Outer Limits 4x4 Board

am looking at doing a body swap on my junk that i rolled a while back... just sierra to sierra, nothing fancy. i'm after some info 'bout what needs to be pulled apart, what can be left together, what to look out for, trips and tips, any pics, etc etc etc....

i won't be on outers for a week or so, but if ppl can put their thoughts/advice/experiences blah blah up here for me, that'd be awesome

(if we can keep this straight tech, it can then go into the bible... )

I did a body swap on a rolled coily ages ago (hard top to soft top)

Essentially, because I started with an absolutely bare new body, I had to use everything from my original. Havng said this, it's a relatively straightforward operation.

The dash comes out almost complete
The wiring harness runs along underneath the body with some of it inside for the dash and tail lights, etc
seats/carpet, etc obviously all just come out

As long as you disconnect the wiring from the gearbox, engine, and pull it thru the firewall before you lift the body, it should be pretty easy.

obviously remove all the hung stuff first (doors, etc)

The front clip comes off in one piece too after removing the bonnet. That means the front guards and front grille/radiator surround area all comes off as one. This will leave you with the body tub sitting on the chassis, which makes it heaps easier to do the wiring bit.

Just beware of the earth connections on the firewall from th eharness as you'll easily pull them out if you miss them. They will sukk to fix later.

I found that because I had my tub painted before I used it, the engine didn't run well, and that was because earth threads in the firewall had paint in them. Make sure you make a good earth connection there after you finish.

Enjoy.

Adam

Rem also the brake lines from the master cylinder needs to be disconnected.


Nic

Well is your rig a Softie or a hard top and how bad is the damage?

From what i see from my softy the whole top half bolts off so have you considered this?

Also what are you doing to the damaged body... i could find a use for it if its going to the tip

so is it just earths attached to the firewall? haven't looked under the bonnet for a couple of months and the zook's 2hrs away...


also, are s/top and h/top seat rails different? i sat in one s/top a while back that wouldn't slide back very far... mighta just been stuffed tho

Santos wrote:Well is your rig a Softie or a hard top and how bad is the damage?

From what i see from my softy the whole top half bolts off so have you considered this?

Also what are you doing to the damaged body... i could find a use for it if its going to the tip

i'm swapping from a h/top to a drover s/top tub. i barrel rolled mine, but the damage is almost entirely above window sill height.... could potentially grind the top off and weld the s/top stuff one.. the rest of the panels are hardly damaged.

PM me in the 3rd week of jan if ur keen, should prolly know what i'm doin with it by then... body will be in newcastle tho

Seats, watch out for the NT ones as they were the ratrap ones. the WT ones are tilt/slide. same mounts it seems but. (i was wrong:))

Below from nbs forum.

Spot on Steve - job done...the LH side is about 4inches further back - one hole for the rear mount in the WT not two in the NT.
It also means you have to slice the carpet up as well

Positives: headrest, more leg room, and a better seat (better not great)
Negatives: less room to pack stuff under the LH seat.

i had no issues putting WT seats in NT but i used the NT base and bolted the seat onto it....

I believe there is also a earth from the batt to the engine and chassis also.

Other things i have found are apart from the obvious are the indicator plugs are different between the WT and NT.
* windscreens and panels are the same.
* if u using the drover u will have the

I will try get some pics of my project for you as it is in pieces at moment.

Use ur old doors as half doors.

Impulsive i think got most of it. Migh twant to work out if u are going to do a body lift on it or any chassis mods also as they are easy to do in the middle of swapping.

cheers

Nic

nicbeer wrote:Below from nbs forum.

Spot on Steve - job done...the LH side is about 4inches further back - one hole for the rear mount in the WT not two in the NT.
It also means you have to slice the carpet up as well

Positives: headrest, more leg room, and a better seat (better not great)
Negatives: less room to pack stuff under the LH seat.

i had no issues putting WT seats in NT but i used the NT base and bolted the seat onto it....

um... i'm a lil confused, do u have the link? might make more sense in context

I believe there is also a earth from the batt to the engine and chassis also.

Other things i have found are apart from the obvious are the indicator plugs are different between the WT and NT.
* windscreens and panels are the same.
* if u using the drover u will have the was there supposed to be something after that text?

I will try get some pics of my project for you as it is in pieces at moment.

Use ur old doors as half doors. can't the owner is keeping the doors
Impulsive i think got most of it. Migh twant to work out if u are going to do a body lift on it or any chassis mods also as they are easy to do in the middle of swapping.
would be the best idea, but i need this thing back on the road ASAP, i need a car!!! hoping that virtual lift will clear the 31's for now

cheers

Nic

might be a dumb question, but what 'bout stuff like accelerator/brake/clutch? is that just cables coming thru the firewall?

i'll make sure i take lots of pics when we do it, and post up

Hey Steve, slightly off topic. I did get ya message bout helpin with the swap, but havent replied (im lazy). Yeah i can give ya a hand and bring my tool kit over.
Layto....

Sorry - seat mount link
http://www.nbs4x4club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3977

the drover thing, remember that the drover has rectangle lights and sierra has round. just depends on what grill or front clip u use.

Pedals and cables: (not so stupid)
Acc: Needs to be taken off from carb or pedal.
brake: only lines need to be removed from master cylinder
clutch: cable needs to be removed from clutch fork, (cable activated clutch. u can take it from the pedal also if needed.

cheers

Let me know when.......Ham and Pineapple and illusions for me, thanx

nicbeer wrote:Sorry - seat mount link
http://www.nbs4x4club.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3977

the drover thing, remember that the drover has rectangle lights and sierra has round. just depends on what grill or front clip u use.

Pedals and cables: (not so stupid)
Acc: Needs to be taken off from carb or pedal.
brake: only lines need to be removed from master cylinder
clutch: cable needs to be removed from clutch fork, (cable activated clutch. u can take it from the pedal also if needed.

cheers

thanks dude......



layto and chuck.... am doing the body swap this saturday http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=63701

orrite.... finally found some time to upload pics of the bodysway, or at least the first bit with pulling the old tub off. i figure if u can get that far, u can prolly put it all back together. i'm gonna put the pics up with the info that i think was relevant, any questions or comments PM me so it stays tech. daryl's gonna correct some of my mistakes i'm sure

we first did all the prep stuff, i'd already pulled most of the stuff out from the inside, then we pulled the doors off, got rid of the bonnet, grill, lights, bar, and anything else i can't remember....

then started removing body mounts, one under each headlight, six under the tub, two accessed by opening the read door and undoing bolts in the floor

pull out the battery, and start disconnecting stuff that attaches to the body most of that's brainless cos i could do it

pull off the big round (brake booster?) thing and undo steering. take off the rag joint cos u can't pull it thru the firewall

undo heaps of stuff, hoses, doodads, dohickeys, wiring harness, etc etc...

make sure ya get the wires from the alternator, starter motor, carby, headlights.... or disconnect the large harness from behind the glove box.


undo the front clip, there's screws and stuff everywhere!!

*cough*

start undoing the dash... again, screws everywhere, keep looking!

more dash....

harness stuff

more...



make sure u go under the vehicle and undo all the wiring stuff that's attached to the body. there's some down the transmission tunnel, and down the sides for lights etc...

take off the metal piece behind the guard, undo the fuel, take off the bits that are in there, put something in the hose so u don't get stuff falling in

some sweet tech there steve im about to do the same shortly so this will help a lot you arent holding daryl up from building his rig though are you?

CHOPZUKI wrote:some sweet tech there steve im about to do the same shortly so this will help a lot you arent holding daryl up from building his rig though are you?

nah daryl wont finish his for ages


what are you doing with your barwork?

MADZUKI wrote:

CHOPZUKI wrote:some sweet tech there steve im about to do the same shortly so this will help a lot you arent holding daryl up from building his rig though are you?

nah daryl wont finish his for ages


what are you doing with your barwork?

nothing

aaaaaaa
whats this canada

soon as ive finished pimping steve ride ill get back into mine
mines been kicked outta the garage
thanks to steve


theres my homeless zook

undo the screws around the lever surround, take the knob off and remove the rubber, undo the 4 top bolts on the gearbox and pull the shifter out. make sure ya cover it up so stuff doesn't fall in.

undo the transfer case lever surrounds. to get the lever out, push down on the metal around the lever at the case... it's got a spring under it, push and turn anti-clockwise. i find the easiest way to do it is get under the car, and just use your fingers and a rag. other way is push from the top and use a screwdriver to turn it.

i'll try and get a pic of this later...

rear lights will either need to come out or disconnect the wires as the rear bar is connected to the body

check everything, jack it up, check everything again, check again, then lift it off....

goes off backwards very easily

that's it.... i did some basic prep stuff before we started, the real work only took 'bout 5hrs i think. might take longer or shorter depending on how much ya know and how fast u work. could do a swap in a day if u had it all ready to go

i'll post up anything interesting when we get around to putting the new body on, which will be a lil while yet. hope it helps