Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The petrol tank (under the driver) on my LWB dual fuel maverick is causing me a couple of headaches during a 3" raised suspension installation.

Firstly, it's interfering with the rear prop shaft at full droop as the panhard pulls everything over to the right. This I will fix with a longer panhard rod.

Secondly, it's interfering with the upper driver's side radius arm - it won't let that side drop all the way.

Two fixes I can see - a new upper radius arm with a bend in it, or cutting a few inches off the back end of the petrol tank.

I have a couple of questions - firstly, has anyone had the same problem and if so what was the chosen fix. Secondly, if I have the two best options right, which one is going to be cheaper to get done?

I don't think I am going to cut and weld the petrol tank myself for obvious reasons, so I'd have to pay a pro to do this. Same goes for the bent arm really.

Any suggestions? Fitting this suspension is turning into a lot more of a PITA than I expected... but then what isn't? I've got my mechanic on it now as I have given up on doing the install myself.

Jason

chimpboy wrote:The petrol tank (under the driver) on my LWB dual fuel maverick is causing me a couple of headaches during a 3" raised suspension installation.

Firstly, it's interfering with the rear prop shaft at full droop as the panhard pulls everything over to the right. This I will fix with a longer panhard rod.

Secondly, it's interfering with the upper driver's side radius arm - it won't let that side drop all the way.

Two fixes I can see - a new upper radius arm with a bend in it, or cutting a few inches off the back end of the petrol tank.

I have a couple of questions - firstly, has anyone had the same problem and if so what was the chosen fix. Secondly, if I have the two best options right, which one is going to be cheaper to get done?

I don't think I am going to cut and weld the petrol tank myself for obvious reasons, so I'd have to pay a pro to do this. Same goes for the bent arm really.

Any suggestions? Fitting this suspension is turning into a lot more of a PITA than I expected... but then what isn't? I've got my mechanic on it now as I have given up on doing the install myself.

Jason

I HAVE COME ACROSS THIS BEFORE ON SUSPENSION LIFTS. EASIEST OPTION IS TO MODIFY THE TOP ARM

CHEERS JOHN

Had the same issue with mine, but I have diesel. I just slotted the tank and it has worked fine. Since then I moved the tank sideways slightly and now it binds again

i had the same issue also, so i took the tank out, and also coz it got massive rock rash and started bleeding for the 2nd time

hottiemonster wrote:i had the same issue also, so i took the tank out, and also coz it got massive rock rash and started bleeding for the 2nd time

Yeah mine is at risk of rock rash too. I was kind of thinking of getting a completely new tank made, using some heavier plate or something so that it's pretty invulnerable.

I dunno. I don't need all the fuel capacity it's got - it's more of an auxiliary tank for when I run out of LPG and so that I can carry jerry cans if necessary; I wonder if there's a car out there somewhere with a fuel tank that is just kind of rectangular that I could bolt in and shield with a big sheet of plate or mesh.

Might take a trip to pick-a-part and look around.

Jason

You could look at a suzi tank.... the vitara one was almost perfectly rectangular and held 40 litres. There's quite a few ones that are probably the right shape in passenger cars too.

Makes a good case for a body lift and hihger tank mounting.

i looked into this at the melb 4x4 they take a notch out of the tank
I was quoted 110 if i took the tank out and put back in

now i need to just remeber who they were LRT i think

yer i put 5 inch lift in and my tank hit the rear drivers upper arm.

put a post up about cutting tanks. cutzook pmed me and they shortened the tank buy bout 5 inch and now arm misses. was in a hurry so i missed a few things and the shaft only just rubs on it at full flex. crap

If i were to do it again id get thicker plate welded to the bottom and grind back the weld that my shaft rubs on. spose i could sit there with a file and take 3 - 4 mm off.

Was done by rods engineering in maroochydore qld for 130.

dwaynes wrote:i looked into this at the melb 4x4 they take a notch out of the tank
I was quoted 110 if i took the tank out and put back in

now i need to just remeber who they were LRT i think

If you can check who it was... that price doesn't sound too bad to me.

chimpboy wrote:

dwaynes wrote:i looked into this at the melb 4x4 they take a notch out of the tank
I was quoted 110 if i took the tank out and put back in

now i need to just remeber who they were LRT i think

If you can check who it was... that price doesn't sound too bad to me.

been searching for the bag with all the cards i got and cant find it. Pretty sure it is these guys
http://www.longrangeautomotive.com.au/

Got one of these aux. tanks in the garage, was going to put it in for extra fuel capacity for trip. Buying long range rear instead. Any know what to ask price wise for it? dont know what they are worth.

with a three inch lift and standard length shocks it should just miss the tank and has your tailshaft been turned around so the slip joint is at the rear?

you could use length of swaybar links to limit travel

chimpboy wrote:

hottiemonster wrote:i had the same issue also, so i took the tank out, and also coz it got massive rock rash and started bleeding for the 2nd time

Yeah mine is at risk of rock rash too. I was kind of thinking of getting a completely new tank made, using some heavier plate or something so that it's pretty invulnerable.

I dunno. I don't need all the fuel capacity it's got - it's more of an auxiliary tank for when I run out of LPG and so that I can carry jerry cans if necessary; I wonder if there's a car out there somewhere with a fuel tank that is just kind of rectangular that I could bolt in and shield with a big sheet of plate or mesh.

Might take a trip to pick-a-part and look around.

Jason

you could get a new tank made up to suit body lift to gain the extra clearance and then allow room for the upper arms although this would probably be pricey.

take the tank out yourself and mark where it needs to be notched.

and take it into a shop and have em do it and refit - costwise it'd be easier..

IMHO..

TOM

My upper arms are hitting my fuel tank after i put in the 3" lift on my GQ LWB, Will the upper arms be to weak if i bend them? I would rather do that than take out the fuel tank and get it modified.

i've got lwb gq and mine hit with 3in lift and no sway bar so i just got a new upper control arm thats got a bend in it so it does'nt hit anymore

If your tank is made of ally or stainless, its easy stuff to work with and modify. Id take the opportunity to pull the tank out mark it (like someone else said) then have it modified shouldnt cost a whole lot. While you are at it look at making further box sections where you can to increase your fuel capacity. Mine is a prick too, its only close to the prop shaft but any rear susp work usually means removing it.
Modifying tank will easily be cheaper than custom suspension work.