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Sportage front hubs
Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 6:59 pm
by Sportage
OK every one, I know, "I told you so". One front hub failed to lock.
So.. What manual hubs fit. Zute says they look a lot like early Pajero!
Can I pick up second hand units that will fit and how much should I expect to pay, or does ARB or some one have them off the shelf, how much?
Also after having removed the hub, drained the water and repacked the bearings, I am puzzled how the vacuum units actual work. Does any one know where I can get an exploded view of the hub

Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 2:31 pm
by DamTriton
Warn hubs From Ateco in Australia.
Manual hubs (don't even bother replacing the vacuum operated ones).
Part number: 60247
$360 or so for the set.
Very well known problem with the Vacuum hubs.....
Takes all of 10 mins each side to replace vacuum hubs, and about 20 mins to upgrade from semi-automatic ones.
Try
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=&C=25
for more Kia tech.
Could have a set (manuals) to spare in a couple of months (February, $200)
Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 8:28 pm
by Sportage
Thanks for the post
ARB stock AVM hubs. $227 for a set for the Kia.
Should have them next week and will fit them the following weekend.
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 9:00 pm
by Sportage
The new hubs are fitted and work a treat.
Now lower skirt on bull bar has a dint in it.

Ah well.
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 6:47 am
by DamTriton
Don't throw away your old vacuum hubs. As a fallback, they can be modified to be permanantly engaged (The "Canadian" modification), useful to use if one of your manual hubs throws a wobbly out in the middle of nowhere. (I shattered one of my Warns along the splines into about 6 segments)
First of all carefully spring the circlip from the knuckle side of the hub using a screwdriver (can spring out quite forcibly and cut your fingers, or it can be a stubborn SOB to remove). It is reasonably self explanatory once you have the hub apart, but what you do is to place the spring on the other side of the sliding part of the inner hub so that it pushes in to the (direction of the) knuckle instead of being held out by the spring, and reassemble.
Not recommended as a permanant cure, but will get you out of trouble. It does of course mean that the differential is connected to the axle on the affected side untill you get a new manual hub, so don't expect to get the same fuel economy, it gets worse by 1-2 l/100km, and it will increase the wear and tear on the diff/CV's in the long term.
As for the bullbar, dont think of it as a dent, think of it move lovingly as "Mother Natures Signature".....
"Ricers" write all the specs of their engine, suspension, and brake's etc, on the side of their car. We alllow Mother Nature to write a trip report on the side of ours...