hey all
i want to turn my AC compressor into a aircompressor as i dont use it and yes i have searched and found info on on things like it but not what i need i know it has been done. i want to run air tools of it and have been told you can get 300psi out of it if thats true i dont know.
cheers all
dan
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AC into air compressor
Moderator: Micka
I think this one has been covered a number of times, I am surprised it is not in the Tech section.
But yes you can run the A/C for air. You will need to install a tank. I have my tank in the back of the Rangie. I bought a very cheap 240v compressor with a 21litre tank (like the ones you get from Supercheap or bunnings) then pulled off the motor. This way it came with the pressure switch etc already mounted on the tank. I just plumbed in the Sandon compressor (make sure you spend the money and use proper A/C hose with crimped end at the compressor otherwise the heat and pressure will keep blowing off the standard hose) and wired the pressure switch in 12v.
The tank I bought can operate to about 140psi but I have it set at 110psi because I run my front air locker with it. The compressor has enough output to pump up the 35's from 15psi to 35psi in 60sec and will easily run all air tools
But yes you can run the A/C for air. You will need to install a tank. I have my tank in the back of the Rangie. I bought a very cheap 240v compressor with a 21litre tank (like the ones you get from Supercheap or bunnings) then pulled off the motor. This way it came with the pressure switch etc already mounted on the tank. I just plumbed in the Sandon compressor (make sure you spend the money and use proper A/C hose with crimped end at the compressor otherwise the heat and pressure will keep blowing off the standard hose) and wired the pressure switch in 12v.
The tank I bought can operate to about 140psi but I have it set at 110psi because I run my front air locker with it. The compressor has enough output to pump up the 35's from 15psi to 35psi in 60sec and will easily run all air tools
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
Well, put it this way. My setup is currently tankless, as its still kind of a work in progress, and it has no pressure switch. At idle, it flows 15 psi through my tyre gauge (when not actually pumping anything up), and pumps up my JT2s from 15 to 35 psi in under a minute. At 2000rpm, it flows 60psi through the tyre gauge, inflates a 36x12.5 centipede from 15 to 38 psi in around 20secs, fills a 10m airline to 160psi within 1 second, and makes a spectacular explosion when the cheap crimp fittings on bunnings air lines (300psi my ass!) blow apart shortly afterwards.
It will happily spin a rattlegun with the engine at 2000rpm, not sure on the power but it would be reasonable. The pressures encountered in an aircon system can reach 250psi, so I would imagine the compressor to be easily capable of 300+ psi.
If you can get hold of an airtank from a classic range rover or HSE with air suspension, their test pressure is 14.7 bar - or 200 psi. They regularly handle a bit over 10 bar, which is about 150psi. The obvious advantage of these is they neatly fit up under your sills (unless you have sill tanks!) The classic tank is longer but narrower, the HSE tank is shorter and fatter. I've got to check out whether one has a bigger capacity, but if they're the same, I'm going the classic tank, because it can be tucked further up out of harms way.
If you are using your existing aircon compressor, rather than mounting another, take your intake (suction) hose, find the end of it, then work out where you want the intake to sit (ie: inside, can probably be filterless, engine bay, should really have a filter). Then work out how you want to attach the filter (if using it), and either cut the hose to the desired length, or screw a fitting to the end, or whatever. Fittings aren't crucial on the suction side, as its low pressure. BEWARE OF AIRCON GAS REMAINING IN THE SYSTEM. Its something like a $25,000 fine for an individual releasing aircon gas into the atmosphere.
Then take your discharge (output) hose, and work out if you have enough length to reach your tank. IF you do, take the hose to an aircon place, and get them to crimp on a fitting that will screw into your tank (may need to take the tank also). If you don't, take the hose there, get them to make one up in the required length, with the desired fittings.
The tank used kind of determines how you plumb it, whether there is a T-piece at the mouth of the tank which is your takeoff point for the airline fitting (to run tools etc) or whether there is an in and an out fitting. Obviously you need to put a pressure switch in somewhere if its not already in your tank.
The wiring. If your compressor has two wires coming out of it, one must go to earth (doesn't matter which one), and the other to your pressure switch, (and switch on the dash if desired), then via a fuse (10 amp seems to be plenty on mine) to a power source (ign power). If it has only one wire, then its already earthed through the compressor body, and the wire coming out is run as before to the power. Ensure to insulate the wiring you just chopped which comes from the A/C switch on the dash is well insulated, and cannot short.
Ensure your pressure switch operates as: on (continuity) at atmospheric pressure, and off (circuit broken) at the desired cut off pressure. Some pressure switches (ie rangie air suspension ones) do not operate this way, and require some buggerising around with relays to set up. ARB pressure switchs work the right way, I believe.
Connections: everything before your output fitting must be good enough for your desired pressure. The higher the pressure, the more paranoid you should be. Air con fittings will handle 250 psi if crimped correctly. Anything else you do must be very secure. Believe me, there is a lot of power stored in compressed air.
It will happily spin a rattlegun with the engine at 2000rpm, not sure on the power but it would be reasonable. The pressures encountered in an aircon system can reach 250psi, so I would imagine the compressor to be easily capable of 300+ psi.
If you can get hold of an airtank from a classic range rover or HSE with air suspension, their test pressure is 14.7 bar - or 200 psi. They regularly handle a bit over 10 bar, which is about 150psi. The obvious advantage of these is they neatly fit up under your sills (unless you have sill tanks!) The classic tank is longer but narrower, the HSE tank is shorter and fatter. I've got to check out whether one has a bigger capacity, but if they're the same, I'm going the classic tank, because it can be tucked further up out of harms way.
If you are using your existing aircon compressor, rather than mounting another, take your intake (suction) hose, find the end of it, then work out where you want the intake to sit (ie: inside, can probably be filterless, engine bay, should really have a filter). Then work out how you want to attach the filter (if using it), and either cut the hose to the desired length, or screw a fitting to the end, or whatever. Fittings aren't crucial on the suction side, as its low pressure. BEWARE OF AIRCON GAS REMAINING IN THE SYSTEM. Its something like a $25,000 fine for an individual releasing aircon gas into the atmosphere.
Then take your discharge (output) hose, and work out if you have enough length to reach your tank. IF you do, take the hose to an aircon place, and get them to crimp on a fitting that will screw into your tank (may need to take the tank also). If you don't, take the hose there, get them to make one up in the required length, with the desired fittings.
The tank used kind of determines how you plumb it, whether there is a T-piece at the mouth of the tank which is your takeoff point for the airline fitting (to run tools etc) or whether there is an in and an out fitting. Obviously you need to put a pressure switch in somewhere if its not already in your tank.
The wiring. If your compressor has two wires coming out of it, one must go to earth (doesn't matter which one), and the other to your pressure switch, (and switch on the dash if desired), then via a fuse (10 amp seems to be plenty on mine) to a power source (ign power). If it has only one wire, then its already earthed through the compressor body, and the wire coming out is run as before to the power. Ensure to insulate the wiring you just chopped which comes from the A/C switch on the dash is well insulated, and cannot short.
Ensure your pressure switch operates as: on (continuity) at atmospheric pressure, and off (circuit broken) at the desired cut off pressure. Some pressure switches (ie rangie air suspension ones) do not operate this way, and require some buggerising around with relays to set up. ARB pressure switchs work the right way, I believe.
Connections: everything before your output fitting must be good enough for your desired pressure. The higher the pressure, the more paranoid you should be. Air con fittings will handle 250 psi if crimped correctly. Anything else you do must be very secure. Believe me, there is a lot of power stored in compressed air.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
if you want to run a york style comp let me know,
i have 2 mounts one for the drivers side and one for the pass side
both 3 bolt.(dont know about 4.6?)
im running a 9cfm york on my disco, havent setup the tank ect yet.
just hard wired to a switch, works great.
you wont want to bother with any electric ones ever again.
i have 2 mounts one for the drivers side and one for the pass side
both 3 bolt.(dont know about 4.6?)
im running a 9cfm york on my disco, havent setup the tank ect yet.
just hard wired to a switch, works great.
you wont want to bother with any electric ones ever again.
Challenge excepted!
Sounds like you've got it setup exactly like me at the moment, except i kept my york for A/C and installed a sanden compressor. Its amazing how powerful it is, huh.im running a 9cfm york on my disco, havent setup the tank ect yet.
just hard wired to a switch, works great.
One other thing I forgot to mention, you need some way to lube the compressor to really make it last (yes, I know a lot of guys have never lubed theirs, without hassle). Endless Air use a grease nipple on the body of the compressor, Andrew Richmond plumbs a rocker cover breather into it.... I just tipped 15 ml of air tool oil into the intake when i first fired it up - which created a nice cloud of mist when the line blew off!
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
yep work a treat, a mate had set his stauns too low, 10psi i think??
so out came the air line and inflator, seconds later 35psi.
takes care of the crank end. i just run an in line oiler for the inlet to the
comp.
so out came the air line and inflator, seconds later 35psi.
easy with the york, take the head off and block the feed pipe. thatOne other thing I forgot to mention, you need some way to lube the compressor to really make it last (yes, I know a lot of guys have never lubed theirs, without hassle).
takes care of the crank end. i just run an in line oiler for the inlet to the
comp.
Challenge excepted!
A bit more info to add to this thread, re the airtanks in classic/p38 rangies.
I was incorrect before, the MAX WORKING PRESSURE is 14 bar, the test pressure is actually 28 bar!!!! Which means that up to 200psi is reasonable with these tanks. The classic tank has a capacity of 9.4 litre, and as previously mentioned is longer and smaller in diameter. The P38 tank is 9.7 litres.
P38 tank has been secured (mainly cause they both were the same price for me, and the P38 one was loose), and will advise with anything else useful I discover along the way.
I was incorrect before, the MAX WORKING PRESSURE is 14 bar, the test pressure is actually 28 bar!!!! Which means that up to 200psi is reasonable with these tanks. The classic tank has a capacity of 9.4 litre, and as previously mentioned is longer and smaller in diameter. The P38 tank is 9.7 litres.
P38 tank has been secured (mainly cause they both were the same price for me, and the P38 one was loose), and will advise with anything else useful I discover along the way.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
No, I haven't had the york rebuilt... I'm using a sanden for endless air, and the york is left in place as a 'maybe next summer i'll fix that, after i do thermo fans to control the temperature.....' It operates, just that there isn't quite enough gas for it to be cold.
I'll probably just top the gas up every year, if it proves to be that leaky.... Or swap to a sanden, but that involves changing both compressor mounts....
I'll probably just top the gas up every year, if it proves to be that leaky.... Or swap to a sanden, but that involves changing both compressor mounts....
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Is it a Tdi or TD5? If its a Tdi, you should fairly easily be able to mount a second compressor above the original (although a bodylift may help clearance between bonnet and compressor), a Td5 might be a little trickier..
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
ragin
a mate of mine said that the ac compressors need oil for them to run and said it would not work but i think not. if it can blow air con gas and air then it should just do air only. anyway he just gave me a scare. on mine its got the two valves stickin up one red one blue is that where you connect the hose just tring toclear stuff up im a bit sloww
dan
a mate of mine said that the ac compressors need oil for them to run and said it would not work but i think not. if it can blow air con gas and air then it should just do air only. anyway he just gave me a scare. on mine its got the two valves stickin up one red one blue is that where you connect the hose just tring toclear stuff up im a bit sloww
dan
Dan,
the reason some people say it will not work is because in theory the compressor should be lubricated. When it runs as an airconditioner there is oil in the refigeration gas which lubricates it.
Running it on just air will not give it any lubrication but many people have run them like this for years without a problem. You can give it a sqirt of oil down the air inlet every couple of month or mount an in-line oiler which is only about $10.
The red and blue valves are the inlet and outlet, yes connect to them.
the reason some people say it will not work is because in theory the compressor should be lubricated. When it runs as an airconditioner there is oil in the refigeration gas which lubricates it.
Running it on just air will not give it any lubrication but many people have run them like this for years without a problem. You can give it a sqirt of oil down the air inlet every couple of month or mount an in-line oiler which is only about $10.
The red and blue valves are the inlet and outlet, yes connect to them.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
Be very careful running it straight off the compressor - don't hold your engine revs up, and make sure that you only release the trigger on your tyre gauge just long enough to see what they're at - I rather spectacularly blew a fitting off that was supposed to be rated to 300psi, and the air line apparently ballooned like crazy. If you are aware of it and sensible, there won't be a problem - although i'd only use it for tyres like that.
Re setup, it would probably be difficult to find fittings to go on where the red and blue caps are, due to the specific aircon connectors used in this application. I'm not sure what the other guys here have used, but i'm sure they're happy to share. The way i would do it is outlined below, and is how i did it, although i used a second compressor taken from a complete air con system overhaul, and as such got the hoses with it.
The two fittings on your compressor should have S and D marked next to them - suction and discharge. Assuming you are keeping your factory compressor, you will need to cut through the hoses - cut your Suction hose in such a way you can run the end of it to somewhere clean (up inside the side of the scuttle panel is not a bad place). You could run it without cutting, but it will be sucking through the TX valve and the rest of the system, which poses a restriction. Then cut your discharge hose so that you can run it to a convenient point, and push a barb type fitting into it, and hose clamp it on. Cut the rubber part, its easier, and you can hose clamp fittings (trust me, hose clamps with barb fittings will easily handle 150psi, mine does). A hacksaw works well for cutting the lines.
You may need to bypass the aircon pressure switch (if you have one), if you intend to run it off standard aircon controls. Make a small jump wire to go between the terminals of the plug that goes onto the pressure switch, and voila.
Tip a little (10mls or so) air tool oil or similar into your intake when you first fire it up, and watch the spray come out the other end
. Thats your lubing done for a couple months!
Re setup, it would probably be difficult to find fittings to go on where the red and blue caps are, due to the specific aircon connectors used in this application. I'm not sure what the other guys here have used, but i'm sure they're happy to share. The way i would do it is outlined below, and is how i did it, although i used a second compressor taken from a complete air con system overhaul, and as such got the hoses with it.
The two fittings on your compressor should have S and D marked next to them - suction and discharge. Assuming you are keeping your factory compressor, you will need to cut through the hoses - cut your Suction hose in such a way you can run the end of it to somewhere clean (up inside the side of the scuttle panel is not a bad place). You could run it without cutting, but it will be sucking through the TX valve and the rest of the system, which poses a restriction. Then cut your discharge hose so that you can run it to a convenient point, and push a barb type fitting into it, and hose clamp it on. Cut the rubber part, its easier, and you can hose clamp fittings (trust me, hose clamps with barb fittings will easily handle 150psi, mine does). A hacksaw works well for cutting the lines.
You may need to bypass the aircon pressure switch (if you have one), if you intend to run it off standard aircon controls. Make a small jump wire to go between the terminals of the plug that goes onto the pressure switch, and voila.
Tip a little (10mls or so) air tool oil or similar into your intake when you first fire it up, and watch the spray come out the other end
. Thats your lubing done for a couple months!84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Dan,
I had to get my fittings from a refigeration specialist. If you just look up Refrigeration parts in the yellow pages I'm sure there will be a place in Brisbane.
Also you want to make sure the output hose is proper refigeration hose wich is rated a lot higher than air hose and get the refrigeration place to crimp the fitting onto the hose for the compressor end. I started off using a hose clamp to hold the hose on but the combination of heat and pressure just kept blowing it off.
I had to get my fittings from a refigeration specialist. If you just look up Refrigeration parts in the yellow pages I'm sure there will be a place in Brisbane.
Also you want to make sure the output hose is proper refigeration hose wich is rated a lot higher than air hose and get the refrigeration place to crimp the fitting onto the hose for the compressor end. I started off using a hose clamp to hold the hose on but the combination of heat and pressure just kept blowing it off.
Thanks,
Adam
Adam
I used high temperature (rubber) air hose between the compressor outlet and the oil/water separator. I tried normal plastic/silicone air line first and had the same problems, but the high temp air line works fine.walker wrote: Also you want to make sure the output hose is proper refigeration hose wich is rated a lot higher than air hose and get the refrigeration place to crimp the fitting onto the hose for the compressor end. I started off using a hose clamp to hold the hose on but the combination of heat and pressure just kept blowing it off.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Guys.
I'm a Fridgy by trade and i must say you guys know more than most.
Compressors in most cars can pump up to 450PSI and head pressures do get that high when there is a fault. So make sure you run a cut off switch.
For parts
Actrol or Kirby are the best ones... Kirby has a new name now, cant remember it...
Enzed can do the hoses also.
Be carefull when playing with high pressure. Dust and grit becomes a real issue in your eyes..............
I'm a Fridgy by trade and i must say you guys know more than most.
Compressors in most cars can pump up to 450PSI and head pressures do get that high when there is a fault. So make sure you run a cut off switch.
For parts
Actrol or Kirby are the best ones... Kirby has a new name now, cant remember it...
Enzed can do the hoses also.
Be carefull when playing with high pressure. Dust and grit becomes a real issue in your eyes..............
1986 County, Auto, Locker, Maxi Crawler gears.
1987 RRC, Auto, Lockers, Himount. POS
1987 RRC, Auto, Lockers, Himount. POS
Dan,
The aircon compressor fitted to 84 rangies were york 210's. These are considered the best type for OBA.
York compressors have oil in the sump, which is an advantage, compared to the sanden type compressors. But you need to block the oil passage between the suction port and the crankshaft seal.
Link to site with details of the mod here http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/york_oilmod.html
I use M5 socket set screws to plug the passage on mine. The hole needs to be drilled out slightly to the tapping size.
The aircon compressor fitted to 84 rangies were york 210's. These are considered the best type for OBA.
York compressors have oil in the sump, which is an advantage, compared to the sanden type compressors. But you need to block the oil passage between the suction port and the crankshaft seal.
Link to site with details of the mod here http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/york_oilmod.html
I use M5 socket set screws to plug the passage on mine. The hole needs to be drilled out slightly to the tapping size.
John
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