Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys quick question for those of you that may know. After the last outing in the 40 and some dodgy rock climbing etc. I have a problem where when I lock the hub in on the driver side and drive it makes a horrible grinding noise and basically wont move.

I've jacked up the front of the truck and both front wheels free spin when hubs unlocked. When I lock the hub on the passenger side the wheel still turns but you can feel it turning the front diff and front driveshaft.

When I lock the hub in on the drivers side and try and turn it turns half way then grinds/locks. From what I can tell the diff is ok (as the passenger side turns) and Im guessing the CV is broken somewhere?

Are CV's cheap enough to replace from wreckers etc.? Or am I better buying a whole front end diff and using that? My 40 is discs's on front if that makes any difference.

Thanks

ozlegacy wrote:Hi guys quick question for those of you that may know. After the last outing in the 40 and some dodgy rock climbing etc. I have a problem where when I lock the hub in on the driver side and drive it makes a horrible grinding noise and basically wont move.

I've jacked up the front of the truck and both front wheels free spin when hubs unlocked. When I lock the hub on the passenger side the wheel still turns but you can feel it turning the front diff and front driveshaft.

When I lock the hub in on the drivers side and try and turn it turns half way then grinds/locks. From what I can tell the diff is ok (as the passenger side turns) and Im guessing the CV is broken somewhere?

Are CV's cheap enough to replace from wreckers etc.? Or am I better buying a whole front end diff and using that? My 40 is discs's on front if that makes any difference.

Thanks

Yep that sounds like a CV, $100 approx from a wreckers.
If the CV housing has split as in the pic below it may need tapping out even with the two flat sides lined up to remove as it may have expanded a little
Also if it has dropped in bits, careful of razor sharp metal fragments.
Any problems PM me.

Yep, busted cv. Definitely change it yourself. its an easy job which takes me about half a day but some guys on here could do one in about 20mins. Dependcs on how familiar you are with the model and how competent you are mechanically. Heaps of write ups on how to do it on here and around the net. Its good to do your first one at home so that when you need to change one on the trail you know what you're doing. Feel free to PM or email if you have any dramas.

Thanks guys apprecaite the quick and positive responses. One quick questions when I take the caliper off Im used to having a rubber extension as the last part of the brake line which means you can hang up the caliper out of the way while working.

On the 40 its a solid pipe same as rest of the brake line, do I have to remove this to take the caliper off? And if so how do i stop bake fluid pissing everywhere? Im used to just pinching off the rubber hose which I cant do obviously?

Thanks

ozlegacy wrote:Thanks guys apprecaite the quick and positive responses. One quick questions when I take the caliper off Im used to having a rubber extension as the last part of the brake line which means you can hang up the caliper out of the way while working.

On the 40 its a solid pipe same as rest of the brake line, do I have to remove this to take the caliper off? And if so how do i stop bake fluid pissing everywhere? Im used to just pinching off the rubber hose which I cant do obviously?

Thanks

Pinch it at the rubber, you will lose a little brake fluid and just bleed the brake when re-assembled.

One option it to undo the brake line to the caliper just enough to move and swivle the caliper around out of the way and then re tighten, you will need a lenght of string to tie around the cliper to support it while its out of position, you will lose less fluid. But still recommend you bleed the calliper once assembled. (carefull you dont fracture the brake line doing this)

Ok maybe Im really stupid but thats the problem Im having its not rubber to pinch the entire brake line is a metal pipe!

Normally the last 6 inches is rubber but its not on the cruiser, I'll try and take a pic to show what I mean

ozlegacy wrote:Ok maybe Im really stupid but thats the problem Im having its not rubber to pinch the entire brake line is a metal pipe!

Normally the last 6 inches is rubber but its not on the cruiser, I'll try and take a pic to show what I mean

there is a rubber section that drops down to the diff from the chasis

pinch it off there.

Pinch the rubber hose that comes the diff housing to the braket on the backing plate (the other end of the metal pipe going to the caliper ).

wally