Outer Limits 4x4 Board

after a couple of deeper crossings the other week both me and a mate ended up with badly misfiring cars from water in the dizzy.

we've come up with 2 solutions just bouncing em off people to see what they reckon is best(or have done) trying to avoid siliconing the cap on and funds dont allow for a diesel.

the first one was plumb an air compressor into the dizzy with a switch so its not always running and wont pump any condensation in there, it also means I'd need to invest in a compressor

The other was to run a 'vacuum' line in cab from one side of the cap and plumb the other into the intake to essentially keep a positive pressure in the dizzy. Which i personally think will have more chance of sucking water in.

any thoughts and theories would be great!

Cheers
Simon

what sort of vehicle / motor?

For a 4 cylinder, take a rubber glove (ie dishwashing glove) cut off the finger tips and feed the leads through. Cable tie arm opening around dizzy body and fingers around leads.

If you don't want to go that far, spray a silicone spray liberally over the cap and dizzy body. Should do a reasonable job of keeping the water out, but handling the cap/leads becomes a messy task.

Scott

easy dont drive in deep water, will stuff more than ur dizzy.

I got a breather pipe on my dizzy, up to a high and dry point, like a diff or box breather. Sierra dizzies have a proper point for this.. This stops the water getting sucked in by the cooling effect, unless your rubber bit is missing or perished.

christover

put silicone on the rim of the cap where it contacts the dizzy,that should prove effective so long as the boots on your leads are good.some guys run about 2psi into their dizzies,diffs,etc...with good results.

bruiser - ones a 4.2l petrol patrol, the other is a 3.8l rangey

bazooked - its not always possible to never drive through relatively deep bogholes

There is a compond around that is used in the marine industry it is a form of a jelly that you put around electrical components and dizzys etc.
It looks like grease but is more like vasaline.

I am unsure of what it is called but that may be a good place to start.

Cheers
Simon.

artificial skin-in-a-can from the chemist, and a milk bottle worked on my old mini ;p

INOX is good stuff, too. Similar to RP7 type stuff.
Doesn't conduct electricity, so it doesn't short out like WD 40 type products. Doesn't wash off either.

christover

That's what I like about my Pajero, two screws hold the cap down tight.
But here's a thought. how about one of those air pumps that Geminis ( 80 model I think) had for emissions. Ran off the fan belt. You could use it for positive pressure in the dizzy, diffs, gearboxes etc.
But prob' easier just to apply silicon.

Best thing i ever did to mine was put a breather on it...

lanolin sprays work well, we used to use in the mines on remote pump boxes to help keep the crap out.

also honey tape, use it underground to seal everything electrical, but damn is it messy to handle!

Personally i think the dish washers glove is a good idea..

Spock

How about using some PVC pipe with a thread end. Cut some slots down from the rim through the thread. Place the Pipe over the dizzy, run the leads in the slots and screw the cap on.

I thought about doing this but never tried it.

Eric

The stuff you are after is known as Di-Electric grease. Looks similar to clear silicone sealant, but is soft like grease.
Put a bit around the the base of the dizzy cap as well as a little bit around the plug boots before you put em on the spark plugs or Dizzy cap...

With a "proper" vent and the above treatment I have never had issuse with water in the electricals..

Take a look at my avatar .. I like bogholes ...

Used an old motorbike tyre tubeover the dizzy and cable tide off at the ends.Worked a treat and cost nothing,and re-useable.

Cheers Ian.

i have done a few things to mine:

* silicone dizzy up
* run a compressor into dizzy to put pressure into it
* put the top of a 50 pack cd spindle over the dizzy (fits nice and need to cut a little for leads)
* coil in plastic bag
* spray WD40 around the place
* good genuine nissan leads

and now i hardly ever have a major problem with water. all these little things help but ITS STILL A BLOODY PETROL!!!!!

Just found this thread, sorry its a bit old. Just wondering how you connected the air to the dizzy, did you drill a hole in the dizzy cap or in the body of the dizzy?

I just put a thin layer of thick grease around the lip of the cap, use good leads and rubber caps, and cover the coil terminals in mastic. And I ALWAYS use an old polythene sheet as a blind if the water is over hub deep.

So far I have never had a problem even with some pretty deep crossings. On more than one occasion I have had water entering the air vent at the base of the windscreen and coming out the heater vents. Not really recommended. One day .....

Personal opinion only, but I wouldn't silicone the dizzy, I've seen someone do it and still get water in there, so when it started missing and carrying on they then couldn't pull it apart cos it was stuck together!

The comp truck I navi in runs compressed air through the dizzy and highmount winch motor in one line, so flick one switch and it pressurises the lot.

If you don't have air, WD40 and some Vass around the rim before you put the top on, then it's just maintenance every time you think its gonna get dunked.

Some mud racers use tuppaware containers with a hole cut in the bottom of it, put the dizzy through the hole and put it back on the motor, drill holes in the side of the container and put rubber grommets in them and push the leads through them, keep the lid off the container until you go off road, put it on when you get into the bush... Always worked a treat for us!!!

when my old man had his 4runner he cut up and old push bike tyer and put over it ran the leads up out of it then zip tied it tight at the top
worked really good

i just used silicone on my old lux i can say it worked well as i got bogged in a deep hole with water over the dizzy and still running
got myself out eventually

Rubber gloves.... if you need more than 4 cylinders use more than one glove.

Silicone but let it dry first and then close. Only needs a slight smear, enough to give it a little bit of give for clamping.

Good leads.

Buy a Diesel

One of mine is a petrol and water crossings dont bother the electrics at all.
Never had water in dizzy problems.

It doesn't have a dizzy!

Gotta love sealed coil packs and petrol power

If its a Nissan TB42 dizzy, then it SHOULD have the two factory "O" rings on the inner dizzy cover.
One top ,one bottom. If you dont, GET THEM.
The cap has a breather hole on it which you could easily attach a hose and place the end up higher.
And also the factory Nissan HT leads which have the best sealing boots possible.

I used to apply a bit of electrical grease where I thought might need it.
I personally dont like using it because dust sticks to it and makes it messy.

Rod

Sorry for jackin the thread, but
I was wondering if anyone can tell me where to get the Di-electric grease from?
Is this the same gear that Telstra uses? ie Linesmans grease.
Got a comp on saturday so any help would be good!
I was thinking lotsa shopping bags

Steve.

Cheap compressed air for diffs, winches, gear boxes, transfers etc

Just make sure the pump is out of rearch from water.

-ET 4wd- wrote:Sorry for jackin the thread, but
I was wondering if anyone can tell me where to get the Di-electric grease from?
Is this the same gear that Telstra uses? ie Linesmans grease.
Got a comp on saturday so any help would be good!
I was thinking lotsa shopping bags

Steve.

Dielectric grease is sold in small tubes at Auto barn, Rapeco, Bursons and Ebay.
I have a supply of 5 gram packs if youre local (pm me). Cheers w