Page 1 of 1
RR
Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2002 9:14 pm
by Dozoor
Well have started playing,first cut on the chassis is done ,fuel tank now removed chassis rails equal to rear of rear wheel had no springs in it when we brought it home ,lifted rear passengers wheel til the other was about to rise ,500mm of travel on the rear, have since obtained a set of light rate 2" over springs ,questions The rear upper ball joint on the a frame is there one available with more movment ? It looks ok to remove the load compensater thing without any ill affects ?is there an alternative rubber mounts for the lower control arms and other bits?I have no rear spring locater plates so i will make some locator cones,
Game plan ,keep as close to stock as possible ,visualy .but need to free up some extra inchs.
How do i tell what model i have, I think its a 1974 ,it has a mechanical fuel pump?,had a quick look for the chassis number only refrence is on the radiator support panel is there one on the chassis? Hope you guys don't mind all the questions
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 12:10 am
by JK
Keep it coming Larry. Can't wait to see this rig...
JK
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 7:59 pm
by Dozoor
Ha JK ,This is working out to be more fun than i thought hehe.
Outside my front door i have the rolling chas with 2" springs sits right up no wieght, has the motor still in it,and and and an Lj body cut just behind the doors ,no screen and no front end just a v8 hanging out in the breeze haha, looks the part so far . All the mountings look to be fiarly simple to fab or bootie fab lol,Have decided to keep original wheelbase .will give you more bullshit as it happens ,wish i had dig cam might buy super cheapy just for this .
Ps there was a white v6 zook in woodpeker , It was the top point scorer, but came fourth i think ,looking good .Not long now you'll be back .
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 8:08 pm
by JK
Awww jeez, I wanna be there now...
I bet she looks like a real beast
I have a digi and we can take heaps of pics when I get back from HK. Although I recommend that you buy a cheapy. You will use it heaps more than a film camera and they are so useful.
Only 24 sleeps to go... reminds me of the countdown to TTC heh heh
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 10:38 pm
by Bush65
The chassis number (SAL..............) is stamped on the drivers side rail ahead of the panhard rod mount.
Yes, the load leveler can be removed - some recommend removing it. The cost $$$ to fix so just remove it.
load lev
Posted: Fri Nov 29, 2002 5:37 pm
by Dozoor
Thanks john , The less wieght the better!
Jk ,might even check those ones you can use as a web cam to ,could have cuttin n slashin on line hehe.
Re: load lev
Posted: Fri Nov 29, 2002 5:51 pm
by JK
Dozoor wrote:Jk ,might even check those ones you can use as a web cam to ,could have cuttin n slashin on line hehe.
Yeah, not only web cam but also helmet cam / mountain bike cam... MudCow cam
pic
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2002 6:52 pm
by Dozoor
Oh well ,got some pics just need to get the woman up the street to down load em n we'll be sweet.
Got a good storm earlyer exellent would of helped if i had finished working on my zook .common you rover guys how do i tell what fr&^in year this thing is was hunting around on the net and seams no electric fuel pump no power steer puts it 72 or 73?,had no tire placard ,or adr plate? help!:)
JK do us a big down hill with jumps n stuff ,time laps style cam ,you know a shot every couple seconds!
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2002 9:07 pm
by madrangie
no power steer or electric fuel pump be a earlier 70's i looked at a 74 which had no power steer i think power came in 75 . either way if you buying a rover don't buy be4 1980 lots of elec probs under dash fires all the good stuff . Word of advice for anyone looking at buying a rangie drop the panel under the steering wheel look at the loom if it has be butched forget it , unless you are willing to clean the loom up yourself .
Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2002 8:40 am
by bobtail
throw that load leveler at your mate,s dog there only for heavy loads The mec fuel pump sounds like you have a car motor Have a look for the engine no if it,s on the back of the block near the bell houseing pas side The ball joint you can relieve around the edges of the joint with a die grinder Or you can buy an off road trailer coupleing both will work You will have to cut the lower trailing arm bracket ;s off the chassis move them foward and up ( a bout 200ml ) keep the same angle jus cut the arm,s weld solid bar inside and sleave the out side with thick wall pipe Any rangie power steer will fit
RR
Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2002 4:35 pm
by LOCKY
Am currently making a drop down bracket for the ball joint mount on Rangies. Will post pics when done. Takes the binding out along with some other advantages as well.
Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2002 10:08 pm
by Damo
Those load levelers weigh a bloody ton! Actually, the whole a-frame assembly is very well built, you'd be doing pretty bloody well to break one of them. I reckon the whole setup weighs about half what my zook does!!!
Ball joint mount
Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2002 6:48 am
by HSV Rangie
Locky,
How much are you raising the a frame.
I am lifting mine about 75mm used 10mm plate and bar stock.
will also be making new trailing arms (adjustable in length).
Have a spare set of front radias arms that will be cranked to realign front pinion. Then try rotating the swivel housing to set castor.
Hows it all going you on the road yet.
Regards
Michael.
RR
Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2002 9:53 pm
by LOCKY
About 8 hours left to finish conversion. Minor Wiring, exhaust and some heater hoses will finish it. Has cranked over and raised oil pressure etc. Auto elec coming on the weekend to finish.
Dropping 75mm and back 50 mm on the a frame ball joint mount. Leaving arms stock front and rear, shimming rear mounts to take pressure off bushes. On My 90 I rewelded the mounts but will keep this one on stock. On the front am lowering the front diff mount 25mm which will restore castor.
pics
Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2002 5:43 pm
by Dozoor
I put some pics under general tech /thread under Rouki. hope there still there!