Outer Limits 4x4 Board

g'day to all I have just bought a GQ ute 4.2 diesel ST. It needs lifting can anyone tell me the pitfalls to look out for in doing a 4'' suspension lift & a 2'' body lift. I was told a 4'' suspension lift can create tailshaft problems with the standard ones. Or should I only do a 2''suspension lift. Usual story my money tree isn't doing to good

2' Body and best quality 2" Springs and shocks you can afford. Easy to do and best compromise for high and low speed driving.

Ditto. IF you are going to load the assend up with anything you are better of going 2" XHD springs and coil air bags. Put a 2" cab lift in and you will be laughing. High enough to fit 35's while still staying under the police radar....

ive done a body lift and a sierra previously and came to realise that there was some stuff i didnt know about, ie non-removeable bolts!

In doing a patrol, are there any common things to look out for or mods that have to be made? about to do one...

Another Question,
Is a body lift more prone to cracking or
reducing the lif of the shell/body???

I would go for a 3 inch lift, you can get away with not doing all the extras you really need to do with a 4 inch lift. I would only go 2 inch with a shorty.

Shane

meiamaro wrote:Another Question,
Is a body lift more prone to cracking or reducing the lif of the shell/body???

yup...

wenty wrote:g'day to all I have just bought a GQ ute 4.2 diesel ST. It needs lifting can anyone tell me the pitfalls to look out for in doing a 4'' suspension lift & a 2'' body lift. I was told a 4'' suspension lift can create tailshaft problems with the standard ones. Or should I only do a 2''suspension lift. Usual story my money tree isn't doing to good

i would do 2 or 3 inch suspension lift. bodylift is optional
[ not expensive } these options will give you no problems.

4 inch is more expensive { panhard rods & castor plates or drop boxes }

cheers john

2" suspension lift
flexes good enuf at the moment for what i do

Tayls- body lift on a GQ is too easy.
-When doing rearmost blocks note that they are captive bolts- so get out the oxy and heat up the end of bolt and nut from inside rear of cabin before trying to crack the bolt!
-Check you haven't nicked the fuel filler hose off the tank when you're done
-Might have to 'stretch' out the coils of brake line where they come up to bottom of master cylinder
-Will have to modify transfer case shifter to be able to engage 4WL properly- easiest way is to have mate inside cabin pushing lever forward hard while you get underneath and heat shaft with oxy midway b/n transfer case and cabin floor- get mate to hold while it cools down- might have to do twice- then check to make sure 4L can be engaged (and lever pulls up properly)- just have something on hand to put out burning rubber seals if needed
Buy a kit and get all the right bolts with it- I prefer aluminium to nylon blocks.

i currantly have 2" sus and 2" body and i am happy though i am upgrading, with the setup i have i get 35" BFG AT's under without any rubbing and i have flexed it to buggary when doing Killingsworth, Wattagans and i am about to do a rope road run this month to really put the power on

junr,
sweet as... so the gear box shifter doesnt get effect.

thanks mate

With my kit i can supply rear bolts to suit the captive nuts but normally supply longer rear bolts where you drill out the center of captive to slide new ones through.

2-3" suspension and 2" body is a best alrounder i think.

Tayls wrote:junr,
sweet as... so the gear box shifter doesnt get effect.

Depends on the lift. Yes it will get affected with some lifts.

http://www.gqpatrol.com/bodylift/index.htm

Agree with gasdrx re 2-3" suspension + 2" body- but go for the longer bolts he mentions- best to stick as close to Nissan's original design (ie: with captive bolts). 2" lift should not affect standard gearbox lever!

haha who told you you have problems iwth tailshaft with a 4" lol

i got a 6" lift and have no issues at all

wel besides hitting it on rocks wen going ove the edge of huge drops