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TD42 turbo, keep or chuck a v8 in?

Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:39 am
by Tiny
ok, the GQ engine is starting to blow some blue smoke, tis lacking power, low compression etc and frankly is on its last legs, I am considering putting a 350 in, that kind of power would be nice after 7 years of only deisels. the engine is turboed rnning 10psi, but if I intercool it and boost it up etc I can get some good power out of it, but by the time a rebuild it I could just put the 8 in it and rebuild the diesel over time myself and sell it to recoup some of the v8 costs. I want to to OBC in 07 at this stage so whatever I do needs to be reliable enough and strong enough to be semi competitive

thoughts please

Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:09 pm
by Newhouse
Hey Tiny,
Have you read the thread by "greenfourby" titled "V8 or worked diesel for OBC rig"? Its not a bad read and has both pros and cons for both engines. I myself like the diesel, easy to work on, reliable ect. You said that you have had a diesel for 7 years? Maybe you should rebuild the motor and stay with what you know. I had a non turbo diesel in my shorty and am currently rebuilding it, turbo, IC, fuel pump, ect ect and cant wait to see the difference. You dont need huge power anyway to do well in OBC, but you can still get good power out of a diesel if you do it right. Hope that helped a little!
Chris.

Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 4:39 pm
by greenfourby
I'll sell you my motor and I can have the V8 :) :) :)

I give you a good price, honestly :lol:

Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 5:16 pm
by Screwy
mate,

the sd33 diesels have blue and white and black and all sorts of smoke coming out of them and still kick along...

personally the TD42 are a much better motor then the sd33 so i would be just running it until it dies....
just re ring it would only cost ya a few hundred and should be sweet for another 200 K

screwy

Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 6:09 pm
by GutSquisher Media
How many k's the motor has done will determine how much a rebuild will cost, If your lucky you may get away with just new pistons, rings and bearings plus a rebuild gasket kit. Cost very between suppliers but you will be looking at $1000 to $2000 for the bits.

Getting the machining done is the costly part could cost you around $1500 to $2500.

Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 6:58 pm
by greenfourby
I think it's pretty farked, when we changed the clutch a few months ago I could turn the motor by hand.

I would of thought that should have been near impossible on a diesel.

Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:55 pm
by GutSquisher Media
If you turn it over by hand its farked alright.

To answer your first question it would be cheaper in the long run to find a good used motor than go down the V8 route, it would work out cheaper than swapping to a V8, remember the conversion kits aren't cheap and the engineer ticket will cost you.

It's best to sit down a work out the cost and compare the two jobs on paper.

Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:45 am
by Tiny
done 330k, done 40k with turbo running 10psi turbo bearing is starting to go as well

Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 11:20 am
by fnqcairns
I have just bought a td42 myself 200k the engine is still very tight with all areas running like new (except for a slow to go out oil light :cry: )

I cannot in any way believe my td42 could naturally go down hill to rebuild stage in the next 130k turboed or not, I am open to the next 300k but should push through that also. Starting to warm to idea of owning a diesel now.

Your engine must have overheated in it's former life.

My opinion is to fully build up the diesel, look ater it and never let it get hot and it will pay you back with more years of use than you can probably use.
My diesel is running just as well at 200k now as my injected petrol 2L mazda engine was at that point. The Mazda is still humming easily along at 400k now with good oil pressure, low-high range and even compression, no oil useage and no internal noises, never had an engine bolt cracked on it from new. There is no reason for me to believe that the 2L with a rebuilt head in the next 50k will not make 600k. By all accounts diesels are expected to live longer than petrols.

Secret is to run HD diesel oil in all vehicle engines (regardless) and never ever let them overheat -ever!

cheers

Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 11:58 am
by Tiny
fnqcairns wrote:I have just bought a td42 myself 200k the engine is still very tight with all areas running like new (except for a slow to go out oil light :cry: )

I cannot in any way believe my td42 could naturally go down hill to rebuild stage in the next 130k turboed or not, I am open to the next 300k but should push through that also. Starting to warm to idea of owning a diesel now.

Your engine must have overheated in it's former life.

My opinion is to fully build up the diesel, look ater it and never let it get hot and it will pay you back with more years of use than you can probably use.
My diesel is running just as well at 200k now as my injected petrol 2L mazda engine was at that point. The Mazda is still humming easily along at 400k now with good oil pressure, low-high range and even compression, no oil useage and no internal noises, never had an engine bolt cracked on it from new.

Secret is to run HD diesel oil in all vehicle engines (regardless) and never ever let them overheat -ever!

cheers
I had an over heating prob a while ago doe to a cloged radiator that I fixed post haste, caused it to boil once and that is how I knew there was an issue, had not got to top of the guage when I stoped and I let it cool right down before getting to the next servo very slowly and fluching the raditor and replacing the coolant so I doubht it was my over heating that was the cause, alot of the smoke is black so I need to adjust the fuel pump, and I notice a bit of blue as well and it uses some oil. How much would injector service, re ring and turbo overhaul cost???

Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:35 pm
by fnqcairns
Tiny what about before you owned it?, sounds like you did get away with it that time, it only takes one real overheat to stuff an engine for life, rings turn to plasticene etc. They may restart and run fine after a single cooking but in reality the engine is r%ot^d good and proper it will never live a full life. This is in my experience and the first thing I look for when buying second hand is even the slightest evidence or suspicion it could have overheated.
I feel for you, it's a shit of a position when the engine to rebuild is worth more than the car engine-less. If my GQ's engine died today I would be in the same boat.
Sorry cannot help with cost estimates, my fingers are crossed that I will never need to know.

Cheers

Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:47 pm
by Tiny
fnqcairns wrote:Tiny what about before you owned it?, sounds like you did get away with it that time, it only takes one real overheat to stuff an engine for life, rings turn to plasticene etc. They may restart and run fine after a single cooking but in reality the engine is r%ot^d good and proper it will never live a full life. This is in my experience and the first thing I look for when buying second hand is even the slightest evidence or suspicion it could have overheated.
I feel for you, it's a shit of a position when the engine to rebuild is worth more than the car engine-less. If my GQ's engine died today I would be in the same boat.
Sorry cannot help with cost estimates, my fingers are crossed that I will never need to know.

Cheers
thee was no sign when I bought it, ran well and was very clean but I give it hell, bought it for comp use. had 310k on it when I bought it, so lots of kays where is could have happened.

If i work on it I will boost it to 15 psi and intercool it and may even run a second rad at the back with a thermo rather than get on bigger one to help keep it cool. still the V8 it tempting, I can bring in an EFI 350 crate form the states and I get the adaptor at cost, only other thing bar the ute chop still on the cards is transfer gears as low range is not as good as I would like, basically pita down and have to give it to much going up atm to be in the sweet spot so CVs are getting a hard timealso looking at getting some longfeildsa and make up some custom shafts to suit, but would need spares in case so $$ there