Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have a 75 series Ute with a 3 inch lift kit. I just purchased some Goodyear MTR's but they are just hitting guard on 3/4 lock. Do I need to go higher? I got some 15 x 10 sunraysia rims but am also struggling here. Seems I need spacers to clear the front caliper. Can anybody shed some light???

2in body lift and custon off set wheels and u really should run 16 in wheels as that was how they at toyota set up the discs i had a mate who had same prob and i told him about getting some one to cut the cut the centers off the rasias out and flip them over . there was a bloke at sumner park on jijaws st that used to do that it gives about anoter 1.5in . also check u got the right rims as some times they will sell u the 80 series rims which arnt as deep as the 60 series rims or a leaf 75.


jamie

The tyre joint tried a few different rims. I think I will give them back and go to a reputable 4wd shop for some proper rims. Apart from hitting the discs they were rubbing on the inner guard at 3/4 lock. Just went pear shaped from the start.

Anybody know what 15 x 10 rim will fit on a 98 HZJ75. Seems to be an offset problem?? What should the offset be??

If the 98 model has coils up front and is 5 stud then you should put on 16x8's with 315/75/16 tyres on it.

I put 15x8 75 series offset rims onto my 80 series, had to grind the rear calipers to get them on, is quite a common mod. you need to go 4 - 5 mm deep and about 15mm back from the outside edge with your grinding to clear 15x8s. 15x10s would require more grinding. might be worth looking at 16s

Paul

The guys at the tyre shop put 2 x 5mm spacers on the front which cleared the calipers but the outer diameter of the spacer was smaller than the ridge on the face of the rim. Meant that the rims didn't bolt up flush and had a huge woble in them. Was thinking about getting some proper wheel spacers. But would prefer rims that fit! The rears fit no problems without spacers.

The other problem was that the castor after the lift was -.4 degrees. I am hoping that with castor correction this will help the wheel clear the rear corner of the guard. Seems to be a cna of worms!

Regarding the caliper clearance issue, I find that some brands of rims foul the calipers and others of the same size and offset don't. It is a brand-dependent matter as the centres are shaped differently, those that are deeply dished clear it and some that are flatter foul it.

I also have 35" tyres in my 75 and with 2" of lift the tyre hits the guard before full steering lock. I drilled the spring perch and plates 30mm behind the original holes to allow mounting the diff forward.

These pics are not a good comparison as the before and the after were taken from different angles and different steering positions but just to give you some idea:

Before


After


Dave

Thanks Dave! I went to a reputable 4WD shop where they had 30 rims in stock that fitted. I am booked in Tuesday for a 3 inch body lift. That should see the problem finished!!

put a pic up once ya get it all done

I will put some pics up. Has cost me a fortune everytime I go near a 4WD shop. Bought it 3 months ago with 103,000 km on the clock. So far have 3 inch suspension lift, Front and Rear Detroits, Turbo, Intercooler, 35 inch MTR's, Cb's and CD palyers etc After 3 inch body lift hopefully will be able to have a rest and enjoy it!

hi guys i have a 75 with 35 claws and when i first put them on i cleard the guards with just a 2in lift and extended shackels but i now have a body lift and it does'nt even come close 2 scrubbing . it does top out in the top of the guards but that will soon be fixed bobby at all set springs is gunna pull the spring packs out put longer mains and wraps and reset the springs to 5 inches and it should flex much better and one other prob i had was the 3inch pipe off the turbo that comes threw the drivers side guard the tyre scrubbed on it so i cut some mount away pushed pipe up closer and its fine now and on the rear when the wheels flex up in the guard they hit the chaissie there is a round pipe that runs from one side 2 the other over the top of ya rear fuel tank u will see that it hangs out each side the tyres will rub on them and tear nasty chunks out ya tyres so grind them back if u can

i have 15x10 off a mates 75 but his was a 87 and mine dont touch the calipers and it a full disk break so i dunno there

how are you finding the detroit lockers. any probs or annoyances? any breakages?

would you still recommend them after having them for a while?

I had the car out in hills today over some big ruts. I rekon I would have had the back right wheel 4 foot of the ground at times. Was out with 5 other cars and the stuff I was going up they all just had to watch. The front is great because you can steer at all times. Plus you always have the benefit of the lockers, not just when your stuck or going straight line up a hill. Get the occasional click on the street out of the back but this is normal. I wouln't dream of not having a detroit.

Here's a picture from today. Can't wait for the bodlift and my 35's next week!!

Why not just trim the guard.

Yeah I thought about it. My brother in law is a panel beater of toyota. Don't realy want to have guards that look different. I will see how the bodylift goes and if I need extra guards will be next!

A few more pics!

Where are you from Baddboy?

I am in Perth. Good tracks here but a serious lack of good 4wd support. Its good if you just want a bullbar and spotlights. If you want to go any further than that it gets difficult!!

Looking good, Baddboy. I reckon if you can let the front tyre stuff further into the guard, you can keep the rear from lifting as much. What keeps the front from flexing anymore than that?

Dave

take off the front sway bar and it will make a hell of a difference

Thanks Tuff75! Sway bars off today! I will take her out next weekend with the 3 inch bodlift and 35 Goodyear wrangler MTR's and get some diffinitive pictures. I am still not happy with the articulation although much better than before. Will see what no sway bar does! Anymore tips would be greatly aprreciated!!

could just re drill the front diff plates with new centrebolt holes to move the diff forward slightly, to stop the rubbing.

My 78 series I reamed the control arms to take castor correction bushes, moving the diff forward 14mm for the 36x13/16 TSL's i ran, on 10" rims, and fitted rear bump stops to the front, which were 20mm longer, and a 10mm body lift to stop them hitting fully articulated, and used 105 series front shocks, to gain more droop for the bump stop restricting up travel, but had to fit sway bar spacers, to stop the tail shaft rubbing on it.

baddboy, are you still having artic problems???
I found just about all brands of springs for the rears way to stiff. If you want more flex from your rears try looking for the lightest rear spring you can buy, or since you all ready have a 3in lift try removing leafs from you spring packs. this does have draw backs, since you 75 is'nt a comp truck you probably still want to load stuff on to you tray. having lighter springs will mean you can't carry as much weight, unless you fit one one the many air bag systems on the market. another alternative is to yank out your main, second and third leafs and have a spring shop make up a set of leafs 2in longer and run a set of 2in extended shackles, this will increase wheel drop. Drop shackles have the same effect. DON'T FORGET BUY SOME NEW EXTENDED BRAKE LINES. your next major drama will be rear tyre clearance, easy soultion is to buy 3in wheel spacers from some one reputable like superior engineering. their web address is www.superiorengineering.com.au or a slightly more expensive way is to buy a set of custom offset rims, this is less likley to attract the attention from the lovely guys at the RTA.... The last issue you should have is your shock travel, you can simply just fit longer shocks, but what you gain in drop you loose in compression. The result is having to fit blocks under your bump stops to stop you shocks bottoming out(VERY BAD). If you or one of you mates are a bit handy with a welder, relocate your top shock mounts to the middle of you rear shock bar and fab up some new bottom mounts to weld to your diff, or you could just buy a u-bolt flip kit from (again) superior engineering, they retail for about $590. U-Bolt Flip kits are designed to give maximum advantage over obstacles by gaining ground clearance from simply removing the original shock mounting brackets. This kit comes complete with front and rear u-bolts,front and rear flip plates, front and rear shock mounts, front shock hoops. this is NOT a spring over conversion..... and should allow a 36in shock to be fitted to most trucks. I hope that some or all of this information can help you gain most flex from your truck........ happy 4 wheeling
p.s no i don't work for superior engineering...
p.p.s don't forget to turn your front drive shaft around so it does'nt hit on your gear box cross member, you'll under stand what im talking about when you climb under there and have a look, (thats if you have not allready done it)
GO THE 75's

Thanks for that reply. I am going to have to read that a few times in order to take it all in.

I have taken a few photo's. Not sure if the front ttail shaft is in the correct orientation?? Also have some front and rear suspension picks. At the end of the day I want a truck that articulates like a mother. What I want to do is pick the best way to go and stick to it. Not worried by cost, I want quality and results. I live in Perth so not sure if any local help around. You will see what sort of articulation I was getting by photo's above. Help appreciated. Help me spend money!!

Couple more