Outer Limits 4x4 Board

bought the old man a secondhand mig for christmas
need to get him an instruction manual for it.
i would teach him but we all know you can't teach the old man shite.
the mig is a CIG 210E 240v
tried boc, they're not interested
tried the pornnet
need help
david

It will be a bit hard to find as the 210 is an old model (great welder though) I have a 220 which is the newer version of the old 210.
I sell CIG migs at my work I will look into it for ya.
Paul.

try ringing black woods they always seem to help me

has anyone got the new WIA 175 amp mig and what do yuo think of it ? i have the 150's and thinking of upgrading to it ans the 150 has been great , but need a little more .

Xtremitys wrote:has anyone got the new WIA 175 amp mig and what do yuo think of it ? i have the 150's and thinking of upgrading to it ans the 150 has been great , but need a little more .

WIA and miller i think are one of the best.cig are crap.
this is what i use...a real welder not a toy.
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/deltaweld_302/

ill aggree to that cig are a crap machine, can't beat the old kempi's at work or the two new BOC 420R's their great

ESAB's used to an awesome machine , not sure what they are like now as they are assembled in India or somewhere now . they had or have great welding charateristics especially for ally .

Xtremitys wrote:ESAB's used to an awesome machine , not sure what they are like now as they are assembled in India or somewhere now . they had or have great welding charateristics especially for ally .

i know they make very good rods and wire

We have 2 CIGS, awsome welders and some other piece of crap. Where is the best place to get well priced CIG's from. Looking at a 400.

LudaCris

A few years on I still cannot fault my UNIMIG 240. cost $1300 with 15kg's of wire, regs included. I have used 5 x 5kg s/steel rolls (normally 1 roll continious welding, building up mixer blades), on my 5th or 6th 15kg steel wire, never replaced anything except shrouds and contact tips. I could not recommend a better welder for home / light ind use. half the price of a boc and all the parts are always available.

You're all a pack of "Girly boys" "Real" precision welders just use Tig welding. None of this point and pull the trigger bulltish

Regards Andrew. (and just in case you hadn't guessed, A Tig welder)

and guess where he Andrew lives - out where the cow's have big turds and the grass grows green on the other side ! are you going to Tig and exhaust together , replace a rusted floor well with a tig . The only thing Tigs are good for is quality welds but are slow as fuck- someone obviously has alot of time on their hands with them cows.

enough of this boring topic , the guy who posted this thread has already got a mig - so problem solved !

Xtremitys wrote:and guess where he Andrew lives - out where the cow's have big turds and the grass grows green on the other side ! are you going to Tig and exhaust together , replace a rusted floor well with a tig . The only thing Tigs are good for is quality welds but are slow as *****- someone obviously has alot of time on their hands with them cows.

enough of this boring topic , the guy who posted this thread has already got a mig - so problem solved !

Hmmm, now that you mention it I do have to weld an exhaust together tomorrow, a set of headers for a sprintcar customer

The only thing Tigs are good for is quality welds

You got that part right

awill4x4 wrote:You're all a pack of "Girly boys" "Real" precision welders just use Tig welding. None of this point and pull the trigger bulltish

Regards Andrew. (and just in case you hadn't guessed, A Tig welder)

are you going to
tig weld a 50mm butt weld?

suzy wrote:

awill4x4 wrote:You're all a pack of "Girly boys" "Real" precision welders just use Tig welding. None of this point and pull the trigger bulltish

Regards Andrew. (and just in case you hadn't guessed, A Tig welder)

are you going to
tig weld a 50mm butt weld?

Well, Ok if you really want me to I'll do the important part "the root run" and leave you plebs to fill the rest. Then I'll go back to my Chrome/Moly, Stainless, Aluminium, Inconel and Titanium welding.
Andrew quickly ducks for cover

awill4x4 wrote:You're all a pack of "Girly boys" "Real" precision welders just use Tig welding. None of this point and pull the trigger bulltish

Regards Andrew. (and just in case you hadn't guessed, A Tig welder)

I have a tig as well - an old cig weld transtig 180 ac/dc H/F start. bottom phases caught alight, find it hard to justify $600 for a rewind. Did ally nicely though. What tip size do you us for 1-2mm s/steel. I have used a 1.6 and i think its too small, gets consumed pretty quick (no i am not contaminating it). do you use dc + or -. and is argoshield 40 ok, or is a specialist s/steel gas better. I use 40 in the mig and its sweet on s/s

Tig is so much faster on headers than a mig its just not funny. mig is like a sledgy for panel pins. You need to port the inside then dress the outside, tig has that factory quality buff and leave flair

cheers bru

Hang about, I just remembered, we do have a good use for our Mig machine. It makes a great bench top Oh, and we also have a use for the 0.9 LW1 and Stainless mig wire and 1.2 aluminium wire. We cut them into short lengths and use them to weld the 0.9 and 1.2 wall thickness Moly and Stainless and 1.6 thick Aluminium tube we use.
Seriously though, I know Mig has it's uses but when your doing work as fine and intricate as what we do and have been Tig welding for about 12 years or more you just don't want to use the Mig.
Hell, at work we even Tig weld our benches frames together, I hate weld spatter.
Regards Andrew.

awill4x4 wrote:Hang about, I just remembered, we do have a good use for our Mig machine. It makes a great bench top Oh, and we also have a use for the 0.9 LW1 and Stainless mig wire and 1.2 aluminium wire. We cut them into short lengths and use them to weld the 0.9 and 1.2 wall thickness Moly and Stainless and 1.6 thick Aluminium tube we use.
Seriously though, I know Mig has it's uses but when your doing work as fine and intricate as what we do and have been Tig welding for about 12 years or more you just don't want to use the Mig.
Hell, at work we even Tig weld our benches frames together, I hate weld spatter.
Regards Andrew.

teach me oh great one..

answer me oh great one

ford against holden yet again or was thast jeep against ....

have fun with your Tigs, i'm happy with my mig , got to weld up some steel beams at work this week , make a temporary spray booth for my project Jeep , make a few engine and gearbox carts so i can push them around with ease , etc . Will leave the Tig welding up to someone who has the time and patience- good luck Tiggers !

bru21 wrote: I have a tig as well - an old cig weld transtig 180 ac/dc H/F start. bottom phases caught alight, find it hard to justify $600 for a rewind. Did ally nicely though. What tip size do you us for 1-2mm s/steel. I have used a 1.6 and i think its too small, gets consumed pretty quick (no i am not contaminating it). do you use dc + or -. and is argoshield 40 ok, or is a specialist s/steel gas better. I use 40 in the mig and its sweet on s/s

Tig is so much faster on headers than a mig its just not funny. mig is like a sledgy for panel pins. You need to port the inside then dress the outside, tig has that factory quality buff and leave flair

cheers bru

Bru, on that thickness steel I recommend 1.6 Thoriated (red tip) or Lanthanated (black tip) electrodes. You can go up to 2.4mm electrodes if you have them, I just get my best results on thin tube with 1.6mm ground to a point
Also do yourself a favour and get a "gas lens" assembly. It gives a much better gas coverage than the standard ceramics. Check out http://www.welding.com.au/PDFC/CAT2005JUNE-TT.PDF it gives a pretty good schematic on page 2 in comparison to the standard collet/ceramic assembly. I use gas lenses on most things apart from aluminium and Magnesium castings as these can choke up the stainless screen on the gas lens collet. As a rule a gas lens allows you to extend your electrode the diameter of the nozzle, eg on my 19mm Titanium nozzle I can stick out the tungsten 19 to 20 mm and still get good gas coverage.
For Steel,Stainless,Titanium,Inconel only use with the torch on DC negative, this directs approx 70% of the heat to the workpiece and 30% to the torch. If it's reversed then you WILL melt tungstens as soon as you strike an arc.
As for gas we only use pure welding grade Argon and nothing else. The Argoshield mixtures aren't really suited to Tig welding with the exeption of either 80T or 81T which are a mixture of Argon and Helium. The Helium allows the arc to carry a greater amperage than Argon by itself but it's very expensive. We used to use the 75%Helium25%Argon bottles and feed it through a Y piece connected to another Argon bottle to the torch to get roughly a 25% Helium/75% Argon mix for heavy aluminium sections.
Another thing for you to try when tigging exhaust tube is to use stainless 0.9 or 1.0 mig wire to weld the steel tubes we are getting excellent results this way.
Regards Andrew.

Hi all...Awill4x4 said>>Another thing for you to try when tigging exhaust tube is to use stainless 0.9 or 1.0 mig wire to weld the steel tubes we are getting excellent results this way.<<

Ive been a contract T.I.G.welder for close to 20yrs now,mainly specializing in stainless steel xray quality welding..Using stainless wire on mildsteel how does the weld turn out like on the inside without purging??or do you you purge the pipe when welding??.

every welder has it's advantages,Tig(GTAW) is a nice weld but you ain't gunna weld an 86 metre ally ferry up with one.
the industry i'm in only use's tig for pipe.the steel we mainly use is bissalloy and technically we don't use mig,we use FCAW.(Flux cored arc welding)But if we go on site we would use a stick(MMAW)because of wind and portabilty of a stick.
each to there own

mickbeny wrote:Hi all...Awill4x4 said>>Another thing for you to try when tigging exhaust tube is to use stainless 0.9 or 1.0 mig wire to weld the steel tubes we are getting excellent results this way.<<

Ive been a contract T.I.G.welder for close to 20yrs now,mainly specializing in stainless steel xray quality welding..Using stainless wire on mildsteel how does the weld turn out like on the inside without purging??or do you you purge the pipe when welding??.

Mickbeny, let's face it we're not welding pressure vessels or food grade tubing for this application. We've found that the quality of exhaust tube (steel) supplied by most manufacturers is of a generally poor grade of steel and is prone to bubbling in the weld pool while welding with steel wire. The additional deoxydising of the stainless wire settles the weld pool down considerably and makes for a better product. The internal finish doesn't get that "sugar" look of oxidised stainless either.We don't think it necessary for purge welding on these headers but if it were a full stainless system it would be advisable to purge weld.
As a personal preference, I like to pulse weld which gives a better presentation and keeps the heat input down as well while welding.
What type of Tig machine do you use Mickbeny? I'm a big fan of the inverter Tigs and my own personal machine is an OTC AVP 300 amp hybrid wave twin inverter machine and it's the best machine I've ever used. I've also used Kemmpi, Miller, BOC and Lincoln AC/DC 200 amp 240 Volt inverters and my preference in this bunch is the Kemppi with the full feature display board.
As a fellow "tigger" you may well be interested in this guy "Engloid's" site, absolutely fabulous welding on cutting edge materials.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/engloid/w ... kpics.html
Regards Andrew.

awill4x4 wrote:

mickbeny wrote:Hi all...Awill4x4 said>>Another thing for you to try when tigging exhaust tube is to use stainless 0.9 or 1.0 mig wire to weld the steel tubes we are getting excellent results this way.<<

Ive been a contract T.I.G.welder for close to 20yrs now,mainly specializing in stainless steel xray quality welding..Using stainless wire on mildsteel how does the weld turn out like on the inside without purging??or do you you purge the pipe when welding??.

Mickbeny, let's face it we're not welding pressure vessels or food grade tubing for this application. We've found that the quality of exhaust tube (steel) supplied by most manufacturers is of a generally poor grade of steel and is prone to bubbling in the weld pool while welding with steel wire. The additional deoxydising of the stainless wire settles the weld pool down considerably and makes for a better product. The internal finish doesn't get that "sugar" look of oxidised stainless either.We don't think it necessary for purge welding on these headers but if it were a full stainless system it would be advisable to purge weld.
As a personal preference, I like to pulse weld which gives a better presentation and keeps the heat input down as well while welding.
What type of Tig machine do you use Mickbeny? I'm a big fan of the inverter Tigs and my own personal machine is an OTC AVP 300 amp hybrid wave twin inverter machine and it's the best machine I've ever used. I've also used Kemmpi, Miller, BOC and Lincoln AC/DC 200 amp 240 Volt inverters and my preference in this bunch is the Kemppi with the full feature display board.
As a fellow "tigger" you may well be interested in this guy "Engloid's" site, absolutely fabulous welding on cutting edge materials.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/engloid/w ... kpics.html
Regards Andrew.

did anyone else get a techno chubby reading this thread so far?

awill4x4 wrote:

mickbeny wrote: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/engloid/w ... kpics.html
Regards Andrew.

Thats some bloody good welding.


Sorry to hijack this thread but I thought I would ask the experts....

Are those inverter welders on eBay any good?
e.g. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/INVERTER-WELDER- ... dZViewItem

I have just welded up a frame with a small stick welder and, well, lets just say I used a lot of hammercoat after...

Grazza, I really don't know enough about them. It's almost certainly going to be a case of "you get what you pay for". The machines I mentioned previously are tried and tested and are very good quality but for a fully featured AC/DC inverter Tig with pulse features and of a known quality they basically start at $4000 and keep going up from there. The Kemppi Mastertig 200 amp inverter AC/DC that I like is just over $5000 and I can't justify buying another Tig when my one at work will do everything it can do and then some more. I just like the idea of having a portable Tig I could take "onsite" if needs be.
Regards Andrew.

mate thanks for the answers. i habe used 1.6 thoriated for s/steel. i made a few lids out of 1.6mm s/steel 400mm round with 1" edges welded on and got minour buckeling. how often do you weld and how long do you wait betwen welds to stop buckles I cannot remember dc+ or - as it was a few years back. the ally is easy if clean on a/c but i had problems with anodizing and other crap. I was just messing around welding step ladders seams etc to practice. a good clean wire bruch and a scrub should have been done

I did a few oil lines outta 11/2" steam pipe and its pure joy, no filler rods.

all argoshield 40. I must get another gas.

do you think a $600 rewind on my transtig 180 or a new $1k odd inverter like the boc or trade tools 140A ones? Mine is a/c / d/c. won't be something i will jump into but might be next on the tool after the wallet plasma wounds heal. I have tested a kempi at a trade expo, they are beautiful especiall when pre tuned by the tech

Bru, welding anodised aluminium is a real bitch, there is a technique called "push" welding where the arc basically pushes the anodising aside it's critical with regard to the AC balance of the machine and you basically hit the weld joint hard with a lot of amperage until the weld pool just forms and fill with filler wire then stop and allow to freeze then do it again and again until the weld is finished. I've tried it but I haven't got the hang of it yet so I just grind off the anodising and then weld. As for your lids buckling, try to keep the heat input down as low as possible and stagger your welds. Weld 1.5 or 2 inches then stop & rotate the lid 180 degrees and do the same then 90 degrees and the same then 180 degrees and the same. You now have 4 welds opposite each other then repeat what you've done running into the welds you've done previously until the lid is finished. If your lucky the lid won't buckle but stainless is a bugger for distortion at the best of times.
I think it's worth fixing your Transtig 180 they're a good honest machine in fact it's the 1st Tig I bought. You'll get a lot more than $600 for it if you go to sell it. If you need the AC for aluminium your going to pay a LOT more than that for an inverter AC/DC machine. I like the inverters but they are pricey but they do spectacular things now if your prepared to pay the money.
Regards Andrew.

Hi all...awil4x4,I find it quite interesting that using stainless wire on low grade CS tubing actually makes for a better weld,i would never have thought that.I will keep it in mind if i ever weld exhaust pipe.

To be quite honest,ive never used a pulse machine to weld.But i have tested a plulse machine out and it was excellent.If i had the fortune to use these modern machines im sure my welds would move up a step in looks quality,or maybee a little less times cleaning/sharpening tugsten,LOL.

Ive never used a Kemppi,but all the specialized welders that i know of or met,all give the Kemppi a huge wrap.If they say they are the best,i take it as gospel,LOL.Ive used alot of Millers and Lincolns and ive like the Millers better,but all the machines ive used have never been the latest in technologies.
My personel machine is an Esaab Caddy 140,its a little ripper and its done litterally 100s of 1000s of hours and never missed a beat.My old man has a CIG TIG machine ac/dc HF[dunno what model it is]Its a nice machine to use too.

My oppinion on buying a machine is stick with tha big names like Lincoln, Miller,Kemppi,Esaab ect and you shouldnt go wrong,and yes,the more you pay the better you get...But at the end of the day,you can either weld or you cant.and if you cant,the quality of the machine aint going to help you none..MIG is easiest and probably best allrounder for the home enthusiest.

I checked out Egloids site out,he is definately a gun.Ive bassically done same similar jobs and materials.