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Starter relay?

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 1:24 pm
by Loanrangie
The missus's 89 2.2ltr 626 wont start, new battery fitted as seemed likely cause, still wont crank at all, fuel pump is whirring away but not even a click out the starter. Trying to find the starter relay if there is one, starter will be a biatch to get out so trying to avoid if possibel.

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 4:35 pm
by mud4b
it will more than likely be the starter solinoid.

it is located on the starter.. :D

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 5:06 pm
by Loanrangie
Thats what i thought but without a manual wasnt sure if it had a realy or not.

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 9:04 pm
by -Scott-
Solenoids (the small can-shaped thing attached to the starter) have a nasty habit of sticking. Beat the crap out of it with a pipe :armsup: and see if that shakes it loose.

Scott

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 11:35 am
by Loanrangie
Ok, i think if i can rebuild a motor and do a couple of lpg conversions i will know a solenoid is and where to find it :D . Anyway it is a pita to get to but the old tap it with a hammer worked so is it worth me pulling the solenoid apart and greasing it or just be done with it and replace it, it has never been any trouble before this hiccup.

Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:59 pm
by wayne74
if ya pull it out id be checking ya brushes too

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:22 am
by murcod
Loanrangie wrote: the old tap it with a hammer worked so is it worth me pulling the solenoid apart and greasing it or just be done with it and replace it, it has never been any trouble before this hiccup.
DON'T apply any grease - that's what causes them to seize as it attacts dust , dirt, grit etc. I was told by a guy who rebuilt them for a living to use silicon spray or nothing at all.

I overhauled mine as it was sticking about two years ago and it's been fine since. I used aerosol silicone spray as a lubricant after thoroughly cleaning it all.

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 12:57 pm
by RaginRover
seriously just buy a replacement starter or solinoid and fit it- I pulled the solinoid down and lubed it twice with lanox in my 626 and then my brother in law bought it - had the same thing - from memory an exchange starter complete with solinoid was $150 - Ashdowns.

Tom

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 7:25 pm
by fool_injected
The solinoid performs two functions
1. It 'throw' the drive gear to engage with the fly wheel
2. Its a relay to supply the motor

If you get the click click but no start its the throw out part which could mean the coil is breaking down or the motor brushes are stuffed or the motors windings are stuffed

If you dont even get the click its the contacts in the relay part

Either way it needs replacing

Because you hit with hammer I would say it's just the solinoid
As mentioned a new(reco) starter is beeter as the motor has new brushes and bearings
But if you think the motors still good you can but just the solinoid seperatley ( just got a reco'd one from the local auto elecy for $30)

cheers
wayne

Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 4:14 pm
by Loanrangie
I rang a local auto lec, he said he can rebuild the solenoid for about $50 or a changeover starter for $140. I will take it out and get it looked at, if it will last another year or so i'll just get the solenoid done.

Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 6:09 pm
by murcod
You guys are all boring.....

What's wrong with getting your hands dirty and investigating how things work (or don't work.....) and then fixing it yourself? :D

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 9:31 am
by Loanrangie
If its my car yes i will pull it apart and fix myself, the swmbo's car, that has priority as its my life on the line !

Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 9:16 pm
by SWAT
Do you know if it is a reduction Starter?

If it is the problem is most likly Solenoid Contacts around $25 and easy to fit

if not then the problem is most likley Brushes or a Voltage drop to the opperaiting wire for Mazda is known for, and can be fixed by wiring in a relay around $10

Tapping the starter will cure both problems when tapped

Let me know if you would Like to know more :)