Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Car: 89 GQ patrol 4" lift (old springs) 2" body lift

previous condition: a few small knocks noticed in floor when the underside of car was wet, i assue body mount rubbers

Incident: bashing around in labertouche hard one day, noticed a large knock in front end, and the front end continued to make some horrible knocking and clucking noises up front.

Investigation: all radius arm bushes finally shagged. (ones at front and oens that mount to chassis).
So replaced all those bushes

Current condition: new bushes fixed te4h cluncking, yet a lot of knocking still exist. the knocking comes when ever I turn the steerign wheel or go over a bump. seems to be getting slightly worse.

Options: I'm going to replace the bolts that go through the body lift blocks with ti tensile unbreako cap screws and new nylocks. Will this help or should i be lookign at something else????


Extra info: castor bushes were taking out and standard bushes put in while i build drop boxes.

Help me stop this knocking it's driving me mad!

weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common

bundyrum4x4 wrote:weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common

yup, lift up the carpet, you will see the crack, if its bad you will see it from under the car.

bogged wrote:

bundyrum4x4 wrote:weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common

yup, lift up the carpet, you will see the crack, if its bad you will see it from under the car.

Not always, its covered in seam sealer

bundyrum4x4 wrote:

bogged wrote:

bundyrum4x4 wrote:weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common

yup, lift up the carpet, you will see the crack, if its bad you will see it from under the car.

Not always, its covered in seam sealer

mine you can :( Yet to be fixed

bogged wrote:

bundyrum4x4 wrote:

bogged wrote:

bundyrum4x4 wrote:weld the floor pan/fire wall seam

very common

yup, lift up the carpet, you will see the crack, if its bad you will see it from under the car.

Not always, its covered in seam sealer

mine you can :( Yet to be fixed

Leave it to long and you will never get rid of the knock, the floor stretches and can be a real pita to fix.

I would prob do 1 a month with this prob

bundyrum4x4 wrote:Leave it to long and you will never get rid of the knock, the floor stretches and can be a real pita to fix.

I would prob do 1 a month with this prob

how much?

bogged wrote:

bundyrum4x4 wrote:Leave it to long and you will never get rid of the knock, the floor stretches and can be a real pita to fix.

I would prob do 1 a month with this prob

how much?

Depends on how bad it is.

Between $100 & $200
Requires lifting of carpet, removal of seam sealer , welding, sealing, painting and re-fit carpet.

bundyrum4x4 wrote:

bogged wrote:

bundyrum4x4 wrote:Leave it to long and you will never get rid of the knock, the floor stretches and can be a real pita to fix.

I would prob do 1 a month with this prob

how much?

Depends on how bad it is.

Between $100 & $200
Requires lifting of carpet, removal of seam sealer , welding, sealing, painting and re-fit carpet.

going to replace carpet soon might try that Knox carpet place... might sus it all out in one go, also seat mount broken on drivers rear on tunnel

hijack but on topic - my floor has lots of little rust spots and holes, mainly along the outer edges. Was thinking a full interior strip, clean out, and seal with fibreglass and bitumen seal under. My concern with the fibreglass was flexibility, would it be a concern in smallareas, or is theere a better solution - P.S. I cant weld....... perhaps I should learn, oohh one day when I can fit it in.....

I personaly would weld in some new floor. The GQ floor pan is not the strongest.

decent grinder, mig welder 1mm to 1.6 sheet of steel ,

cut out the floor clean it up cut new sheet to just bigger then the cut hole tack it in place look at it if like mig it up run rust profing over it paint it

it what i'll be doing shortly to my roof the guttering and driver side is crap i just got to find some time, new bottle of argon for the mig, and some steel i supose

i had this problem a few weeks ago, heavy knock under driver floor, and a light nock under passenger floor,

i went around and replaced all body mount rubbers,
went and had a crack welded under drivers side carpet, floor and firewall,
then it was still there, so at thisa moment, im replacing all front radiius arm bushes, diff and chassis end, and also replacing boltrs and nuts at diff end,

will see hoe it goes,

EDIT Hasnt fixed it,

but maybe someone can add some ideas, i noticed if i bounce my truck, the diff doesnt move freely, it sort of clunks up and down whwn the suspension unloads, it may be other people prob as well, anyone have ideas???????????

Spring isolator pads or shock bushes(you could try tightening the nuts up on the pins if the bushes look good, they may haVe compressed over time)

found some major cracks in the floor pan and around the body mount.

so i'll try fixing them first

Something we found on a nissan that had done lots of rough miles was the panhard bolt to the chassis mount had worked loose and flogged the mount out, drove the driver nuts till it was found.
Had a similar issue myself with the rear mount for the front arm on the diff drivers side worked loose and would clunk as well.

Would it clunk as you got to full lock as everything loaded up, and then some times when cornering hard over a bumb, or under certain conditions of the road??

I though perhaps one of my swivle hub bearings was shot, but that could perhapes be the cause.

Hmmm.

Mine had the same noise. Check the tightness of the bolts holding the transmission cross member to the chassis. Mine were about a half turn loose and were the cause of the problem.

I was told to grind down a few mm of metal tube that runs thru the rubber body mounts if they were worn.

seems like this is a very common problem, mine does the same and have tried a couple of things mentioned with no luck. I can't see any cracks anywhere but I have a feeling it might be the bodymounts. Pretty expensive guess though, I'd like to be certain.

BigMav wrote:seems like this is a very common problem, mine does the same and have tried a couple of things mentioned with no luck. I can't see any cracks anywhere but I have a feeling it might be the bodymounts. Pretty expensive guess though, I'd like to be certain.

i have done exactly that, i replaced all body mounts, which didnt fix it, i then replaced all front radius arm bhushes and hasnt fixed it, now im gettin lost,

EDIT:::: just found 6 month old front shocks are shot, they seem to have a dead spot in them, will look into replacements on friday