Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am considering to install a locker on my GQ td42 lwb. I am wondering should I get a Front locker or rear locker first. As if I get a rear one, it may go better charging uphill as most of weight of whole car is at the back. But I waste the LSD.
If I get the F Locker, i can keep the LSD but it may still can't grip as good as the rear.


Any opinion would be appreciate please.

the GQ rear LSD is a good strong unit, all you gotta do is lock the front and she will be sweet

front first, then rear

Get some 4.6 or 4.88 crown wheel/pinions and do them at the same time, or you will be forced to kick yourself repeatedly at a later date!

what price did u guys get ur airlockers for?

gotta agree with BJ, the lsd is like half a locker so if you add a front airlocker, you'll have 1 1/2 lockers.
then fit the rear airlocker later.

[

Anyway do the front diff first as your LSD is still good and does work unlike some other scrottiless car maker.......

If I get deleted do I get a PM for why?

Why not swap the LSD to the front and put the Locker in the rear? For a little more cost (an hour labour?) you have the ARB where it can do more good, and the LSD in the front which would be a little easier on the CVs.

My $0.02

Ben

2Car

You'd have a strange handling beast with an LSD on the front.

2car gqs have different front and rear diffs unlike us gifted types

the front has a HP equivalent which is a little smaller in size than the rear

I had an arb airlocker in the front of my gq for ages,gave it heaps,very rarely had to get towed out.Put one in the front first and later on u can put one in the rear.

2car wrote:Why not swap the LSD to the front and put the Locker in the rear? For a little more cost (an hour labour?) you have the ARB where it can do more good, and the LSD in the front which would be a little easier on the CVs.

My $0.02

Ben

poke your head under a gq and you will see why they dont

put the locker in the front and get the limo tightend up about 20 thou,works as good as a locker,i done mine and i love it,havent worried about the back......try it is easy to do

Bretto

In the front is the way to go, you'll find the front tyres do more than what you think, and like everyone else said you've got a good LSD in the rear, get it shimmed up and its nearly as good as a locker (note NEARLY)

this may sound stupid though , lock both diff by welding them together
on the good side it's only a 10 dollar job

Julian_4x4 wrote:this may sound stupid though , lock both diff by welding them together
on the good side it's only a 10 dollar job

Yeh thats all i run in the rear, works well.

However i think if you can afford a decent locker like the ARB then thats the way to go!

This may be a bit of the topic though, but some readers might think it's an idea.
I have free wheeling hubs on the front at the moment, so if i lock the front myself-(by welding them) and have the hubs on (free), will both wheels on the front be constanly spinning or they're work on their own, though if i have it on (lock) they will be a gem

^^^^^-NO NEED FOR AIR LOCKERS IF THEY WORK

Ok,

Weld the centre and you lock the diff (both axles/wheels turn at the same time).

If you unlock one side the other side will still be fully locked.

If you unlock both sides niether side has any drive, meaning that you are now in two wheel drive.

The ARB will allow you to turn it on and off, when you turn it off the front diff goes back to open centre( meaning you still have drive to the front, but when one tyre loses traction the other will spin, this is back to how it is at the moment).

You will find that most guys run the ARB as it allows them to save there CV's.

When you have the front fully locked and you are standing on the power or turning a sharp turn you WILL bust CV's like there going out of fashion.

To prevent this most guys turn the locker off when they are in that situation, if you weld the front than you would have to hop out all the time.

If you were looking at saving money, Weld the rear (rear hilux will take the abuse from a welded centre) and save up for a ARB for the front.

IF you really want a locker in the front and cant afford a ARB then try a lockright, if not weld it but drive carfully as you are bound to pop CV's

even on a solid front axle

You got to be joking, but they are dangerous though if you do that

YES SOLID AXLE

NO i'm not joking

Why is it dangerous

You have lost me

JULIAN

my first locker was a welded, front, my second was a ARB rear

then i welded the rear and put the arb in the front, ive never really been happy with it


weld one or both of your diffs and see what you think!! 8)

If you can, slap the LSD in the front, and the ARB in the back. When on read, you'll be in conventional rear wheel drive with an open diff, when off, you'll have the rear spool (ARB locked), and the front LSD, which some argue is far better (and easier on the axle parts) than a full locker.

I think you will get the best of both worlds.

disco dino, the diffs are different front and back,
You can put a rear MQ lsd in the front of a GQ but you have to fit the GQ gears to it and the crown wheel bolt holes are a different size and PCD.

I just checked the ARB website to get to know which lockers to order for my 2002 GU. I hen realised that they are different.

I think I got too used to the Rover with the same Rover diffs front and rear...

Anywaysm then I guess, I would suggest getting the ARB for the front, and wait for an ARB in the rear. (If he can sell the LSD and get 1/2 the price of the rear ARB, then that would be great)

Just out of curiosity, what rear axles do I have on my 2002 GU 2 door ('shorty') with the 4.1 R&P, Disc Brakes, 5 speed manual, and 4.5 Carb???

Thanks, and goodluck...

you sure you got 4.1's, the wagons have 3.9's.
check the aluminium I.D. plate, the last two numbers on "transaxle code" tell you the diff ratio, eg: 46= 4.625, 43= 4.375, 41= 4.111, 39= 3.900, 35=3.545
Not 100% sure but may be the big one [h260]
my transaxle code reads FS5R50B HG41 and i have the 5 speed manual with the small [h233b] diff with 4.111 ratio.
hope that helps.

Great info, Big Red...

I'll crawl under it during the weekend to know exactly what I have, but I am sure I have the 4.1s.

Thanks again...

the aluminium plate is on the firewall on the right hand side, be interesting to see what you have.

Wow your 4.5s are still carburated. Im pretty sure all ours are EFI. We never got the Shorty GU but i know a lot of guys wished we did.
It wouldnt surprise me if it has the large diff fitted. Being delivered to the Middle East.

Shane & all others

I checked my GU 4.5 Petrol 12/98 and it has the transaxle code ending in HH41 with the H260 (big) diff (I am fairly sure of this). My gearbox code is the same, but it does have different ratios in it I think to the Turbo diesel.


All petrol GU in Aust were EFI, GQ's post about 92 were EFI also on the TB42 motors.

All the best

ok...

Crawled under the hood... ...and saw "FS5R50B" for the trans, and axle is HG41. So I guess I have the same set-up as Big Red.

So what is the difference between HG and the HH rear axles? spline count? Ring & Pinion diameter?...

So do I have the same diffs front and rear, I read somewhere that the front diff is a 31 spline count and the rear 33? so is the "big" HH a 38?

Thanks for the info.

Oh, and the engine is a TB45 (S), I am sure it is carburated, since it has a nice growl to it, and I like the idea of having such simplicity where my leatherman can fix almost everything...

Cheers