Outer Limits 4x4 Board

AAaaarrrggggh gearbox is crunching real bad going into 3rd from 4th (fine going 2-3) and doesn't want to go 4th-5th, have to double clutch and really push hard Any chance thicker oil will make it go away? Or am i right in thinking its the syncro gears on 4th that have crapped themselves???

sounds like some thing has gone
but im not expert
you could try a thicker oil
if all else fails and doesnt fix go to a gear box place and take some one for a drive and see what they trhink it is
cheers
elliot

Clutch adjusted?

Clutch adjusted?

a thicker oil IMO wont help a crunchy box (possibly make it harder), Penrite make an additive to help with 'baulking' in gearboxes.

i have heard of people running thinner auto transmission fluid in problem boxes, but i havnt tried it myself so wouldnt know if thats feasable or not.... ?

Try some Nulon Gearbox additive man... it eases the syncro noise from gearboxes.. its about $15 for a tube.. while your at it you should drop your old oil and put in fresh stuff if it hasnt been done for a while.
Short of pulling it apart.. try Redline Leighweight Shockproof oil... this is the bees knees of gearbox oil..
Last resort is take it to a gearbox specialist and they will rip it out and charge you heaps.

Sounds like it's past help and the money would be better invested in a rebuild? I was going to say try Redline, but at $33 a litre it's an expensive experiment on what sounds like a hopeless cause???

Auto trans fluid (or a blend- Dexron II is the one to use IIRC) may help , but Redline works better from my experiences.

My Seca was crunching hard into 2nd gear.. the manual gearbox specialist said it needs a new synchro.. was gonna cost $800 at the minimum.

I dropped the oil and put in some Penrite gear oil and it has never made any noises since! I also added some Nulon additive later on as a preventative measure. This was about 2 years ago now.

So it cost me $20 instead of $800 and its good as gold.
So just change the oil first and see if there is any difference... a bottle of gear oil isnt very dear.

Dropped the gear oil today, funny thing is, as i was driving to the shops to get more oil, no crunching (about 2k's)... get in shop, get oil, start driving to friends house (2k's)... CRUNCH CRUNCH , so when its really cold it doesn't do it Dropped the oil, the oil came out a dreaded browny-grey colour so sumhow i got water in there again x5000.... but displays none of the symptoms it did the LAST time i got water in there (last time it mad this continual knocking noise cause a gear started loosing its teeth), its totally different. Starting to get worse too, going into 5th as i let the clutch out it makes a bit of a rattle (bit faint but its there), and then downshifting into 2nd sumtimes it doesn't want to go in, it doesn't crunch but I can feel the lever 'bump' along the cogs. Sooooo part of me thinks synchro gears, and part thinks clutch (as Chev pointed out)

any1 know whats the cost to replace pretty much everything u can in a gearbox?? Just parts not inc labour etc? Getting sick an tired of Gbox probs so want to do everything and once.

RockyF70 wrote: any1 know whats the cost to replace pretty much everything u can in a gearbox??

A lot ... lol especially being a Rocky.. which it is just dandy to find parts for

I tend to think it is lubrication given that you are having probs with different shfts at different times and that cold oil went ok.

It is a cable clutch isn't it? How much freeplay does it have? Is the friction point about 1-2 inches down or more closer to the carpet? It is simple to tighten the cable if needed and can cause problems in all different shifts. If the clutch has been worn, it can also perform better when cold.

Otherwise, if it is the obx, the Nulon stuff is good value. It may help and is only $15.

To adjust the cable, just pull it away from the firewall and move the circlip up 1 or 2 places.

Just looking for a cheap answer before you last out with the $$$s

will try nulon crap tomorrow, but filler plug is on the side of the box, hope it aint just a plain bottle ...I just thought now that if it was the clutch having too muchj play, it would affect all the gears wouldn't it?? and not just downshifting but going up aswell

the nulon is in a tube, just squeeze it in quickly and put the plug back in a hurry.

The cable is simple to check. Too much freeplay mean that the clutch will not disengage. What gears this affect depends on what speed the engine is spinning vs the transmission at the time. This means your crunch will be at different times. More likely on downshifting though.

I do not think parts for a diahatsu gearbox are a problem if you go with genuine. I had my daihatsu F60 5spd gearbox rebuilt with new seals, gaskets, syncros, bearings, etc... for around $2700. All parts genuine!
I haven't got it back yet and I do not think I will get it back on the road in under two weeks with all the other work I doing to it at the moment. But it is not a bad price for a complete rebuild. They had a few problems with it because the one of the shafts are a different size than the Rocky's gearbox. They had to reorder the locknuts for the shaft.
All you have to find a good mechnicanic to the do the job and even with genuine, with good maintenance, will give you long trouble free service at a reasonable price.

Sweeney wrote: I had my daihatsu F60 5spd gearbox rebuilt with new seals, gaskets, syncros, bearings, etc... for around $2700. All parts genuine! .

Wow!

Major coinage.

I got a price of $4300 for a full Feroza gearbox / transfer case shipped from Japan about two months ago..........

Sweeney wrote:I do not think parts for a diahatsu gearbox are a problem if you go with genuine. I had my daihatsu F60 5spd gearbox rebuilt with new seals, gaskets, syncros, bearings, etc... for around $2700. All parts genuine!
I haven't got it back yet and I do not think I will get it back on the road in under two weeks with all the other work I doing to it at the moment. But it is not a bad price for a complete rebuild. They had a few problems with it because the one of the shafts are a different size than the Rocky's gearbox. They had to reorder the locknuts for the shaft.
All you have to find a good mechnicanic to the do the job and even with genuine, with good maintenance, will give you long trouble free service at a reasonable price.

cause for 2700 I could just buy a 40 or sumthing else tuffer , then slowly sell off my car in bits and pieces and make another 2k

$2,700 is farily good price for a complete rebuild.
Landcrusier gearboxes can cost up to $3,000, and that using aftermarket rebuild kits!

- forgot to mention, there was water in the Gbox oil so I should stop bagging my car as it was my fault once again

But its at the Mech right now, gonna get pulled apart soon. Probly just a couple of synchro's and maybe 5th gear , then i'm banishing myself from offroading for a while, and saving up sum $$, and selling the rocky .... and buying sumthing just a little bit tougher, Patrol or Landcruiser. I'm getting to the point where I want to do stuff thats just too hard for the Rocky, and if I keep it, I will ruin it, and i luv it too much to do that (wish I had the time/money for 2 cars )

On that note, redbook says the nat av price for my rocky is 2000-4100, reckon I could get $3500 without to much trouble? Its got 2" lift , Headgasket done a month ago, water pump about 4months ago, engin blows hardly any smoke.

Expect to see it in the 4sale section in 3-4 months

Sif a cruiser or pootrol is tuffer than a Rock!

i out did a swb patrol with 2-3 inch lift and 33 mt's in my f-70 with 2 inch lift and 31 mongrels on the weekend!!!!swb cruiser with soa and 35's out did us both!!!!!!!

just ure dextron 3 the friction aditives in it helps the synchros and will also alow for easier shift oly prob is that it needs changing more reg and absorbs water

Fixed for ~$550, replaced 2 synchros and 're-aligned' em cuz they were sitting too low or sumthing, not bad i thought as most places would charge 500 just to drop the box. Still ticked off as my new shocks keep getting pushed further down the priorities list

But its all good, the longer I have the rocky trouble free the less i want to sell it

That's great news. Not as much $$$ as it could have been and you are mobile again.

How is the water going to stay out from now on?

nice one F70.. glad to hear.. 550 is a good price

What shocks are you thinking of getting?

chev28 wrote:
How is the water going to stay out from now on?

Silicone - and I will be steering clear of unnessesary water from now on

HotFourOk wrote:
What shocks are you thinking of getting?

Cheap ones , I went to repco, cant get em, stoopid cheap, have ones for $30 - seem way to cheap, must be crappy... i dont want to spend more than about 100ea, but am unsure where to even ask as I want to save $15 a shock or so and stick em in myslelf, so dont want to ask pedders or similar.

I got some Rancho's and they are the best thing I have ever bought man.. it made the car completely different to drive... It actually HANDLES OK NOW!

It took away the body roll round corners and offroad they are amazing!

I got the fronts for $230 a pair.

You only get what you pay for in that type of thing.. I'd go to a 4x4 place and ask for an opinion.. even see if they have a cheaper alternative... but not as cheap as SuperCrap...
Repco also can get in Ironman suspension products for the rocky.. the shocks are meant to be quite good.

cant remember the name of the shocks i used but got em from redcliffe springs and suspension. made my rocky ride a lot better on road and offroad was a huge diff. pretty sure i paid round the 80-90 each bud

I've got Old Man Emu and I would say they are too hard for comfortable road driving. No body roll problems at all (narrow track Rocky) but makes your teeth fall out. I have heard OME are like this.

OLD MAN EMU?? u mean makes the ride feel rough? i was thinking of getting OME for my Roza.