Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Wondering if anyone has lifted thier transfercase up so that a flat belly plate can be fitted thinking of doing this only problem i can see is that the angle on the jack shaft might be a bit steep could them i supose raise the rear engine mount going to have a look at it after rock crawling the other day a flat skid plate would be nice oh should let you n im running a drum hand brake on the rear of the transfercase

Have u got a bodylift in yours? As if not might be a bit tight underneath if not. A few people have got about 1-2" by using engine mounts and similar under there instead of the poly mounts. should be ok but not sure if that is enough for ur buggie.

U might need a ski slope shape belly slide to go over the drum brake.

cheers

Ski slope is the first idea second was to mount transfercase to the belly plate not sure yet just ideas to bounce of peoples heads

aren't you running hilux diffs with rear park brake? This would mean you can take the factory unit off all together.

If you attach the transfer to the bash plate it would be a PITA to change oil, remove plate and or transfer case.

Maybe one of Roctoys rings to mount the case up higher and more securely with a separate bash plate? This way the plate can be removed for access and servicability.

Got one of the rings thinking of trimming the bottom of the transfercase mounts plating them then putting on a skid plate i put the drum brake on as i prefer it to rear diff hand brake

Mounting to plate would not be a good idea unless u are going to make it out of 10mm or something. my full belly plate is 5mm with angle welded on top and sill gets big bends in it and if the transfer was mounted to it, it would distort the angles of tailshafts. I have lowered the chassie rails by 25mm to take a flat plate.

Just cutting out roiginal mounts on the drivers side replacing with 6mm plate cut into chassis to leave flat then ill raise the drivers side blocks about 10 or 15 mm to clock it will still have a small bump in the bottom but better than it was also gives exhaust some protection belly plate out of 6mm

I have done this. I did it on a WT, sowe had no drum to worry about, but a warning, its a heap of work.

To get a pan to work, you need to lift the transfer a fair way - about 50mm but this will make the rear driveshaft angle pretty steep. The jackshaft will be fine. You will notice that to get all the junk off from under the chassis, the gearbox crossmember has to go, there will be no room for the exhaust between the pan and the passenger side mount.

When we did it, we fitted new tube crossmembers- a new gearbox crossmember and an entirely new crossmember behind the case, which is also the traction bar mount. The case sits on stock mounts but the rubbers have been replaced with urethan isolation mounts.

3mm flat bar was welded under the rails with nuts welded into them. This evens up the bottom with the gussets behind the spring mounts on the WT.

The pan is 10mm HDPE, all held in with 14 10mm countersunk unbrakos.

IMHO, you really want to do this with the body off.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote: The pan is 10mm HDPE

What is this? How has it held up? How much$?

ta

Damo wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote: The pan is 10mm HDPE

What is this? How has it held up? How much$?

ta

Kind of like a big ass plastic chopping board.

Hasn't been out tof the shed yet, so can't comment on durability, but look s like it will be the goods.
Material is 10mm Black High Density Polyethylene sourced from alternative plastics in Melbourne.

We looked at delrin etc type of stuff, but it was either too expensive, too rigid or had to be backed up by another material, spoiling the point- it needed to be easy to work with and one piece- flexible and removable without a hassle.

HPDE can be jigsawed, filed, ground etc.
The piece to do the pan was about $100 (about a sqaure metre)
it is supported with 5 bolts down each rail and four bolts in the centre (off of the new xmembers) so the biggest unsupported span is about 300mm.

It fits spring hanger to spring hanger, with small cut outs for the driveshafts.

we clamp it up at the corners and pull it down withthe bolts so it follows the shape of the chassis tightly - it angles up at both ends along the lin of the chassis.

Steve.