I recently pulled out the old 3F from my FJ73 and installed a fully rebuilt 1HZ with a rebuilt injector pump.
Everythings fine plenty of power ,torque.
Only thing is I havent been able to get right is the oil pressure gauge
The 1HZ and the 3F use the same type of sender unit that screws into the block and I thought it would be as easy as reconnecting the old wiring to the new sender.
Not so it seems. The wire I thought use to go the old sender does nothing . I tried some other left over wiring in case I had the wrong one and that did not work either.
Ive double checked the sender and tried the old good one and that didnt work either.
Ive checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge and it is good.
The only thing I can think of it has something doing with the coil no longer there.
Anyone else have any theories
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1HZ Oil pressure gauge
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
1HZ Oil pressure gauge
1988 FJ 73 LX Lim Ed powered by 1HZ
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
And the final job,well almost if you dont count those 1/2 dozen niggling little jobs that take as much effort as the installation
Aircon is not shown as it was too hard to fit the old compressor so I bought a new one and it all works fine now
Aircon is not shown as it was too hard to fit the old compressor so I bought a new one and it all works fine now
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1988 FJ 73 LX Lim Ed powered by 1HZ
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
Been there, done that (with an 80series though)... all the electricals worked straight away. (except the taco and air/con cause they run off the coil)
If your oil gauge ain´t working its gotta do with a gauge/wiring problem.
When you took the 3f out, did you take your time in labelling all the wires? That way you would have the car looms labeled and then with the 1HZ loom also labelled, its an easy job to connect them together.
Ulises
If your oil gauge ain´t working its gotta do with a gauge/wiring problem.
When you took the 3f out, did you take your time in labelling all the wires? That way you would have the car looms labeled and then with the 1HZ loom also labelled, its an easy job to connect them together.
Ulises
Ulises
www.OzSigns.com - 0400008422
www.OzSigns.com - 0400008422
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 4:39 pm
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BEANZ "Rosco, see if you can isolate the wire harness as the problem. Go back to the factory manuals and see if you can run temporary wires from the sender to the gauge. If you can make the gauge work in this manner, then it was the vehicle's wiring that is the problem. "
Dave everything was working ok before I took the 3F out.
I was hoping to sort it out before I start on the tacho:D
Where does the sender/guage draw its power from??
UDM"Been there, done that (with an 80series though)... all the electricals worked straight away. (except the taco and air/con cause they run off the coil)
If your oil gauge ain´t working its gotta do with a gauge/wiring problem.
When you took the 3f out, did you take your time in labelling all the wires? That way you would have the car looms labeled and then with the 1HZ loom also labelled, its an easy job to connect them together."
I guess the 80 must be different. My aircon just plugged into the old wire and away it went without the coil. I was expecting the tacho not to work.
I didnt need to label it as I knew the wire by its colour and diameter,also there are only 3 wires left and none of them work.
The 3F electrical schematic shows the gauges connected to the coil ,if Im reading it right:rolleyes:.
Another cruiserhead,VT Cruiser(north america) has also done the same swap into his 60 series and has had the same problem from the day he did the swap.
Thanks for the help and if you have some more ideas fire away.
I cant delve into the dash until at least Mon or Tues
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BEANZ "Rosco, see if you can isolate the wire harness as the problem. Go back to the factory manuals and see if you can run temporary wires from the sender to the gauge. If you can make the gauge work in this manner, then it was the vehicle's wiring that is the problem. "
Dave everything was working ok before I took the 3F out.
I was hoping to sort it out before I start on the tacho:D
Where does the sender/guage draw its power from??
UDM"Been there, done that (with an 80series though)... all the electricals worked straight away. (except the taco and air/con cause they run off the coil)
If your oil gauge ain´t working its gotta do with a gauge/wiring problem.
When you took the 3f out, did you take your time in labelling all the wires? That way you would have the car looms labeled and then with the 1HZ loom also labelled, its an easy job to connect them together."
I guess the 80 must be different. My aircon just plugged into the old wire and away it went without the coil. I was expecting the tacho not to work.
I didnt need to label it as I knew the wire by its colour and diameter,also there are only 3 wires left and none of them work.
The 3F electrical schematic shows the gauges connected to the coil ,if Im reading it right:rolleyes:.
Another cruiserhead,VT Cruiser(north america) has also done the same swap into his 60 series and has had the same problem from the day he did the swap.
Thanks for the help and if you have some more ideas fire away.
I cant delve into the dash until at least Mon or Tues
1988 FJ 73 LX Lim Ed powered by 1HZ
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
1995 HZJ75 cab chassis
Rosco, I had a look at the wiring diagram for a 1988. It looks as if the oil press gauge gets its power from the "run" terminal on the ignition key, regardless whether it is a diesel or petrol. The signal from the oil press sensor is carried in a black wire to the gauge.roscoFJ73 wrote:Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 4:39 pm
Dave everything was working ok before I took the 3F out.
I was hoping to sort it out before I start on the tacho:D
Where does the sender/guage draw its power from??
The 3F electrical schematic shows the gauges connected to the coil ,if Im reading it right :rolleyes:.
Have you checked the wire resistance from the sender to the gauge cluster? I am thinking if it was working prior to the engine swap, the wiring could have been damaged during the removal and installation.
Yep
You need to check the continiuity between sender and gauge and if that is good you can earth out the wire at the sender end and the guage should swing to full pressure if that doesn't work the gauge power has been lost somewhere
pretty simple circuit
power on one side of the guage and a variable resistor (preesure sender) on the other connected to earth
Scott
You need to check the continiuity between sender and gauge and if that is good you can earth out the wire at the sender end and the guage should swing to full pressure if that doesn't work the gauge power has been lost somewhere
pretty simple circuit
power on one side of the guage and a variable resistor (preesure sender) on the other connected to earth
Scott
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