Outer Limits 4x4 Board

HAY IM JUST HAVING A BIT OF TROUBLE WITH BODI LIFT HELP WOULD BE APRESHIATED THANKS ;)

What sort of problem??? A description may help!!!!!

IS THE SHOUTING IN DESPERATION OR FOR ATTENTION!?

What exactly is giving you trouble? The more info you give the better the answer you'll get.

What part of your bodylift has you stuck champ?

Here's a pic that might help too...

If she's too fat to lift her own body into the car, you shouldn't be taking her out anyway.

NO FAT CHICKS

Zooks aren't powerful enough for that type of thing

[she is that big he cant get her out till he does the chop

hold up there thats my misses your talking about

yeah i've seen her you no what i'm talking about ,brothers are aloud to pick on each others misses

some 1 told me that the body is welded on in places is this true its a 88 modle

someones been telling u fibs.

the studs are welded to the body in 6 positions the others are bolts.

cheers

if shes an 88 model u need sum of this....

IS IT A HARD JOB TO PUT THEM IN AND WEAR IT IS WELDED WOT DO U PUT IN THE GAPs wear u cut the weldes sory about the uper case writing computer playing up thanks for advice

Have a search, plenty of info out there. either build up a kit or buy a kit from a 4x4 shop.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... t=bodylift

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... t=bodylift

cheers

Nic

it shouldnt be welded anywhere. no it not hard to put the spacers in.

bring your 4x4 over and i'll have a look and see how much work is involved i should be able to get the lift blocks made up for you as well i think i read some where that the lift blocks need to have a thread at each end so you can bolt in from the top and bottom not sure if this is true or not any little tips that anyone has would be great

DAWSO 4x4 wrote:bring your 4x4 over and i'll have a look and see how much work is involved i should be able to get the lift blocks made up for you as well i think i read some where that the lift blocks need to have a thread at each end so you can bolt in from the top and bottom not sure if this is true or not any little tips that anyone has would be great

it is just at the back behind the seats there is a bolt on each side which u cant get out so u need to thread the blocks to go in here u simply screw the block onto the old body bolt then screw a new bolt from the bottom of the chassie

threded body blocks freak me out. definatly not the nice way of doing a bodylift as you will probably have to cut the studs shorter. shorter studs cant be as strong. the nicer more profesional way of doing it is to get some really fat bolts. drill and tap the inside of them. then you can just bolt up from the bottom. no tapping of the blocks and no cutting of the studs.

Or you dont thread at all and take the seats out and all the carpet and then cut sections of the floor out where the head of the studs are and then drill out the old studs by drilling the head off. New long 10mm 8.8 bolts to replace the old. Tack the head with a thick washer to the body to make a new stud and tig weld the sections of floor back on and cover the mess with your carpet or paint. Long process but the right way to do a good STRONG job.

Don't forget to cover anything flammable in the car with a wet rag or bit of tin before grinding and weldin the #$%^ out of your interior example the roof lining and the door skins and dash.

tinyterror wrote:Or you dont thread at all and take the seats out and all the carpet and then cut sections of the floor out where the head of the studs are and then drill out the old studs by drilling the head off. New long 10mm 8.8 bolts to replace the old. Tack the head with a thick washer to the body to make a new stud and tig weld the sections of floor back on and cover the mess with your carpet or paint. Long process but the right way to do a good STRONG job.

holy moly

all that just for a 2" BL? it seems like too much work for me.

get HDPE (plastic blocks), cut to size, 2", get some steel bar, drill out and tap for the stud, put block on old stud, screw on drilled and tapped crush tube, and lower body, screw new bolt up from under.

this would help heaps more if some one had pics

The internally threaded bolt (16mm OD) is the only way I have seen these done acceptably, but does involve machining etc.
The only modification it requires to the car is drilling out of the big steel washers on the bottom of the body mount bushing.

This way, all of the factory rubbers, stud, washers etc all work exactly the way the manufacturer intended. (and the car can go back to stock at any time)

The bolt takes the place of the small steel sleeve that sits through the rubber. The block sits between all the stock rubbers and the body.

The first one I built was about 6 years ago and it still in the car, never having had a problem. I have done about 10 since. They have passed engineers.

Any method involving cutting the stud, threading the stud, body blocks made from plastic, blocks threaded onto the stud, RHS etcetc are all junk IMHO and I have seen a commercially sold sierra body lift tear apart and the body start coming off the car (!)

I don't make the lifts commercially so sorry I can't help any one, but be very careful with what is available and think the work through.

I beleive forestf*cker on this board posted some very pretty photos of his design, which is the same as mine only CNC'ed from scratch rahter than starting with a cut down bolt.

The same design works on all sierras and vitaras.

Just bought a 2 inch lift kit off rocky-road.com. Consists of 10 two inch spacers, 4 longer bolts , 6 body stud connector bolts and some washers. Just thought i'd post some pics (excuse the quality, took them with my phone)