Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all.... hope you had a great christmas & new year, My new Years Day was sitting on the letter box with a glass of chardie in my hand watching the RFS defend Kariong from the Bush fire... those guys are brilliant... but back to the topic..

The Rodeo has a positive camber, acording to the manual, of 30' +/- 60'. So from this I assume the specification is anywhere from -30' to 1Deg 30'. So, although the correct setting is positive, 30' either side of neutral is adequate. So to my question...

A ball joint flip has been said to improve camber after a torsion bar wind up. In my naive way of thinking, by winding up the torsion bars one would increase the positiveness (is that a word) of the camber.... so does the ball joint flip decrease or increase the positive camber angle... more specifically does it bring the camber back to a near neutral figure??

Also, if one was to make up a jig that would sit parallel with the rim, put on a protractor with a spirit level and measure the angle of dangle... would this be the actual camber angle??

Finally... the manual states in the camber section the king pin angle is 10degrees +/- 1 degree. What is the king pin??

Cheers

Rainsey

Hi Rainsey. Happy New Year.
Your right about the positive camber increasing by raising the front.

Most vehicles have a positive camber. By raising the front (t/b/ windup), the control arms swing down in an arc making the top of the tyre lean out more, (but not too much because the lower control arm is longer than the top one) making the camber even more positive and probably enough to scrub the tyres on the outside tread.

When you flip the upper ball joint you increase the distance between the upper and lower ball joints and in effect it pushes the upper control arm up higher from whence it once was so the top of the tyre goes back in a bit, because the lower control is longer and sticks out more, making the camber less positive and probably more in line with the manuals specs.

I dont think the flip actually raises the front, it just allows more travel and camber correction as removing all the shims to regain the corect camber may not be enough after winding the t/b's all the way up.

Shocker travel length needs to match the mod and the downward angle of the front driveshafts need to be 30 deg. or less when the trucks at rest or you'll risk premature cv wear.

Just got to get around to this mod myself

I think the king pin is for castor adjustment.

Hey Rainsey, when I inspected the upper ball joints it looks like the front and rear bolts are at different angles to each other.
Just wondering if yours are the same.
I want to make 1/2" spacers as well which could mean some finicky and precise machining of the spacers.
Should get a total of 1" more travel even more if I "mod" the bump stops.

Sudso.... thanks for the reply.

So the ball joint lift effectively raises the arm thus compensating for the torsion bar raise, net effect less positive camber... I think I understand now.

Re the ball joint.... when you say the front and rear bolts, are you talking about the mounting bolts that connect it to the upper arm??

Cheers

Rainsey

Re the ball joint.... when you say the front and rear bolts, are you talking about the mounting bolts that connect it to the upper arm??

Cheers

Rainsey

Yep thats right. The 4 ball joint mounting bolts.
The 2 front bolts look to be at a different angle to the rear ones