Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I need new diffs and a housing for my 1.0 litre zook.
I have got some from a mate, coming soon.
The front is fitted with a power trax lock rite.
Can't decide wether to run it, or stick with a welded front, and sell the locker to fund the housings? Money is tight as usual
Haven't had too many issues with a welded front, and would never consider a lock right due to expense...but it's there, so its making me think
I know a bit about them from years of reading posts, but have only seen one in action.
Opinions accepted, good or bad.

thanks

christover

I have had one in the front of my 1lt zook for about the last 12 months.
It does all that it said it would, Unlocks when turning sharp corners which i need cos of the 32's and no power steering.

Have not done a CV yet and touch wood i dont.
it is quiet and i have never heard it when it operates (lock/Unlock)

I have never ran with a wended diff so i am unable to compare it.

Cheers
Simmo.....

84ZOOKSTA wrote:I have had one in the front of my 1lt zook for about the last 12 months.
It does all that it said it would, Unlocks when turning sharp corners which i need cos of the 32's and no power steering.

Have not done a CV yet and touch wood i dont.
it is quiet and i have never heard it when it operates (lock/Unlock)

I have never ran with a wended diff so i am unable to compare it.

Cheers
Simmo.....

thanx for that.
Part of my concern is cv's
I have only done 3 in my life, 1 b4 welded front (and I earned it)
1 after, while reversing with 1 hub unlocked (tight corner b4 power steer).
The 3rd was backing into driveway, with only the front drive connected, due to rear diff busting pinion.
My brain argues over whether the locker would take some strains away, or just add on/off strain...
If I use it and bust it, can always go back to welded.
But then I've lost the dollar advantage.
thsanks again

christover

if you sold the locker, could you spend the money more wisely on something else?
i'd sell it.

munga wrote:if you sold the locker, could you spend the money more wisely on something else?
i'd sell it.

Yep, that was the original plan, I'd use the $$ to pay the bloke for the axles and housings etc.
Until thoughts sneaked into my head
I suppose it will depend on what I can get for it, as to whether it's worth selling or trying.
Won't offer it for sale until I actually have it, tho, that can go wrong

christover

if it is one that replaces the sun gears as a complete unit it should be okay but the ones that mesh in factory side gears i have seen these shatter under stress ie. on loose hills and sand when not alot of traco on front wheels and high revs.it cant decide weather to lock or unlock

mysterioussasvit wrote:if it is one that replaces the sun gears as a complete unit it should be okay but the ones that mesh in factory side gears i have seen these shatter under stress ie. on loose hills and sand when not alot of traco on front wheels and high revs.it cant decide weather to lock or unlock

I have no idea which one it is, I guess I should check that out before deciding. I'm not sure if both types were offered for Sierra 1.0s or not.
thanks for the info.

christover

Whats the diff between powertrax and lockrite??


If there aint much diff i have a lockrite and it unlocks round corners never hear it click at all and works perfect even with lots of abuse...

sierrafreak wrote:Whats the diff between powertrax and lockrite??


If there aint much diff i have a lockrite and it unlocks round corners never hear it click at all and works perfect even with lots of abuse...

Power Trax make the original lock right/rite (sp) in usa. These are stronger by popular opinion, tho I have no experience with either.

4wd systems in Adelaide made a LOKKA lock rite, very similar design, and at least one common designer. Almost a cheap copy, but not quite.
Popular opinion rates these as weaker, and a different metal.
They work the same way.

I belive the LOKKA only had option of no new side gears, but I could be wrong.

the type that replace side gears are bound to be smoother, and all new bits is a good thing.

christover

yeah mine replaced the side gears

i have mine in the rear though.

What are you going to do with it if you dont end up using it in the front?

The 1lt have a 4pin front diff dont they?

sierrafreak wrote:yeah mine replaced the side gears

i have mine in the rear though.

What are you going to do with it if you dont end up using it in the front?

The 1lt have a 4pin front diff dont they?

I will sell it if I don't use it. It will help me pay for the diffs etc.
This will depend on what its worth, and if its the better type.
Yep, 1.0 litres have a 4 pinion carrier up front.
As do NT 1.3's. Only WT's have a 2 pinion front.
I think.
I belive front and rear are same for the ones that use the sierra side gears, only the axle splines are different, so I guess the better ones only go in one end or the other?

one litres and 1.3's lock rites don't interchange.

I'll be staying welded at the rear for sure.

christover

Well I've pulled it all apart, and it is the type that uses original zook side gears....oh well. This one would be harder to sell I guess. Also I would hate to sell someone something if it busted....
Thinking I'll just fit it in and see what happens, it will work forever or it won't....Will keep the welded fer a spare, in case.
Bench testing it seems to work ok.

Even with power steer, sometimes wind up from the welded front steers me where I don't wanna go.

So fitting it in soon, unless somebody really wants it bad.

thanks all

christover

iI brought mine with front and rear lock rights and i cant the back one on the road but when you put it in 4wd you cant steer the thing. I need power steering!

suzuki boy wrote:iI brought mine with front and rear lock rights and i cant the back one on the road but when you put it in 4wd you cant steer the thing. I need power steering!

I figured steering could be an issue, that's why I did power steer first, 'cause even with a proper locker, it would be harder to steer, just like welded. Welded was cheaper/faster/ready for Adventure tour etc.

Locker is fitted, now, just making up a tailshaft spacer, then off to get some diff oil and then try it out.

christover

Sorry I dont want to come across as highjacking, as from what I have been reading does welding the front axles seem to cause steering problems when 4WDriving....? Im looking at the options as well at the moment like welding the front, then I can always unlock the hubs. I dont do alot of Full on Rock climbing , but do alot of mud and water driving.

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:Sorry I dont want to come across as highjacking, as from what I have been reading does welding the front axles seem to cause steering problems when 4WDriving....? Im looking at the options as well at the moment like welding the front, then I can always unlock the hubs. I dont do alot of Full on Rock climbing , but do alot of mud and water driving.

I loved my welded front. Even with it's down points.
Hoping I like the lockright as much.
As you said, I just jumped out and unlocked/locked a hub when needed.
Sometimes a welded front will bounce the front over where you didn't expect, this is same as a locker can do when locked.
In mud its fine, but in higher traction, steering is heavy. I managed for years, but now got power steer.

christover

So far so good, I'm impressed with its invisibility in 2wd with hubs locked.
Not done a proper offroad test, yet, but on a few bits of dirt, handling is what I expected. Handles like a welded front under power, but unlocks under free wheel or deceleration into a corner, making it tuck in and turn tighter.
Will have to relearn this steering stuff
I am looking forward to getting bush with it, and the real test.
As long as it lasts a long time and doesn't increase driveline breakages, I'll be happy.

Gotta replace pinion seal, musta nicked it or stuffed it on assembly, tho
christover

This is a great post. Its so good to get your comparison, just what Ive been looking for.
This should get put in the Bible.

about 6 yrs ago the oldman put a LOKKA type in our 1 ltr zook and it shattered quick and we were told it was because of the new and old gears meshing etc. i dunno much about others in zooks. Our Lokka didnt last long due to being built poorly and weakly. a mate of mine has a welded which is still holding up to 33's which i think is pretty bloody fair.

Turbo Tonka wrote:about 6 yrs ago the oldman put a LOKKA type in our 1 ltr zook and it shattered quick and we were told it was because of the new and old gears meshing etc. i dunno much about others in zooks. Our Lokka didnt last long due to being built poorly and weakly. a mate of mine has a welded which is still holding up to 33's which i think is pretty bloody fair.

Yes, breakage is my worry, too.
Tho this is a lock right type, it is the type that uses stock side gears.
Supposedly the weaker type.
It came with a set of diffs, so I'll give it a try.
Will go back to welded if it gives out.
Was going to sell it, but would not feel right if it broke for somebody I sold it to.
Handling, function, smoothness of use are all great so far.
Gets a proper bush run this weekend.

christover

So far the Lock Right has been great.
Done a couple of hard core trips plus 1 Adventure Tour and still it works.
I would not like one in the rear ( no cooments please )
As I find it a little unpredictable at high speeds, but great at low to medium speeds.

http://winter2006.4wheelingoz.com/wi06H ... daFROG.htm

A build up article in 4wheelingOz.com

christover

GReat article will have to print it off!

I've got the lock rights front and rear of mine it's great! It'l get through any thing really. The only thing is i need power steering next so i can turn the thing!

On road the rear is good and only makes a noise as i roll into my driveway with the clutch in. In the wet it's great fun

how much movement (backlash?) do u guys have in the tailshaft rear when u get under and move it with your hand??
i have a powertrax 1 in the bak of my coily and it has nearley a 1/4 of a turn. is this right?

Will check for you tommorow when i was mine!

Zuki98 wrote:how much movement (backlash?) do u guys have in the tailshaft rear when u get under and move it with your hand??
i have a powertrax 1 in the bak of my coily and it has nearley a 1/4 of a turn. is this right?

I'm guessing the backlash is a function of the crown and pinion slop or worn axle splines, not the locker, but I could be wrong.

Mine has always had heaps of slack, in diffs, t-case and g box....It isn't right, should be minimal, but my slackness (car not me) has never caused any issues to date.

fitting the locker didn't change the slack in it.

christover

yeah slack is what i should have said. it hasent caused me problems yet either just wondering if it was normal?