question

is there any way to treat rust with out rubbing back to bare metal it is just surface rust atm was thinking that rust converter stuff

cheers
elliot

i have never used it but been told phosphoric acid is the go, some even use citric acid that you can buy in a box from wollies. i have never used either. don't rub to bare metal as it takes off the green coat and causes far worse rust later. give it a light rub and a good 2k and it will be ok. cans will rust soon as they are more porus.