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Custom Links
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 9:48 am
by small talk
Gday Rover boys, just a few questions, i am thinking of using the A frame coil setup off the rear of a range rover to coil the rear of my suzuki and want to know what joints i should be using on the chassis end of the stock rangie trailing arms for maximum articulation ??
a) the standard rangie joint
b) the joint on the diff end of the trailing arm
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:04 am
by Slunnie
I'm currently doing the same. I would side step the stock Rover lower links. I've seen too many of them fold up. 3rds productions are now selling Patrol lower bushes AND high carbon rings to press them into for $35ea. Everywhere else charge $35 for the bush only. Then make the link up yourself. A lot of people seem to bend the lower Rover links with that mounting to prevent bindong issues with high flex suspension. You wont have to do that with the round bushes, like whats on the axle end.
These are the bits from 3rd's
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:21 am
by small talk
Just went to 3rds productions website and nothing on the bushes, what would be used for the link itself?? i thort that the rover trailing arm would be tuff enough under a sierra (not a sierra derived buggy).
Brock.
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:35 am
by small talk
Would it make for better flex with the link on the diff end on both ends??
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 11:01 am
by Slunnie
Not sure, they're the ones that the Nissans and 3rds use in their rear ends at both ends and these are very very close to the Landcruiser ones also. The bush is designed to flex sideways by the rubber casting design, whereas the Rover one isn't, making the chassis pin mount twist. In relation to how much it twists in relation to a Jony joint or pin joint..... not sure. It will drop and bump easier though.
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 11:14 am
by small talk
Damo's setup uses the pin style joint but with lenghtend trailing arms, and flexes great.
Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 11:55 am
by takearidewifme
I would avoid rover arms purly because I just broke both of mine.... 1 at the pin end and one at the other... Im making custom arms with a swing joint at the chassis end and standard bushing at diff end... I will be keeping the standard chassis bush and using a grade8 bolt will be bolting a U bracket bought from auotbarn ( leaf spring shackel) there having a GQ bushed trailing arm at the chassis end with a curv in the arm for clearance... this will give the benifit of swing and twist.... failing that use 110 defender arms I think... they have bigger pins that shouldent break under a zook...
Mark
This is my flex.... now you see why my arms broke...lol
Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 6:17 pm
by Micka
The rover style arms are the best for flex. Simple as that.
Just a matter of cranking them to suit the lift and sleeving them for strength.
Micka
Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:17 pm
by Loanrangie
small talk wrote:Damo's setup uses the pin style joint but with lenghtend trailing arms, and flexes great.
He would get more flex if he chucked those poly bushes and used the stock rubber ones.
Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2005 9:28 pm
by GURU
takearidewifme wrote:I would avoid rover arms purly because I just broke both of mine.... 1 at the pin end and one at the other... Im making custom arms with a swing joint at the chassis end and standard bushing at diff end... I will be keeping the standard chassis bush and using a grade8 bolt will be bolting a U bracket bought from auotbarn ( leaf spring shackel) there having a GQ bushed trailing arm at the chassis end with a curv in the arm for clearance... this will give the benifit of swing and twist.... failing that use 110 defender arms I think... they have bigger pins that shouldent break under a zook...
Mark
This is my flex.... now you see why my arms broke...lol
hope your extending your arm length....from the pic the rear diff is steering along way with the arms getting that vertical.
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2005 2:48 pm
by HSV Rangie
these are my rear links.
Custom by me.
40m od 20mm id hollow bar.
threaded in sirt makes them adjustable in lth.
Michael.
Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:36 pm
by Bush65
HSV Rangie wrote:these are my rear links.
Custom by me.
40m od 20mm id hollow bar.
threaded in sirt makes them adjustable in lth.
Michael.
Michael, I take it that the pin for the chassis mount, screws into the hollow bar - that is a great idea.
Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 8:09 pm
by Bush65
Another question about your trailing arms Michael.
With the crank in that position, do they clear the outriggers for the body mounts, or have you packed the bump rubber down to limit the up travel?
Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:35 pm
by HSV Rangie
they clear.
so far they have no issues.
Michael.
Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:10 pm
by Bush65
Thanks Michael.
I need to make some soon, so I might do similar.