Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The search has been my friend.

BUT,

Can some one post a decent sized picture for me of a SWB gq with 35's, side on??

Pictures speak a thousand words ya know.

I want to see one that has had the usual, 2" S/L and 2" B/L.

Kinda like the one down the bottom of this page:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hlight=35s

From what i can gather, this has 35's on it in the picture. Is that correct??

And it looks like its had the minimum done to fit them, 2" coil lift??

I don't want to do the body lift, so i'm thinking of just limiting upwards travel and going from there.

My approach is buy the tyres, and them make em fit the easiest way possible with out going higher

I have PM'd Screwy

You need a bare minimum of at least 4" lift either suspension or bodylift. Stick with 33"s the most with 2" suspension and you still will not get good flex out of it without rubbing.
Read your attached link and some people have 5-6" lifts with 35" and they rub
Or you could cut rear gaurds and remove front ones.

33"s will get you most places anyway.

Yeah, thats what my problem is with the data from the Search, you get al sorts of people saying , yeah i have this and that and the other,5", 10", 0" etc etc and it doesn't really get you anywere. I know the recommened is a 2"+2" formula for the 35's.

I don't want anymore lift. The trucks huge enough as it is. I runn 33's, no scrubbing to speak of, ever.

I have removed my rear quarters, so no scrubbing there with the 35's i hope.

The back of the front gaurds is the next place i presume i will have problems.

But then you see a photo, as at the bottom of the link i posted, claiming
to have 35's on it, and it all looks pretty good to me.

I guess, the ideal would be to find some one with 35" pede's and fire them on and see what happens.

Thats the front fully compressed, heaps of room: (33's)


Bad photo, but you can kinda see the room at the rear.

here is my rear can compress another couple of inches




Here it is standing tall


no ones of the front under compression

but the above pics at 2" sus + 2" body

Thanks, your a legend, thats what i wanted to see!!!!!!!

GASDRX wrote:You need a bare minimum of at least 4" lift either suspension or bodylift. Stick with 33"s the most with 2" suspension and you still will not get good flex out of it without rubbing.
Read your attached link and some people have 5-6" lifts with 35" and they rub
Or you could cut rear gaurds and remove front ones.

33"s will get you most places anyway.

You can fit 35-36" tyres with a 3" lift if you are willing to cut the guards.

DieselBoy wrote:The search has been my friend.

BUT,

Can some one post a decent sized picture for me of a SWB gq with 35's, side on??

Pictures speak a thousand words ya know.

I want to see one that has had the usual, 2" S/L and 2" B/L.

Kinda like the one down the bottom of this page:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hlight=35s

From what i can gather, this has 35's on it in the picture. Is that correct??

And it looks like its had the minimum done to fit them, 2" coil lift??

I don't want to do the body lift, so i'm thinking of just limiting upwards travel and going from there.

My approach is buy the tyres, and them make em fit the easiest way possible with out going higher

I have PM'd Screwy

i got no PM from you......

But yeh. my GQ shorty in those pics, has only got an old 2 inch spring lift kit and the 35s on it. does not scrub on road, does offroad in a large way....

screwy

to give you an idea, this pic is with 6" springs and 33" MTR's

the actually touched the rear of the guard on compression,

the reason they may have cleared the front guards easier, is most people put spacers on the control arms to move them forward 12mm... then the rear of front tire clears guard easily.

If your truck is "huge enough as it is." why go bigger tires?

Because everyone runs 35's or 36's here, so if you are running smaller tyres, you don't get very far when the track is to tight to stay out of the ruts, which is more often than not the case.

Looks like body lift time.

Bugger

DieselBoy wrote:Because everyone runs 35's or 36's here

no they dont. But i see that the peer pressure is high..

Not 100% sure but i think DieselBoy might mean that most of the trucks he runs with have 35's along with a lot of other people, and because of this the ruts are getting quite deep (to deep for 33's) and because the tracks are so tight he cant get out of them and drive along the side or the high parts without hiting a tree etc.

maybe this isnt what he means but i have found this to be my problem on a lot of the tracks i go wheeling on.

cheers
Sam

Not much ground clearance diff between 35s and 33s.
If every one keeps getting bigger NO tracks will be passable. Buy a spade and knock the corners off the ruts.

Bazzle

I'm agreeing with bazzle & bogged. $hits me when I can't pass through because of deeeeeep ruts.


Keep it real

This is mine side on with 35x10.5 ETs with 2" spring lift and all 4 guards cut. No body lift.

Lord Bazzle is correct. The difference in height is negligible. The places I can get to after switching to 35's from 33's are like a bees dick further. They do like much better. Makes the vehicle look almost stock, but big..

If you have 33's and they are not rubbing at all then you must have extended your rear bump stops a lot or haven't fully flexed the rear. They rub on the inner wheel arch.

I put 35" mtrs on my 4" tough dog sus lift. The front cleared with no spacers and I haven't been able to get them to rub, have landed heavy after some dune action and nothing. The rear rubbed on the rear, I simply trimmed the offending panels off. You are no doubt, inevitablly, going to trim your rear quater panels off and wrap around a custom bar so just cut the rear were necessary.

At full flex in the rear the tyres rub on the inner wheel arch (ie; body ) and chassiss. Only extending your bumpstops can alleviate this.

If I had my time over I would go a simple 2" Old Man Emu + 2"bdy and run 33's. Strengthen the crap out of trailing arms etc. But I have invested too much $$$ into current setup.

Pics too come...

Edit: Oh yeah when I had 33's there was another chappy who had the aformentioned 2" sus + 2" bdy on 33's as well. When pulled up beside each other he was actually a little higher. Your 2" may be a slightly more raised than just 2" combine that with a body lift and you have heaps of room... or chop

heres my little beasty with the 35s and bunnings flares, only scrapes a little bit

I have BFGoodrich AT's in 35x12.5x15 on Landcruser 15x8 Sunnies. 2" Sus and 2" Body lifts, i have had little to no scraping at all and i have pushed this baby up on full flex going over single tyre log bridges in the wattagans and i can say that the 6" lift rule isn't a definate. Pushing the body off the chassis the 2" gives a bit more leway as that 2" will not compress, so you alwaya have 2" clearance, no matter what. I am going to put the car to 6" sus lift just to make it a monster truck (total of 8" lift), but for the time being, i am pretty happy with the 2x2 lift and 35's, gets me anywhere i want to go at the moment.

NZ4x4 wrote:Not 100% sure but i think DieselBoy might mean that most of the trucks he runs with have 35's along with a lot of other people, and because of this the ruts are getting quite deep (to deep for 33's) and because the tracks are so tight he cant get out of them and drive along the side or the high parts without hiting a tree etc.

maybe this isnt what he means but i have found this to be my problem on a lot of the tracks i go wheeling on.

cheers
Sam

Exactly!!!!!


You know the funny thing.

All up, counting the new set of tyres, and the bits and pieces for the body lift, it would more than pay for an ARB locker for the rear.

But an extra 5cm under the diff will make adifference no matter what!!!!!


So from the pic's, it looks like the the rear quarters need trimming. I have mine removed, so thats all good.

The rear of the front gaurds need a trim, and the radious arms can be spaced forwards 12mm.

The difference in the cuts required between the guy with the 50mm sus lift and the guys with the 2+2's seems bugger all.

My 33's don't rub and my bump stops are spaced down along way in the rear to deal with the long travel tough dog shocks. Haven't bothered with the front cause the front hardly moves anyways

So the picture that is starting to form is that yes, it can be done with just a sus lift, the amount of trimming required is related to the bump stop position (goes with out saying), a 2+2 lift is preferable, but that still requires gaurds to be cut to a certain degree, but not 50mm less than you would have done if you didn't have the body lift.

Alot for me to think about a weigh up. Thanks for the constructive input people...........................................

Cheers,
Pete.

DieselBoy wrote:But an extra 5cm under the diff will make adifference no matter what!!!!!

I may be missing something, but going from 33s to 35s doesn't get you an extra 5cm of diff clearance. You'd need 37s for that.

Jason

chimpboy wrote:

DieselBoy wrote:But an extra 5cm under the diff will make adifference no matter what!!!!!

I may be missing something, but going from 33s to 35s doesn't get you an extra 5cm of diff clearance. You'd need 37s for that.

Jason

Shhhhhhhhhhhh...... hes in lala land... hes happy, thats all that matters.. the disappointment will come later.

lalalalalalalalalalalalala

I didn't here you lalalalalalalalala

Can i just say i hit the wrong key????


lalalalalalalalala

2.5cm can make a world of difference.

NZ4x4 wrote:2.5cm can make a world of difference.

mates missus said the same thing.

bogged wrote:

NZ4x4 wrote:2.5cm can make a world of difference.

mates missus said the same thing.

Thats why she left you, and hooked up with your mate

we all know that 35's are better for offroad than 33's. yes there are some arguements but if that is what it is for (offroad) then 35's are better. and they climb over things much easier than 33's.

If you want to fit 35's then go for it, fit a 2"BL and trim the guards to suit.

there is a reason that comp trucks run 35"+ tires.

Go for it DieselBoy!!!

NZ4x4 wrote:there is a reason that comp trucks run 35"+ tires.

because they are in competitions on courses set to be difficult, and hard and not just out for a drive?

Thought i would chuck a pic or 2 of mine on here

4" spring lift, 2" body lift

Awesome thanks!!!

EricB wrote:This is mine side on with 35x10.5 ETs with 2" spring lift and all 4 guards cut. No body lift.

Eric, if you get some time, do you think you could post a close up of the front and rear wheel arches on your truck??

I reckon i can squeeze them in with a little pit of work at the front end and thats all.