G'day guys,
I have an LX model 70 series SWB cruiser with carpet interior. I've just body lifted it and in the process removed all the carpet as it would only get wet/muddy/dirty when 4 wheeling and made the b/l a bit easier. The underlay was actually damp when I removed it and it was a bit mouldy and rotten.
I'd like to know if anyone here has cleaned and sprayed the interior of their 4by. I seem to recall a while back that there were a couple of trucks in a 4x4 mag that had stripped interiors that looked pretty sweet. (possibly a hilux and a GU from memory??)
Any suggestions on paint (was thinking just standard exterior toyota white but perhaps a non-slip??) or sealers. Also.. does anyone know of an easy way to remove the bitumen sound deadening??
Thanks.
Dan
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stripping and painting the floorpan.
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
There were a few topics a while back regarding people putting 'rhino lining' type materials on thier floors and different type of tar substances..
They'll pipe up in a minute i spose
Found a few for you
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
They'll pipe up in a minute i spose
Found a few for you
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... =floor+tar
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
thanks hotfourok
cheers for those links.
I dont think I want to go spraying tar on the interior of my vehicle (in fact I'd like to remove the sound deadening mats that are in there as they are a bitumen based) The reason being that the tar based products tend to soften in high heat and whatever is sitting on them melts.
I'm not too concerned about the added road noise, I just want to make sure my 4by is easy to clean and wont be affected by some water/mud on the interior.
I'm thinking at this point the easiest and cleanest looking thing to do will be to just spray the floor with exterior paint and stick self-sdhesive grip-tape to the raised ribs in the foot wells..
I dont think I want to go spraying tar on the interior of my vehicle (in fact I'd like to remove the sound deadening mats that are in there as they are a bitumen based) The reason being that the tar based products tend to soften in high heat and whatever is sitting on them melts.
I'm not too concerned about the added road noise, I just want to make sure my 4by is easy to clean and wont be affected by some water/mud on the interior.
I'm thinking at this point the easiest and cleanest looking thing to do will be to just spray the floor with exterior paint and stick self-sdhesive grip-tape to the raised ribs in the foot wells..
Yeah sounds ok... rust proof it tho first i reckon..
The stuff that is used on sidesteps would be good for a bit of grip inside.. you can get it thin or like 100mm wide too.. its like skateboard grip tape
The stuff that is used on sidesteps would be good for a bit of grip inside.. you can get it thin or like 100mm wide too.. its like skateboard grip tape
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
in prepping a 1 tonner i have for a full repray some time ago i stripped every scerric of paint from it back to shiny metal. i then gave it a few coats of HURCULINER which is an epoxy type paint with a textured finish (not unlike having sand particals in your paint). this product is mostly used to paint on the inside of ute trays etc to protect them and stop stuff sliding round. however in my case it provided a full epoxy coating to the floor so it should never rust.
it is a brush or roller applied product and when dry you can paint it any colour you want. i believe i used 4L to do the inside and under the cab of my ute. warning: this stuff sticks like pooh pooh to a blanket.
it is a brush or roller applied product and when dry you can paint it any colour you want. i believe i used 4L to do the inside and under the cab of my ute. warning: this stuff sticks like pooh pooh to a blanket.
IF IT MOVES, SHOOT IT
IF IT DOESNT, CUT IT DOWN
IF ITS GREEN, PISS ON IT
IF IT DOESNT, CUT IT DOWN
IF ITS GREEN, PISS ON IT
It's hErculiner (not being a spelling Nazi, it's just that you might need to spell it exactly right to look it up online), and make sure you don't get any on your hootus!guzzla wrote:HURCULINER...
it is a brush or roller applied product and when dry you can paint it any colour you want. i believe i used 4L to do the inside and under the cab of my ute. warning: this stuff sticks like pooh pooh to a blanket.
Jason
This is not legal advice.
tar
To remove the tar sound deadener, get some dry ice from BOC gases or an industrial supply place and throw it on your floor and let it evaporate for a while. This will make the tar go hard and brittle then just hit it with a scraper or screwy and it should peel off relatively cleanly. 
Make sure you wear good gloves as dry ice will burn your skin quite nicely.... 
Make sure you wear good gloves as dry ice will burn your skin quite nicely.... Custom body work by trees and rocks...
" Where's the party Officer "
Ruff Gq wrote "and i am so stupid that i don't know how it is done."
" Where's the party Officer "
Ruff Gq wrote "and i am so stupid that i don't know how it is done."
Well I've removed the sound deadener pads!! After a fair bit of hard work...
82 Lux - I should have tried your suggestion but have been away from the site for a few days.. it wouldnt surprise me if it aided in the removal process as there was a definant change in 'degree of difficulty to remove' dependant on the weather temps. I've been working on it mainly at night when its a bit cooler so its been ok (bank on about 3-5 hours work!).
bazzle - yeah that was a bit of a concern but I can always put down the rubber floor mats.
Rhett - As per my second post thats why I've removed the bitumen based sound deadening mats. your right, any tar based product will soften and gather dirt and stuff so I've decided to steer away from that idea. Also if I spray any sort of thick liner eg: herculiner, then it'll also cover things like the seams of the sheet metal for the gearbox cover plate. I want to be able to remove this cover as its so much easier to get to the top of the gearbox by doing this, just in case any repairs need to be made.
I think a coat of rust proofer and some white paint is the way to go for me.. but first a bit of prep work and going nuts with the some sika.
Its amazing once you look at your fourby's sheetmetal work how many seams are not sealed.
Having done my graduate Engineering placement in the paint shop at Ford (broadmeadows) I have some good experience with the way thats vehicles are produced and know the areas that are typically difficult to seal (bottoms of a / b / c pillars, rear quarter panel seams, hatch hinges, a pillar to firewall.. the list goes on!) so I guess I'll go over it with a fine tooth comb and fix it good and proper!
Ah well, a bit of PM never hurt anything! and overkill is better than nothing!
82 Lux - I should have tried your suggestion but have been away from the site for a few days.. it wouldnt surprise me if it aided in the removal process as there was a definant change in 'degree of difficulty to remove' dependant on the weather temps. I've been working on it mainly at night when its a bit cooler so its been ok (bank on about 3-5 hours work!).
bazzle - yeah that was a bit of a concern but I can always put down the rubber floor mats.
Rhett - As per my second post thats why I've removed the bitumen based sound deadening mats. your right, any tar based product will soften and gather dirt and stuff so I've decided to steer away from that idea. Also if I spray any sort of thick liner eg: herculiner, then it'll also cover things like the seams of the sheet metal for the gearbox cover plate. I want to be able to remove this cover as its so much easier to get to the top of the gearbox by doing this, just in case any repairs need to be made.
I think a coat of rust proofer and some white paint is the way to go for me.. but first a bit of prep work and going nuts with the some sika.
Its amazing once you look at your fourby's sheetmetal work how many seams are not sealed.
Having done my graduate Engineering placement in the paint shop at Ford (broadmeadows) I have some good experience with the way thats vehicles are produced and know the areas that are typically difficult to seal (bottoms of a / b / c pillars, rear quarter panel seams, hatch hinges, a pillar to firewall.. the list goes on!) so I guess I'll go over it with a fine tooth comb and fix it good and proper!
Ah well, a bit of PM never hurt anything! and overkill is better than nothing!
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