Outer Limits 4x4 Board

can someone give me a step by step guide to bleeding my gq clutch, the piston fell out when i had the tranny out, so it dropped the fluid and i have no idea how to bleed it, ive never done one.
much appreciated

its handy to have a glass jar or bucket , small plastic pipe and i think it was a 7mm spanner,
and a mate who like to work out his legs, listening to ac/dc with a cold one

on the passenger side you will find where the fork comes out of the gear box you should find the slave cylinder and push rod

on opposit end to the push rod you should see a bleeder screw
slide the pip over the tip of bleeder screw,
place other end in jar/ bucket,
top up reservoir , and throught the course of bleeding a must .

with person under car and one person in car begind to pump clutch all way to floor a couple of times , then tell person in car to hold clutch to floor, while person under car lets the bleeder screw loose for a 5-6 second steady count then tighten screw back up

again person in car pump clutch few times then hold to floor while person under car lets bleeder screw loose 5-6 second steady count,

continue this untill person who owns car is happy there is no longer air in the lines:)
simple as my friend

matt

ok, i have no clutch action at all, i think the nipple is blocked because nothing comes out of the nipple, but when i undo it almost completly i comes out the thread, also is there a procedure when doing this as i think i heard someone say you have to bleed the top line first, and can i still bleed with the blocked nipple - any way, i wanna get it finished tonight, hope someone can help.
cheers

if there is no fluid in there at all, you might as well pull the nipple out and clean it out,

your also going to want to bleed the line thats in the top passenger side of the engine bay near your diesel fuel filter, this commonly gets over looked,

this may sound dumb but can you spell it out for me, wo to go, thanks ozi

this may sound dumb but can you spell it out for me, wo to go, thanks ozi

you will need to bled the master cylinder first, then there is a bleader on the joiner block about half way along, just be fore it drops down to the slave cylinder, this will need to be bled next, then bled the slave, clean the nipple out first, when it is working some what you may need to rebled the joiner block bleder to remove the air from the pipe, it is some times easer to hold the clutch in and then crack the bleder untill all air is remove. cheers, Phill

basically you will need to bleed everything in the system 1 at a time.
master cyl, hoses, then finally the clutch.

removing the nipple and cleaning it wont hurt, it has air in the system already

hey the one near the fuel filter is that the one mounted to the same bracket as the fuel filter or the one below the filter
cheers

now, the one mounted on the filter brackets is the one that needs to be bled,

the one below it is the Tee piece from the slave cylinder tot he bleeder listed above,

thats what i can see from having a look just thern,

ozy1 wrote:now, the one mounted on the filter brackets is the one that needs to be bled,

the one below it is the Tee piece from the slave cylinder tot he bleeder listed above,

thats what i can see from having a look just thern,

Make sure you bleed the top one first, then do the one on the slave cylinder 2nd, otherwise you'll be there for a long time, like I was! The top one must be done first from my experience.

Alright, all done, i found that the master cylinder had some crap in it and needed to be cleaned out, the piston was not returning all the way, and also there was an air trap around the juction below the fuel filter had to bleed be undoing the lines and bleeding it that way, all good though, pri*k of a system, and by the way repco dont supply the 1992 on non servo master cylinders any more, but they do sell the rebuild kits for $20