Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi am now thinking about a 6 inch lift in my 80 series anyone know how much is involved in terms of other things that need modifying to do this. i gather i have to have castor plates extended brake lines and adjustable panhards but are there any mods to tailshafts swaybars or trailing arms ect thanks.

What sort of 80?

you'll have to extend the swaybar links if you plan on keeping them on

ITS A 4.5 PETROL GXL

In that case you will need to install a double cardan joint on the front drive shaft. Cost me $500

To do it properly you need the pannies and flip arm plates on the front, you can use the lower plates but it is a compremise on the angle of caster...as it will still be heaps positive....if you keep the swaybars you need to space down, and the top arms on the rear diff should also be shortened or adjustable to get the right tailshaft angles...oh yeh, the double cardon front shaft or marks 2wd conversion, either will do.
Andrew

Like they said,
panhards, drop ya sway bars down, lengthen brake lines, and a double card in the front shaft..

It is easier to use the castor plates but mine with 7" springs and castor plates drove like crap...

So i did a flip arm on mine.. the best thing i ever did to it to get my driveability bak but it is a bit of stuffing around..

dow50r wrote:the top arms on the rear diff should also be shortened to get the right tailshaft angles...
Andrew

Hey Andrew, if you shorten the top arms, wouldn´t you actually be lowering the diff flange even more? (creating a bigger angle) I thought you had to extend them.

Ulises

udm wrote:

dow50r wrote:the top arms on the rear diff should also be shortened to get the right tailshaft angles...
Andrew

Hey Andrew, if you shorten the top arms, wouldn´t you actually be lowering the diff flange even more? (creating a bigger angle) I thought you had to extend them.

Ulises

Because the diff rotates up it creates a weird angle.. the flangeon the diff and the flange on the t case need to be close to parallel (i think)

but i havent botherd doin this with mine and it makes no noise at all,

crankycruiser wrote:

udm wrote:

dow50r wrote:the top arms on the rear diff should also be shortened to get the right tailshaft angles...
Andrew

Hey Andrew, if you shorten the top arms, wouldn´t you actually be lowering the diff flange even more? (creating a bigger angle) I thought you had to extend them.

Ulises

Because the diff rotates up it creates a weird angle.. the flangeon the diff and the flange on the t case need to be close to parallel (i think)

but i havent botherd doin this with mine and it makes no noise at all,

So that´s what it was all about... you need diff and transfer flange to be parallel.
I aint got any probs there, lucky in that aspect, was just wondering.

Thanks
Ulises

i fitted adjustable upper and lower control arms on the rear coz when its lifted you actually shorten the wheelbase, by having the adjustables im able to push the diff back whilst also getting both flanges paralell.

i put the snake racing arms in the front and whilst i have no dramas with them i would go the flip arm if i had by money to spend again though will probably to it later anyway.

guzzla wrote:
i put the snake racing arms in the front and whilst i have no dramas with them i would go the flip arm if i had by money to spend again though will probably to it later anyway.

I put the flip arms in mine becasue it was cheaper... cost me all of about $180 o do the flip arm... and the high steer cost $700, which is a good idea to have even if u dont havethe arms flipped..

after having a 6inch lift before in my 80 I would not recomend it unless you have a couple of grand minimum to spend on top of the basic kit to get things right.

udm wrote:

dow50r wrote:the top arms on the rear diff should also be shortened to get the right tailshaft angles...
Andrew

Hey Andrew, if you shorten the top arms, wouldn´t you actually be lowering the diff flange even more? (creating a bigger angle) I thought you had to extend them.

Ulises

Yeah, best to keep the angles thesame as the unis cancel eachother out and you dont get accelerated wear in the slip joint...also, with big lifts, the rear springn seats are not parallel to eachother, and the springs are curved, so the top arms remedy this.....ive also tried the longer lower arms, and this works aswell, but when you run 35 tyres, they rub at the back of the wheelarch on full articulation.
Andrew

which part are you fellas actually refering to when you say flip arms and describe the mod

They're talking about the radius arms. Flipping them on top of the diff housing.

hi again all.if i fit dx or povo pack tailshafts would this remedy the cardon joint problem .ive seen in other forum where povo packs have a longer tailshaft and no need for couble cardy .also dothe steering arms ie relay rod /steering dampener ect need to be modified. thanks muds

Muds, the rear shaft on a pov pack is 35mm longer because there is no centre diff in the transfer. the frot shaft is thesame length but no d/c is needed because it only turns when you lock in the free wheeling hubs...this is what i have had on a 6 inch lift no problems.
You would be heaps better off going with a 4 inch lift and a 2 inch body...same lift, but weighty bits are 2 inches lower and no need for any special suspension or driveline other than the pannies.
Andrew

ok thanks.do you know of a good place to get body lift from. and anywherethat will engineer it in n.s.w. is it real hard to do yourself .thanks muds