Outer Limits 4x4 Board

well i've done another one

Whats the go with them???

Ive got a 350 chev in my patrol, & i bought it & the ring gear was chewed out so i had it replaced, & yesturday gone again, all stuffed!!! & the teeth on starter are fine

Do i get a different type of starter? it currently is 2 long bolt
Are there different teeth setups??? mine is 11inch flywheel

this is annoying

you need a toyota

wtf???
great help

u should be thankful mate i normally charge people for that sort of advice but that ones on the house

it could be that the startor isnt quite setup properly. Some need shims? to space them correctly. I woiuld talk to a GOOD auto sparky about it. It might be worth paying a dollar or to to have the alignment checked. I had a similiar problem and i found out that the snout had a few hairline cracks which meant that once engaged it distrted and caused a PITA.
IMO a hi torque starter would be the go as well. There cheaper of ebay. It mighten help the problem but the standard snout all break, esp on race boats ( so i was told) .

Good luck and let us know how you go. ANd DONT buy a toymota, i did that once and its wasnt any better and the parts were twice as dear.

There is defianatly 2 different Flex plates and 2 different starters but i can not help you identify either. I know the difference is in the teeth count.

cheers guys
i've got the 168t ring gear, sounds like a better get a different starter. or give up 4wding & take up knitting NAH!

my mate just fixed the same problem we tried different starters had the 168 ring gear 150 something is the other. but we got another ring gear and starter what came with shims and told us how to set it up it now starts great no metal filings and it even sound like a it should no more whining so i recomeng getting a new ring gear and good quality start with shims and set ip up or youl just do another ring and dont get those cheap autobarn chrome ones they will jsut chew anyway

Big Red Toy wrote:cheers guys
i've got the 168t ring gear, sounds like a better get a different starter. or give up 4wding & take up knitting NAH!

We can swap. i ahve a sd33t. that'll fix the problem at no cost

should have put a clevo in it with a proper starter. who ever came up with the chev idea sucks nut sacks

Slightly left of centre. Is this common with that engine?


I notice that old 6 cyl ford(XF's) always throw the ring gear..


That is all

Get a ring gear to suit the starter ! ..... better still get a hitorque starter & new ring gear !
Chevs have a fair amount of allignment variation so you may not have the starter "exactly square" in relation to the flywheel..... they can actually be draged off line to a point that the starter when engaged will lock itself onto the ringgear

rotate the angle the otherway and the teeth will barley make contact and this will cause premature wear as in your case.

Question .....
Who fitted the new ringgear for you ???, I ask this as I've seen ppl overheat them and this "softens" the metal to a point that they will wear out real quick !

Kingy

you have mismatched starter and ring gear. When you install teh right starter for the right ringear, you will not have any more issues.

Jes

Big Red Toy wrote:cheers guys
i've got the 168t ring gear, sounds like a better get a different starter. or give up 4wding & take up knitting NAH!

Or maybe take the advice from the "Maccas chick" on Saturday night

Try calling Eagle Auto on 03 9793 5544 they'll be able to help.

sierrajim wrote:

Big Red Toy wrote:cheers guys
i've got the 168t ring gear, sounds like a better get a different starter. or give up 4wding & take up knitting NAH!

Or maybe take the advice from the "Maccas chick" on Saturday night

Try calling Eagle Auto on 03 9793 5544 they'll be able to help.

quiet ya pedophile

All should be sorted by end of next week





Kingy, i got it done at a good place,a clutch shop , not there fault at all.
I'm going to have to get a hi-torque starter, might see james for that

dont get a high tork one, get a " reduction gear starter"

Jes

well its done new ring gear & starter teeth on original starter except had the starter nose changed over cos apparently was the wrong one (new one drives in further), new starter bolts etc...

Had the rear main oil seal changed & now the sump gasket has leaked twice with 2 different sets of gaskets but otherwise its much better

early chevs had a angle like bracket that went from the rear of the starter to the block to stop the starter from moving
hope this may help

I thought only the holdens had the starter brace, not the chevs.
J Top

J Top wrote:I thought only the holdens had the starter brace, not the chevs.
J Top

I had a chev in a hg holden when i was younger (fresh motor) and broke the starter nose cone strait away then got the bracket with the new nose cone never had a problem since
worth looking into

Hamo wrote:

J Top wrote:I thought only the holdens had the starter brace, not the chevs.
J Top

I had a chev in a hg holden when i was younger (fresh motor) and broke the starter nose cone strait away then got the bracket with the new nose cone never had a problem since
worth looking into

thats got merrit, i'm going to keep a close eye on the ring gear, but its the friggin sump gasket which is troubling me now

Big Red Toy wrote:

Hamo wrote:

J Top wrote:I thought only the holdens had the starter brace, not the chevs.
J Top

I had a chev in a hg holden when i was younger (fresh motor) and broke the starter nose cone strait away then got the bracket with the new nose cone never had a problem since
worth looking into

thats got merrit, i'm going to keep a close eye on the ring gear, but its the friggin sump gasket which is troubling me now

This is the bracket that i think you need
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-SMAL ... enameZWDVW
should be able to get one from eagle spare's in dandy

sorry don't know why it came up 3 times