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THERMOFAN-blown

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:43 pm
by flynn
so i FINALLY put the thermo in.
it was an easy install,
all that was involved was to remove the engine fan and the other crap thats in the way (about 10 nuts all up)
i took the radiator out and gave it a clean out, ALOT of mud!!!
the thermo sits perfectly inside the radiator so thats sweet
a couple of cable ties and nuts and bolts and it was in.

i hooked it up thru a relay and a switch, same way as hookin up spotties.
just gotta remember to turn it on when i start drivin. :lol:

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:45 pm
by flynn
some picks of the radiator before i cleaned it out
and the thermofan next to the air con fan

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:46 pm
by flynn
the thermo in.
(no wiring)

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:29 pm
by murcod
What size / brand thermo is it you've fitted and have you tried it out yet on a hot day?

And.... are you planning on automating it's operation by fitting a thermal switch?

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:59 pm
by flynn
i picked it up from the wreckers for $30 it was the biggest one there.
accordin to the bloke at the wreckers it was off a nissan

im happy with it at the moment but later on i do wanna change the wiring set up because 1. i know il forget to switch it on and 2. i dont want the relay to blow and leave me with only an air con fan to get me home.

iv tried it out on some pretty hot days and the temp stayed fine the only time it got closer to being hot was when i was foot to the floor along the highway for ova an hour.

i havent had a chance to test it offroad yet

il measure it tomoro

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 9:12 pm
by HotFourOk
Nice job flynn...

How does it attach to the radiator? I can see some cable ties at the top... any brackets or whatever? You cant exactly screw it in wherever. . lol.. Im interested in doing this too...

Even just cleaning that radiator would have made a big difference :lol: ... not much airflow would've been happening hey...

What was the main reason for you doing this? To take away the fan using power from the engine, or did the old one stuff up? Or is it just more efficient using thermo? Does it feel as thought it moves as much or more air than the old engine fan?

Cheers, Nick

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:02 pm
by Spartacus
he did it to be like one of the big boys... :roll:

nah we cut his fan up after he cracked n engine mount and every torque twist
it cut into the radiator hose going into the pump so we fixed with a gold can and x
amount of duct tape... then cut his fan down with a pair of tinsnips and thus
leads up to his current situation

Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 1:12 pm
by BundyRumandCoke
I've run two thermos for the last couple of years. One sandwiched between the intercooler and the radiator, and one behind the radiator. Both to the same manual switch. I rarely have to use them, even with the std fan removed. Usually only on steep hills when towing, or if bogged and giving it heaps in fwd/rev to get out. Low speed 4wding usually doesnt stress to motor enough to need it, and highway driving allows enough air from forward motion to cool the radiator.

Be wary of the mounts, I had my larger one mounted with bolts through the core. Hard 4wding up the cape allowed for movement, and the bolts rubbed into the core tubes, allowing a leak to develop. I have since redone the mounts, using flat bar, and the original shroud mounting holes.

Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 2:03 pm
by Area54
BundyRumandCoke wrote:I've run two thermos for the last couple of years. One sandwiched between the intercooler and the radiator, and one behind the radiator. Both to the same manual switch. I rarely have to use them, even with the std fan removed. Usually only on steep hills when towing, or if bogged and giving it heaps in fwd/rev to get out. Low speed 4wding usually doesnt stress to motor enough to need it, and highway driving allows enough air from forward motion to cool the radiator.

Be wary of the mounts, I had my larger one mounted with bolts through the core. Hard 4wding up the cape allowed for movement, and the bolts rubbed into the core tubes, allowing a leak to develop. I have since redone the mounts, using flat bar, and the original shroud mounting holes.
I've mounted mine the same way, but mine is slated for a big rebuild in the coming months… might be one of the things to change...

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 5:21 pm
by flynn
the measurements are 305mm tall, 340mm wide, and 100mm thick

when attaching it i figured sticking cable ties might to some damage.
so i checked it out and i could stick ties around the top but the bottom invovled connecting ties around some other objects, there is also a couple of brackets either side of the fan that bolt on to the radiator.
the fan has rubber connectors around the sides so that made it easier.

and yes cleaning the radiator made a HELL of a difference!!!

drivin around yes i can hear the wind blowin on the engine which is great coz at least i know its doing the job.

oh and mull thanks for the enlighting story. the short version is that sh1t happened so we had to cut the fan, my radiator got clogged with mud and i found a massive thermofan for $30.

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 5:33 pm
by flynn
i did it to remove the chance of what happened last time.
and plus it sucks more air thru the radiator and my engine is colder than before.

i have been told that the engine fan is better than a thermofan but for rockcrawling a thermofan is better.

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:17 pm
by murcod
flynn wrote: i have been told that the engine fan is better than a thermofan but for rockcrawling a thermofan is better.
Actually I'm beginning to wonder if that statement is true... my thermo doesn't perform as well as it should. Stuffed if I can work out why too- new thermostat, new radiator, and supposedly a new water pump fitted three years ago- but sitting still (or on >40 degree days) it will start to overheat. That's with a fully shouded ~13" thermo off a FWD 1.6 litre car and the aircon thermo running with it.

It shouldn't be happening! :bad-words: I'm beginning to think the car yard did a shonky with the water pump and it isn't circulating enough water at idle??? I didn't have any trouble with the old viscous fan at any temp when it was fitted about 18 mths ago.

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:09 pm
by nebivedu
murcod wrote: It shouldn't be happening! :bad-words: I'm beginning to think the car yard did a shonky with the water pump and it isn't circulating enough water at idle??? I didn't have any trouble with the old viscous fan at any temp when it was fitted about 18 mths ago.
In our country is the price for NEW original water pump(feroza) 30 EUR. For that small ammount of money i change water pump every 50.000km and i do not have any problems with it.

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:27 pm
by murcod
Well, I've narrowed it down. Drained all the coolant last night and then filled with distilled water and restarted. After above five minutes the gauge was rising and rising and rising..... The thermos kicked in, but it still kept rising.....

So I jumped in the car and revved it up to 3000RPM (by this stage the temp was 3/4) and within 30 -60 secs the temp had dropped right down and the thermos shut off!? So now I'm thinking the water pump is highly suss, unless the thermostat is stuck part open?

Any ideas?

I know a new pump won't be cheap and it's a PITA to replace. :( Thinking about it it has been getting worse slowly, even though I've been doing things to help it run cooler.

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 9:46 pm
by drewe
I had the water pump go on my Magna a bit ago - got so bad they got it off but had to reweld the mount (the pump had leaked and cause rust and @#$@# to build up)! It was that or a $300 new set of mounts and stuff! Still cost me $200 (would have been over 500 otherwise!)

But U R Right - if it only runs on higher revs, you gotta problem - have you disconnected the radiator and try and run water through just with a hose? To make sure no blockage in the head, pipes, etc?

Drewe

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:12 am
by murcod
Living in Adelaide I'm a bit hesistant to put ANY tap water through the engine. Our water is full of minerals and basically I reckon would cause more issues than it's worth - a fair bit of water can't be drained out of the block. I usually flush it out with about 20 litres or so of distilled water.

I did run one of those caustic flushes through it about two years ago. The coolant that came out is actually still in quite good condition- so I don't think the engine is clogged up.

I think I'll drain it again and rip out the thermostat to see if that makes any difference. The water pump is going to be a PITA, I think the timing belt has to come off to remove it. :cry:

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:26 pm
by murcod
Just read in the workshop manual that retarded timing can cause overheating........ and guess who's got the vacuum advance disconnected at the moment to stop pinging..... :oops:

Best I try reconnecting that first I think. :lol:

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 4:03 pm
by flynn
so takin in to consideration that about 3/4s of my radiator fluid is still water. but drivin at 100k on a highway with a loaded car (camping for a weekend stuff) the temp gauge rises rather quickly.

at 80ks it sits fine

just a heads up for those still interested in a thermo ill post up if there is any change if i put actually radiator fluid init.

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 4:10 pm
by SimplyPV
u are correct david, timing belt will have to come off in order to access the water pump. just be sure to mark which direction the belt turns. dont think it matters much if it is put back onto the exact same teeth it was on before. also, you'll have to take off your tensioner and at that time it would be a good idea to check it and see that it is in good nick or replace it otherwise it will chew up your belt shortly after. also be sure to put the belt on all the way but not so where it rubs against the block, hence chew the belt to pieces. good luck and have fun!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 5:11 pm
by murcod
Hi PV, the cooling issues have been vastly improved by reconnecting the vac advance. I have to wait until we get a another 40+ degree day to see what happens now.

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:43 am
by hot360
hi guy's -when your running thermo's there not miracle fans!especially if your just using cheapies from the wreckers.all thermos have flow rate's just like carbies and some thermos won't flow any better than a clutch fan!
where thermos help is @slow speeds when the motor isn't reving enough to suck hard enough with a std fan.
if you want KICK ARSE fans try a set of au falcon TWIN THERMO'S THEY COME IN A ONE PIECE SHROUD AND THEY REALLY SUCK HARD!!!!!!!!!!
IF YOU WANT TO TEST THE POWER OF YOUR FAN HANG A T-SIRT IN FRONT OF YOUR GRILLE and see how hard it pulls the t-shirt into your grille,...ps.i'd always check your thermostat first/try running the motor without it(its cheap&easy!)p.ss. 40deg..is hot!even brand new cars overheat on really hot days to? :idea: :D

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 5:51 pm
by murcod
Hi, the AU fans would be a tad too big for a Feroza / Rocky radiator. I also tried a "decent" brand name fan (ie. Davies Craig) and it was useless compared to my current set up. ;) Space is also an issue in a Feroza (depth) limiting choices.

I've owned a few new cars over the years and none of them have overheated on 42 degree days. Even the wife's 10 year old Excel doesn't, the aircon just doesn't work quite as well. :lol:

My issues are also when the engine is idling and at low revs- when the thermo should be able to easily out do the old viscous hub fan. I still believe I've got water flow related issues at low revs rather than the fan itself.

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 7:52 pm
by Patchy
flynn wrote:i picked it up from the wreckers for $30 it was the biggest one there.
accordin to the bloke at the wreckers it was off a nissan

im happy with it at the moment but later on i do wanna change the wiring set up because 1. i know il forget to switch it on and 2. i dont want the relay to blow and leave me with only an air con fan to get me home.

iv tried it out on some pretty hot days and the temp stayed fine the only time it got closer to being hot was when i was foot to the floor along the highway for ova an hour.

i havent had a chance to test it offroad yet

il measure it tomoro
your vehicle should never need a fan at all whilst its driving. As you will always get more air passing through it than any fan can supply due to the ram afect. the only time the fan is needed really is if your traveling slow. if your vehicle is over heating on a freeway there is prob something wrong

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:26 am
by BundyRumandCoke
Make sure with thermo fans, you have the fan mounted on the spindle the correct way, so it blows if mounted on the front, and sucks if mounted behind the radiator. Most, if not all fans, are reversable of the spindle.

Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:44 am
by flynn
and also it says on it face this way to front.
mine sucks major air its kick 'n' wing

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2006 1:12 am
by silverback
hi flynn,
i've had trouble overheating in my 95 widepack as well.tried shifting spotties,new thermostat,chemical flushes ,reverse flushes, shifted numberplate,took off bashguard,added 50ml of oil to thermo fan and even used rude words at it, but it still overheated on hot days at about 100 kph with the air con on.after being told my tx valve was faulty in aircon i took it to different bloke who checked radiator and told my radiator core was clagged. after a recore i have had no trouble at all even after a couple of 40 degree days here in perth.don't know if this helps but worth a look at.
regards

Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2006 3:48 pm
by flynn
thats probably it coz my radiator is old and crapy and if u look at the pics u can see it was clogged with mud.
when i first got the car the radiator had a hole in it that was patched up it still holds cost me $30 SO IT BETTER :bad-words: :bad-words: :bad-words:
il get a new one one day....if i remember....perhaps

Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 4:11 pm
by flynn
BLOWN!!!!!

just came back from glasshouse
i managed to make it home on the aircon fan worked like a treat
just connected it straight up to the battery.

but yeah the thermo died in the arse something fierce.

the story: been drivin thru a couple a creeks and in doin so blew the fuse for the gauges havin this happen before it didnt bother me.
nearin the end of the trip i stick a 30 amp fuse in the gauge fuse spot just to check how things are goin i watch the temp gauge rise all the way so that it becomes off the meter BOILING!!!! i turn off the car can hear the radiator bubbling hard, pop the bonnet to look after a few seconds of goin yep she's deffinetly f'ing hot. the radiator overflow bottle cap burts off and spits steam and radiator fluid everywhere (i wish i could say i hadnt seen it happen before) creatin a nice 'clowd' of steam covering the car.
once cooled down i checked out the thermofan and the motor had heated and blown, i tryed gettin it going and it was moving really slowly then stopped. me and another mate (both 1st yr app. sparky's) get crackin on rewiring the car so it will drive again (both of us with different ideas of course)
so we decided on usin the air con fan hooked straight to the batt. so it was constantly on. a bit of elecy tape here and some cable ties there and it was sweet.
the car ranged between 1/2 and 3/4 hot all the way home.

Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:07 pm
by chunderlicious
why didnt you just turn on the aircon dude, same principle just alittle less heat in the cabin?

Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:21 pm
by Nev
so now will you get a new radiator so this can stop being the end to our trips all the time! get rid of the crappy thermo...if ur radiator worked you wouldnt need one.