Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Slip yoke Eliminator? Are there ways around having to purchase one? Could someone explain to me what it achieves exactly?


Cheers for any TECH SUPPORT

Thankyou

why would you want to get around having one is my question
it helps keep your driveline as flat as possible reducing stress on vital parts.(sorry not specific enough but I know what Im trying to say hehe)
the big price up front is worth it if your going over a 2 inch lift.

go to www.ausjeepoffroad.com and do a search. lots of information there about it. alot of for and against stuff to help you make a educated mistake.

Since posting, i been enlightened upon the actual fact behind the conversion. Plus the reason behind jeeps decision to not install the yoke in the prop, but in the tranny.

Reason i dont want one is the cost, if there are simplified options that are as effective? I would like to know....But it seems to be the only way.

35's are the benchmark tyre for Challenge events in the UK. We need to get the TJ up on a set of these.

Its going to get costly...

JustEmptyEveryPocket
learn it. live it and accept it :p

Mudman,

If the funds are tight look at a Rubicon Express Light duty (also called a cut&tap).
Although not as strong as the heavy duty or the SUper shorties, they still fix the stupid factory design and thus are s SIGNIFICANT step up from stock.....

you could do 3.5 inches of coil lift without the SYE. BUT this is ncluding a t-cace spacer kit which will mean the the guts of your car is not raised in proportion to the lift. Then on top of that you can get a 2"body lift for roughly 5.5 inches, also get a 1" motor mount lift to straighten out the driveline. This will clear 35's but with rubbing on flares and posibly on the inner fender wall up front. (bumpstops can be adjusted to fix that)

i reccomend getting the SYE though cause the stock rear output shaft / rear drive shaft setup will not like turning 35's
secondly you start cutting up the panel work.

IMHO you always do the SYE conversion if you plan to wheel hard, regardless of the lift. Was one of the first mods I did.

I have done a few of these kits & like the way it saves on shaft room & gives you a better angle to work with. Here in Alaska we have some rather tall Jeeps on anything from 33's-38's.

ODD BALL wrote:I have done a few of these kits & like the way it saves on shaft room & gives you a better angle to work with. Here in Alaska we have some rather tall Jeeps on anything from 33's-38's.

i guess the junk-yard available hi-pinion dana 44/60's help.

stu wrote:

ODD BALL wrote:I have done a few of these kits & like the way it saves on shaft room & gives you a better angle to work with. Here in Alaska we have some rather tall Jeeps on anything from 33's-38's.

i guess the junk-yard available hi-pinion dana 44/60's help.

The TJ in the pic is sporting a Ford High Pinion Dana 44 up front & a GM 14 bolt full floater in the rear. Both axles are full width & have been holding up well. I built the front diff with 5.13's & a ARB while the rear diff has 5.13's & a Detroit locker. The rear axle would not be my choice if you like to move fast while on a trip/off-road due to the weight! It's a PIG!

Wooders wrote:Hello...Hello....Hello
Echo...Echo....Echo...

How the heck do I delete the extras? I was trying to add another pic of the Jeep & did not know it was doing all those posts.

Fixed for ya.
Jezz I think that's the first time I've used my "mod -powers" here

Wooders wrote:Fixed for ya.
Jezz I think that's the first time I've used my "mod -powers" here

Thanks.

sorry new to the jeep scene,

how much is a SYE?

Last time i enquired they were around $600 for an Advanced Adapters HD SYE. However that was a while ago so the price may have changed???