Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey just wondering how much it would cost to get a respray of a single cab ute with steel tray. The car has a little bit of surface rust around a window seal so that would need to be fixed. The car is yellow and I would like to keep it yellow. I am in Brisbane and just keen to see if anybody knows how much and who could do it for me. I don't want it to be ultra smooth as it is a fourby just a nice new respray.

Cheers Nico

Panel beater would be $2000 grand and up for blow over with minimal body work.....

I just finished a Bundy for my brother-in-law and it cost us just under $500 for materials for it to be done right.

Note this was not a pressure pack job and will last quite a few years if looked after

HTH

James

single cab lux max $100 just used rattle can from bunnings

you need way more info chief.

model, pictures or rust, how capable you are of doing xyz, paint quality - i wouldn't use anything but 2k (prob $100 more all up than shite)

a flat colour to spray a cab in 2k

undercoat $100 (inc bog etc)
topcoat $100-200 depending if perl/metallic or not as these need clear as well.

most guys charge $400 spray only off gun finish, good jobs i have seen for $2000 bog,spray,finish no dis/assembly.

the better you prepare it the better job you will get for your money. spraying is the easy part by far. the skill is in the undercoat rubbing and the bog work and of course the masking. bad masking is what makes the difference between a 50% and a 100% job nothing worse than yellow overspray all over the rubbers, chassis etc

cheers bru

Bru - what undercoat and primer/putty do you use with 2k? Acrylic or dedicated 2k undercoat?

You can buy a 2k primer putty kit for about $89 from paintmobile or most auto paint stores which is good enough for a backyard job.

You really shouldn't use acrylic under 2k but you can use 2k under acrylic.

As per the comments the best finish comes from the right preparation.

ISUZUROVER wrote:Bru - what undercoat and primer/putty do you use with 2k? Acrylic or dedicated 2k undercoat?

jtraf is on the money. I use a 2k undercoat although it uses half the amount of hardner (the dear part). you can use acrylic if you are stuck but you will get sink marks and a possibilty of lifting. you can use acrylic on top of 2k primer but i wouldn't as they have different expansion rates and may star crack if a dark colour after 5-10years in the sun.

basically i use spies hecker top coats except for black (theirs is absolute shit - its brown with less colour than michael jackson) so i use the shop brand black.

i use shop brand hardner as it is a lot cheaper and you are better buying smaller quantities at a time as technically once opened it should be used in 36hrs (altough i keep it in the beer fridge and get a few months) it goes lumpy and spray poorly when its started curing. so i rather a lesser brand that is fresher for the same $$$

undercoat is up to you. i would use 2k shop brands but you can get low - high builds. i never use high build as its soft as and chips.

on trucks i normally rub back with 400 grit and sopy (very important) water to cut the old paint and grease / polish. then i bog all needed areas with superflex - a lot finer and a higher resin content than normal bog - can be used in stone chips as well - sinks far less than primer. then i spray the whole panel concentrating on all the bogged areas first then a light overall spray. a rub back to paint with 400, check that i have got all the areas, another full coat of undercoat and a rub with 800 to nearly paint. it comes out patchy which is ok for dark colours but light colours need a flat coat and light rub so the colour is even before topcoat. basically the less primer the better for trucks as it is far more scratch resistant particually where dings and stone chips are concerned.

then the metallic base coat (3 dusted coats in all directions basic spray pattern only, final coat very dusty from all angles gun far away - 2ft, no hardner) and topcoat clear with hardner normal spray pattern 2 or 3 coats. OR flat colour topcoat with hardner and no clear.

cheers bru

bru21 wrote: final coat very dusty from all angles gun far away - 2ft, no hardner) and topcoat clear with hardner normal spray pattern 2 or 3 coats. OR flat colour topcoat with hardner and no clear.

cheers bru

Thanks for the very comprehensive instructions. Why no hardener in the final colour coat though? And what is the difference in appearance and durability with and without the clear coat?

Sorry for all the questions - sprayed enamel and acrylic plenty of times but never 2k - it is the way of the future though so need to learn...

the reason being that they are 2 different systems. the first is a base coat topcoat meaning base usually metallic and topcoat is clear. the clear sets the basecoat and gives better colour as the base is uncured and softens with the topcoat. eg the bluprint on my truck like the ford falcons

the second system is a flat colour system eg, red, black etc. thes have no clear as if they fade they cannot be cut and polished if there is clear in the way. there is no clear on any flat colour factory paint

cheers bru

whats 2k

i think 2k comes from a german word for component like Komponant

2 component system meaning 2 seperate solutions of non linked monomer's that upon combining link to form the solid polymer. They do this as the non linked monomers have a lower molecular weight due to having a smaller chain length and are therefore lower viscosity and are able to be sprayed. That is why 2k is so good as it is 80% odd paint whereas other systems like acrylic 1 pack are 95% non paint as more than 5% acrylic will not dissolve in thinners

What you learn hey....... thanks for that bru

In lamens i would say that 2k is 2pack!

i was not game to ask again what 2k was.

if youre not _that_ fussed on the finish, have a talk to an industrial spraypainter.

they can get hold of far more wear-resistant products than the usual auto paint, and its generally cheaper.

personally ive had plenty of success with epoxy zinc phosphate primer and a polyurethane topcoat. budget $400-$600 and youre on your way.

just remember its the prep that makes a good finished product, and you cant go wrong.

munga wrote:if youre not _that_ fussed on the finish, have a talk to an industrial spraypainter.

they can get hold of far more wear-resistant products than the usual auto paint, and its generally cheaper.

personally ive had plenty of success with epoxy zinc phosphate primer and a polyurethane topcoat. budget $400-$600 and youre on your way.

just remember its the prep that makes a good finished product, and you cant go wrong.

You have to be careful with industrial paints - they may be far more wear resistant, but they are not usually UV resistant/stabilised, so the fade VERY quickly. Found that out the hard way and had to repaint less than a year later with auto paint.