Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I lifted my dad's Turbo Desiel 100 Series a week or two ago and I thought someone might be interested in what to do.

Cranking the Front torsion bars works really well although you will probably not get any more than 35-40mm lift out of them (that is with bullbar and winch).

All you need is a 30mm socket.

Jack the front of the vehicle to take all the strain off the torsion bars.
With the 30mm socket tighten (turn clockwise) the bolt at the end of the torsion bar making sure you count the number of turns.

Do the same number of turns on the other torsion bar.

Then fit a set of heavy duty lifted springs in to the rear of the vehicle and your done!

Hope someone finds this of some use.

Regards,
Nick

I did the same thing to my IFS lux a while back.
One thing to watch out for is if you crank it too much it will sit too close to the droop bumpstops and you will have stuff all down travel.
So by lifting it you can actually have your fourby less capable off road!!!
What I did was replace the stock bumpstops with low profile poly ones.
They let the wheels have pretty much the same travel as before.

Another thing to watch is if you crank too far you will put extra wear on your CVs because of the angle they are opperating at.

But having said all that a little bit of a crank is fine as long as you dont go overboard!

I totally agree. CV-Boots will wear alot quicker too.

i did it to my ifs hilux aswell, no probs so far, but make sure u get a wheel alignment afterwards.

oh yeah I forgot to put that.
It totally scews up your wheel alignment after adjusting height.
Must get it aligned or your tyres will get chewed!

another good point I forgot also

I have put in rockcrawler torsion bars which are thicker than stock and upgraded to toughdog ralph shocks all round. I run 285/75R16 and have some rubbing on the front in extreme hard wheeling. I have heard of someone in the US having dropped the front diff to compensate for the lift. Any info on how this is done?

I've been told by Slee offroad that their bracket for this applies to the uzj100. Mine is fzj100

if you dad wants to keep a front end id wind it back down
the ifs 100 are havin the front end fall out of em

a mate at a 4wd shop had done this for a customer and the thing fell on its face , on the birdsville track i think it was

owner of the shop was shitting bricks , he was lucky toyota came to the party

apparently ome sell u 2 sets of shocks for a 100 lift if the first set fail fit the 2nd set asap

or kit it out with the long travel shock with the remote canister

The 100 ifs can be lifted, and we do this on hundreds of them and you will see how we do it in the current [july] overlander mag.

We strengthen the A arms to stop the cracking issues, and we use a specific design washer/shaft/ rubber set up, and lexus hyd suspension bonded bushes in the front struts, and toyota bonded bushes in the rear shocks, which are the same length overall as the OME n74L to suit the 100 ifs, with the Slee diff drop [we bring them into the country] to save cv and cv boot wear.

The big thing is not to exceed 60mm of droop in the front when you set the height, but only do this with the shock we use, as factory are to short, and others except ridepro dont have a heavy duty top washer/rubber set up.

To set them up with the new design heavy duty rear spring we use in the 100, you need a rim to fender measurement from bottom of rim of 770mm, and 5 turns of the adjuster nut = 20mm of height measuring this way in the front.

The reason the A arms crack is from hitting the bump stop, which is a long way inboard, which tries to bend the arm, and they crack to the path of least resistance, which is the torsion bar hole, which seems to make people think the t bar causes the problem, when in fact, stiffer T bars, and better shocks help prevent it.

We do a kit with bilstiens and a new crossmember that strengthens the front end and gives a decent lift and fits 33s nicley

ats4x4dotcom wrote:The 100 ifs can be lifted, and we do this on hundreds of them and you will see how we do it in the current [july] overlander mag.

We strengthen the A arms to stop the cracking issues, and we use a specific design washer/shaft/ rubber set up, and lexus hyd suspension bonded bushes in the front struts, and toyota bonded bushes in the rear shocks, which are the same length overall as the OME n74L to suit the 100 ifs, with the Slee diff drop [we bring them into the country] to save cv and cv boot wear.

The big thing is not to exceed 60mm of droop in the front when you set the height, but only do this with the shock we use, as factory are to short, and others except ridepro dont have a heavy duty top washer/rubber set up.

To set them up with the new design heavy duty rear spring we use in the 100, you need a rim to fender measurement from bottom of rim of 770mm, and 5 turns of the adjuster nut = 20mm of height measuring this way in the front.

The reason the A arms crack is from hitting the bump stop, which is a long way inboard, which tries to bend the arm, and they crack to the path of least resistance, which is the torsion bar hole, which seems to make people think the t bar causes the problem, when in fact, stiffer T bars, and better shocks help prevent it.

Using Ridepro Shocks or Bilstein valved specifically for the job.

Tiny wrote:We do a kit with bilstiens and a new crossmember that strengthens the front end and gives a decent lift and fits 33s nicley

Be careful if its the macquarie copy of ours, as the bushes, and valving arent durable, for Aus, and the buy price on the diff drop isnt real attractive either, vs our landed cost on them to your door ;-)

And we have been doing many lately, with 35's.

I still reckon the toyota engineers must have been on drugs when they decided to put IFS on a large 4wd.


They are tying to make all these 4wds drive like a normal sedan

My cruiser has a solid front axel and its a smooth comforable ride

I know this site isn't the home of IFS lovers, is anyone running this ATS kit in a 100 series?

Have the new shopping/towing the horsefloat car for the other half. It looks Grimace, needs some added extras. Suspension is first on the list.

Question is OME or ATS?

dinos4x4 wrote:I still reckon the toyota engineers must have been on drugs when they decided to put IFS on a large 4wd.


They are tying to make all these 4wds drive like a normal sedan

My cruiser has a solid front axel and its a smooth comforable ride

I thought they done allright with the 80 series anyway, mine rides heaps better than a mates 120 prado in stock trim. I think the prado has a shithouse ride

for a quick fix cranking your torsion bars are good but ive seen the ATS kits fitted to a mates and its the shit. But the Slee Offroad diff drop is the important part

GQ4.8coilcab wrote:for a quick fix cranking your torsion bars are good but ive seen the ATS kits fitted to a mates and its the shit. But the Slee Offroad diff drop is the important part

Any idea what they charge for the ATS kit? emailed them a while ago with no with no response.

sierrajim wrote:I know this site isn't the home of IFS lovers, is anyone running this ATS kit in a 100 series?

Have the new shopping/towing the horsefloat car for the other half. It looks ., needs some added extras. Suspension is first on the list.

Question is OME or ATS?

Yep, I had mine done at Macquarie but with Darren's original ATS setup. The improvement in ride and handling on and off road is great.

I've had an issue with damaged radiator on both the OTL and also Kosiusko NP for which this mod may have been a contributing factor. I now believe I have had it fixed. PM if you want the details.

I've just had the ATS kit added. For the first week it had no bar work on the car, so while it was a little firm, it still rode quite smooth and controlled, and not as bumpy as OEM. Last night I took it for a run again, but I'd just spent a couple of days fitting front and rear bars, battery, cupboards etc, and it rides lovely now, much better comfort and control than the original setup. The original increase in height was 60mm at the front, and ATS set it up knowing I was about to put a bar on it the following weekend, so it was set up 6mm higher. I haven't measured it again yet, but I wreckon it's pretty spot on. The rear came up 20mm, but I don't know how much it dropped with the ARB rear bar (PITA to fit - real fiddly) I'll measure soon.
Richard, I was concerned about the water crossings and fan issues, but the fitting of the bash plate has been reworked so now there are no spacers in the front 3 bolts, so the foam seal now sits hard against the bottom of the radiator as per original Toyota fitment. Water crossings shouldn't be a problem.

quick60 wrote: Richard, I was concerned about the water crossings and fan issues, but the fitting of the bash plate has been reworked so now there are no spacers in the front 3 bolts, so the foam seal now sits hard against the bottom of the radiator as per original Toyota fitment. Water crossings shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks mate. The message must have got through from reading mine and another's posts on other forums.

sierrajim wrote:
Any idea what they charge for the ATS kit? emailed them a while ago with no with no response.

darren@ats4x4.com works fine for me.

Unusual for him not to reply, I'day say there must have been a problem, perhaps try again.

Richard, I don't know if Macquarie do the same as ATS with the bash plate.

dinos4x4 wrote:I still reckon the toyota engineers must have been on drugs when they decided to put IFS on a large 4wd.


They are tying to make all these 4wds drive like a normal sedan

My cruiser has a solid front axel and its a smooth comforable ride

I agree whats wrong with the solid axle there just trying to make the new cruisers into soft roaders for soccer mums
I have a solid axle 105 series with a 6" spring lift & 2" body lift and it rides much better on and of the road than my old 80 with a 4" springs
the only new full size 4WD with a solid axle is the Patrol and I cant see myself driving one of those buckets lets just hope Toyota snap out of it soon

jimbo

jimbo jones wrote:

dinos4x4 wrote:I still reckon the toyota engineers must have been on drugs when they decided to put IFS on a large 4wd.


They are tying to make all these 4wds drive like a normal sedan

My cruiser has a solid front axel and its a smooth comforable ride

I agree whats wrong with the solid axle there just trying to make the new cruisers into soft roaders for soccer mums
I have a solid axle 105 series with a 6" spring lift & 2" body lift and it rides much better on and of the road than my old 80 with a 4" springs
the only new full size 4WD with a solid axle is the Patrol and I cant see myself driving one of those buckets lets just hope Toyota snap out of it soon

jimbo

I agree with your comments, but Toyota are looking for sales and the ride in a IFS (It F#cK!n Sux) handles better for these soccer mums etc. Us offroaders that play on the rocks etc would make up what % of new car 4x4 sales, they don't care whjo buys them 3 years down the track and are going to put in 6' lifts etc.

It sucks but thats the life with new cars being produced