Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Currently i have a setup which does the job but isnt really very practical.

2door Rangie with:

3inch springs + 1 3/4 inch coil spring spacers - FRONT
4inch springs - Rear

+ 2 inch body lift..

my problem is that i want to put 4-6inch springs in the front so that my springs dont keep falliing out as i have long procomp shockies.

currently im using zipp ties to keep them retained but i spap them and the spring pops out almost every big outing i have.

does anyone know where i can get 4-6inch springs for Range rover?

We bring Lovell springs into the UK for Rover applications. They have promised to make anything/size we want.

Try Mal Graham at Britswed Motors in Narrabeen, Sydney.

stainless ties?

Does no one do dislocation cones in Oz?

i thought that std 80 series front is 2 inchs higher than the std rover springs. i also was told that 80 series fronts will fit front and rear on rangies. if someone else can back this up you will need 2 pairs of 4" lifted 80 series fronts.
cheers

I thought that I'd heard of people using hose clamps as retainers also.

yep hose clamps do the job very well.... just make sure you put a few on there...

as for the dislocation cones - a spring that is retained will make the vehicle more stable and predictable offroad - ESPECIALLY in off camber situations

I just have 2 pieces of 6mm flat bar, with a bolt and nylock. Works a treat.

I also extended the retaining lip with 6mm as I bent the whole spring mount upwards.

If you want new springs in the size that you mentioned, contact JOHNZ on this forum.

He sourced my springs and HIJACK's springs. Mine is a fender with 4" and HIJACK's is a RR with 5".

Micka

i had dumbrels stretch mine 3 inches they are still good after a lot of abuse they were originally 2.5 over now they ar 5.5

Another option is to extend your shockie turret so they stop falling out.

Personally I'd always opt for shocks that are a tad short so that doesn' t happen. I've seen a few instances of springs falling out on the track because they're not retained

Regards,

Trav

CUE DISLOCATION CONES. IS THE TRUCK GOING OFF ROAD, IF SO THEN DO WOULD YOU WANT TO LIMIT YOUR ARTICULATION/TRAVEL?

Aquarangie wrote:Another option is to extend your shockie turret so they stop falling out.

Personally I'd always opt for shocks that are a tad short so that doesn' t happen. I've seen a few instances of springs falling out on the track because they're not retained

Regards,

Trav

I personally think the exact opposite is better.

Longer shocks is where its at.

Just retain them or make up some cones.

Micka

also a simple fix to aiding the zip ties from breaking is to leave alot of slack, dont do em up tight at ride height cause the springs unloaded weight will be enough to break them after a short period of time.

Same goes for hose clamps.... leave em abit slack too.

I used to have four on each front spring (upper) but did em up tight and they broke all the time, then left three slack ones and only usually ever broke one if any.

Cheers

P.S. fit them at the point where the spring is just about to (or has) unseat from the turret then you know the springs own rate isnt gonna be tryin to break em apart.

P.P.S only reason i stuck with zip ties instead of large hose clamps is the hose clamps rattled.

I thought I read somewhere that dislocation cones would make a vehicle unroadworth here in Oz....... not sure where I saw it...... maybe a lot of cobblers......

Micka wrote:

Aquarangie wrote:Another option is to extend your shockie turret so they stop falling out.

Personally I'd always opt for shocks that are a tad short so that doesn' t happen. I've seen a few instances of springs falling out on the track because they're not retained

Regards,

Trav

I personally think the exact opposite is better.

Longer shocks is where its at.

Just retain them or make up some cones.

Micka

I'll tell you what, I had the 'longer travel' Rancho shock option on my 93 'Aquarangie' and then had a shorter OME shock but more practical spring set-up on my 83 'Thomas' and found the latter was more stable and felt much safer off-road even without the oodles of travel that Aquarangie had.

A good example is someone I reguarly go off-road has a Disco with long travel shocks and hard-ish spring combo and my 83 Rangie had a softer spring rate, I was getting about 15mm less travel than the Disco and I wasn't running the long shock option. This was an interesting comparision and was surprised myself.

Doesn't matter how much wheel travel you've got, if there's no weight on the drive wheel, you still need diff locks, end of story. I don't preclaim to be an expert but I just comment from my off-road experiences

Trav

Aquarangie wrote:

Micka wrote:

Aquarangie wrote:Another option is to extend your shockie turret so they stop falling out.

Personally I'd always opt for shocks that are a tad short so that doesn' t happen. I've seen a few instances of springs falling out on the track because they're not retained

Regards,

Trav

I personally think the exact opposite is better.

Longer shocks is where its at.

Just retain them or make up some cones.

Micka

I don't preclaim to be an expert but I just comment from my off-road experiences

Trav

Same same, Trav

That's the beauty of our sport/hobby. There are very few rules and when there are rules...they are very often open to debate.

Best to try for yourself. My preference suits my driving style. Yours suits yours.

At the end of the day...all that matters is that we are all in Rovers


Micka

Micka wrote:

Aquarangie wrote:

Micka wrote:

Aquarangie wrote:Another option is to extend your shockie turret so they stop falling out.

Personally I'd always opt for shocks that are a tad short so that doesn' t happen. I've seen a few instances of springs falling out on the track because they're not retained

Regards,

Trav

I personally think the exact opposite is better.

Longer shocks is where its at.

Just retain them or make up some cones.

Micka

I don't preclaim to be an expert but I just comment from my off-road experiences

Trav

Same same, Trav

That's the beauty of our sport/hobby. There are very few rules and when there are rules...they are very often open to debate.

Best to try for yourself. My preference suits my driving style. Yours suits yours.

At the end of the day...all that matters is that we are all in Rovers


Micka

So true, couldn't 'conform' and drive a Toyota

Rules were meant to be broken. No point having then otherwise

Trav

mu-stu wrote:I thought I read somewhere that dislocation cones would make a vehicle unroadworth here in Oz....... not sure where I saw it...... maybe a lot of cobblers......

Technically yes, I think there is a rule somewhere which states that the springs should not come unseated during the full length of suspension movement.

james feeney wrote:CUE DISLOCATION CONES. IS THE TRUCK GOING OFF ROAD, IF SO THEN DO WOULD YOU WANT TO LIMIT YOUR ARTICULATION/TRAVEL?

James, there has been a lot of discussion on here (and elsewhere) about retained springs vs dislocation cones (both for vehicles that go offroad).

The general consensus these days is that while unretained springs (with dislocation cones) may have more travel on a test ramp, the unseating and reseating makes for less stable handling offroad (especially on side slopes), and doesn't really make much difference to overall travel, since the wheel on the unseated side doesn't have much ground pressure. There are still people in both camps, but practically all offroad competition vehicles I am aware of run fully retained springs.

ISUZUROVER wrote:

james feeney wrote:CUE DISLOCATION CONES. IS THE TRUCK GOING OFF ROAD, IF SO THEN DO WOULD YOU WANT TO LIMIT YOUR ARTICULATION/TRAVEL?

James, there has been a lot of discussion on here (and elsewhere) about retained springs vs dislocation cones (both for vehicles that go offroad).

The general consensus these days is that while unretained springs (with dislocation cones) may have more travel on a test ramp, the unseating and reseating makes for less stable handling offroad (especially on side slopes), and doesn't really make much difference to overall travel, since the wheel on the unseated side doesn't have much ground pressure. There are still people in both camps, but practically all offroad competition vehicles I am aware of run fully retained springs.

maxxtraxion at TTC05 lost a rear spring

To be perfectly honest, we use dislocation cones, but not to gain oodles of travel. On most of the near standard set ups (OME) the spring likes to leave the seat but only by an inch or so. Which I think is fine, even for side slopes.

We did use Scorpion's Extreme (or equipe at that time) set up but found that the extreme travel was taking the weight of the axle away from the truck on side slopes and so we eventually went back to OME.

I definately have to agree that having experienced both systems, if you have front and rear lockers then you don't need balls out travel. If you run standard axles (which alot of guys do over here) then oodles of travel might gain a little more traction (probably more so from the side walls in deep ruts for example).

Do you mean dislocation cones are illegal in competition or general on road use?

All the best

JF

james feeney wrote:To be perfectly honest, we use dislocation cones, but not to gain oodles of travel. On most of the near standard set ups (OME) the spring likes to leave the seat but only by an inch or so. Which I think is fine, even for side slopes.

We did use Scorpion's Extreme (or equipe at that time) set up but found that the extreme travel was taking the weight of the axle away from the truck on side slopes and so we eventually went back to OME.

I definately have to agree that having experienced both systems, if you have front and rear lockers then you don't need balls out travel. If you run standard axles (which alot of guys do over here) then oodles of travel might gain a little more traction (probably more so from the side walls in deep ruts for example).

Do you mean dislocation cones are illegal in competition or general on road use?

All the best

JF

They are illegal for on-road use, for the reason that Ben stated earlier.

The Mog Rover has the springs retained top and bottom and it gets an enormous amount of travel. They would be super soft though as it is never driven on road - well...almost never.

Micka

With springs retained at top and bottom, they can extend beyond the free length, if the shock has enough stroke and is mounted to allow this.

If the spring extends beyond it's free length, ie. is in tension, you have gained some extra travel, but the weight of the wheel, tyre and part of the axle is assisting stability. Anyone serious would be locked so there is no practical dissadvantage from loss of traction on that side.

Another advantage is that retaining the springs on the rear will make the front radius arm setup articulate better.

IMHO, this is a far better set-up than dislocation cones. If you want to brag about long travel, use dislocation cones. If you want a truck that performs better and is safer in off camber situations, retain the springs.

Bush65 wrote:IMHO, this is a far better set-up than dislocation cones. If you want to brag about long travel, use dislocation cones. If you want a truck that performs better and is safer in off camber situations, retain the springs.

well said...
I played around with various setups on my ramp... and found that retaining the rears definatley forced the front to "work" better... the distance up the ramp was no better with the springs unseated and the vehicle definatly felt more tippy at full shock droop...

What methods have people used to retain their springs up front, so far i have only ever retained my rear springs and have only had problems once with the zipp tyres breaking off.....

Up front i drilled 2 small holes thru the spring seat and put some zipp tyes thru them and around the spring. but found they would still pop out slightly somtimes but not fully because the shock is thru the middle of the spring.

If you are happy with the rear coils and the front is a lot heavier than the rear than just get the same coils up front as you have on the rear.

Just note that your ride is going to be more unstable then it already is.

Shane

so do 80 seires front coils fit for sure? might be a cheap way for me to do a lift if it will give me 2inches and get them from the wreckers.

460cixy wrote:so do 80 seires front coils fit for sure? might be a cheap way for me to do a lift if it will give me 2inches and get them from the wreckers.

Not coils...the shocks fit.

I think 80 series coils have a little piggy tail bit on them.

I know that the 80 series shocks definitely fit.

Micka

recon thay would work with the tail cut off? im thinking of investgateing some wreckers this arvo and find somthing that fits.