Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys, was wondering how to figure out the static load reduction on shockies when you move them closer to the center of the axel, and wat are some ideas to compensate for the loss in control over spring rebound? oh im useing a 339-690 (round about mesurement) efs gq patrol shock

TYLER wrote:hey guys, was wondering how to figure out the static load reduction on shockies when you move them closer to the center of the axel, and wat are some ideas to compensate for the loss in control over spring rebound? oh im useing a 339-690 (round about mesurement) efs gq patrol shock

Can’t know the specific answer to your question

But when I moved my shocks in i got some adjustable that way I can compensate at the turn of a dial.

Eric

PICS WORK JUST CLICK the black box

scout392 wrote:
But when I moved my shocks in i got some adjustable that way I can compensate at the turn of a dial.

Eric

PICS WORK JUST CLICK the black box

What sort of shocks are those?? How long can you get them and how much $$ am i going to part with?? They look a little tougher than the rancho adjustables

Look very BLING

What you need to work out is the change in damping due to the decreased shock movement for the same amount of spring compression.

e.g.

Assume you originally had vertically mounted shocks (move the same amount as the springs). So when the spring is compressed 3" the shock is compressed 3".

If you them angle the shocks in you need to use pythagoras's theorem C=sqrt(A^2+B^2) where C, A and B are the hypotenuse, opposite and adjacent sides of a right angle triangle respectively, to work out how much their damping is reduced.

If you draw a vertical line where the shock used to be, then a horizontal line throughthat line to the top eye of the shock, then finally a third line along the shock direction until it meets the vertical line - you now have the triangle you need.

Put in some reasonable dimensions for your setup, and work out the length of C - the hypotenuse (where the shock is). Then reduce the length of the vertical line by a fixed amount - say 3", keep the horizontal the same, and re-calculate C. Previously your shock would have moved 3" for 3" of spring movement, now it moves by the difference in C instead, which will probably be in the order of 0.5-0.75 times the spring movement - depending on angle.

Note that the damping ability of a shock is proportional to how quickly it moves. Your shock will now be moving slower as it is covering less distance, so the actual reduction in damping will be even more than calculated by the above method - another 10% would be a rough guess.

benhl wrote:

scout392 wrote:
But when I moved my shocks in i got some adjustable that way I can compensate at the turn of a dial.

Eric

PICS WORK JUST CLICK the black box

What sort of shocks are those?? How long can you get them and how much $$ am i going to part with?? They look a little tougher than the rancho adjustables

Explorer Pro Comp MX6 monotube adjustable shock absorber

Mine rears about COMP14.000 EXT22.625 TRAV8.625
Fronts are about COMP15.250 EXT25.250 TRAV10.000

About $700 a set of 4 with shock boots to match 4x4

6 way adjustable upside down set up.

Eric

PS scout STILL not on the road so i have not tested this set up

cheers for the maths on that, so would using a heavier shock compansate for the loss in control EG a shock like a gq patrol shock insted of a hilux shock, reasion for askin is because ive got a hevy set of shock on er and i would think it would smooth out the ride!

General rule of thumb is to up the shock in compression AND rebound [not an adjustable shock, it only does one of the 2] in percentage by the amount of degrees you move the shock, so if you layed the shock over at 45 deg, then you would up the compression/rebound by 45% to begin with.

oh ok, but wat if they are on a 66.5 drgree slope and moved inward about 300mm?same rule applies?

TYLER wrote:oh ok, but wat if they are on a 66.5 drgree slope and moved inward about 300mm?same rule applies?

If you calculate the difference by the method I mentioned above, then you need to increase the compression and rebound of the shock by the difference in travel, plus about 10%.

So for example - if your shock only travels 50% of the distance that the factory shock would travel for the same wheel movement, then you need a shock with about 220% the damping of the original.

oh cheers, i just did a rough calculation and figured out to about 255%, cheers for the help mate

If you are interested in getting a set of those Procomp MX6's just send me a pm 'EDIT' but there is only a 20% variance of adjustment so you would need to get the valving perfect to start with so it defeats the purpose, you may as well get the es 9000's Procomps.

I hate tough dog for their leaking a breaking probs but they have a good warranty. They might be your best bet for what you want.

What I think you should do is set the rear up to take 2 shocks on each corner.

Shane