Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have had a bit of a look on this site but couldn't find any thing about cutting the guards on suzukis .I want to fit some 31s and i was woundering if i cut the guards will they fit without any lift also what do you do with the fire wall , how much lift does this achive and what is involved ,any info or pics would be great

It really depends on if you want it looking like a big pair of scissors got to it or not. The best way ive heard to fit 31s is a 2inch spring lift and a 2inch body lift with minor trimming. Im planning to do this all in good time.
dave

i have 2 inch body 2inch spring and running simex et's 31" they measure bit over 32" and no rubbing but NT to WT may affect this....
pretty sure all you need to do is hammer down the internal seam in the guard with these mods and you should be right

I fit 31's with 2 inch spring, ext. shackles and lifted front guards, no scrubing.
Just mashed the seem line and head light bucket a little in the front wells.

I could probibly make the body lift at school on the lathe but i got two prices for spring lifts and that was nearly worth more than the truck . I just thought cutting the guards would be an easy way out and it would keep the COG down

jazuki wrote:I could probibly make the body lift at school on the lathe but i got two prices for spring lifts and that was nearly worth more than the truck . I just thought cutting the guards would be an easy way out and it would keep the COG down

Please explain this a bit better.
Peter.

Just bash the seems in and bash the firewal in a little to clear the tyres. My car was like this for 2 years until my recent buildup. If you want to cut the guards as well, check out my members section there is a few pics of my cut guards.

Mark.

droopypete wrote:

jazuki wrote:I could probibly make the body lift at school on the lathe but i got two prices for spring lifts and that was nearly worth more than the truck . I just thought cutting the guards would be an easy way out and it would keep the COG down

Please explain this a bit better.
Peter.

i have got prices for a spring lift from tough dog and another price from EFS

i wasn't going to cut the whole guard out just the small lip next to the outer edge of the body the ownly problem is the fire wall i am also interested in doin this because that part of my guard is nearly rusted out

for pics of small guard chops... see mud4b ...

or even better see rhetts in the members thread.

jamie u lozer hahaha >>>>> just do a body lif and a shackle lift...... na jokes just buy a nissan!!!!

mroffroader wrote:jamie u lozer hahaha >>>>> just do a body lif and a shackle lift...... na jokes just buy a nissan!!!!

Who is this guy he comes on a Suzuki thread and says "just buy a nissan" I think mroffroader should change his name to "mrcorksmoker

droopypete wrote:

mroffroader wrote:jamie u lozer hahaha >>>>> just do a body lif and a shackle lift...... na jokes just buy a nissan!!!!

Who is this guy he comes on a Suzuki thread and says "just buy a nissan" I think mroffroader should change his name to "mrcorksmoker

ha ha

jazuki ==I have had a bit of a look on this site but couldn't find any thing about cutting the guards on suzukis

work in progress. but hes some pics
its alot of work
id recommend using new inner wheel tubes much faster & would turn out better
im just trying to save a mate some mulla

cheers
daryl

3rd pics a 35'' bfg

daryl ur work is way to clean

thanks tim
9hours in that 1st guard
2-3 hours of witch would have been dubble checking my marks and thinking over before starting me grinder

n/s/rear guard need a far bit of rust repairs
ive rolled the front half just working out rust repairs on rear half now

cheers
daryl

inner progress shot

last ones
ill delete these n move it to members section on tha weekend
for steve

jazuki wrote:I want to fit some 31s and i was woundering if i cut the guards will they fit without any lift also what do you do with the fire wall , how much lift does this achive and what is involved ,any info or pics would be great

Hey Jazuki,

Here's the start of my guard modifying process... I'm doing this out of necessity due to the rust rather than for clearance (as Im fitting 31" tyres with 2" bodylift & 2" suspension lift, which should provide more than enough space)

I have a plan.... but not sure how to explain it. My concern at the moment is whether I cut into the wheel arches and straighten them out (similar to daryl's) or, cut & weld flat sections instead (following the curve of the wheel arches & modifying shape to the floor)... Either way, I need to find another way to attach the flares. Higher up and straight onto the body or weld tabs to the underside of the 'new size' guards.... (i think the latter)

Anyone had prior experience with this?

Edit: I'll do a build up thread soon and post pics of the progress

hello JO
with the amount of chopping u have had to do
id recommend using new inner tub

on stumped body i left the front lower 6-8" std
just rolled the lip over n welded to the wheel tube
i dont think u will get ur tube to stretchthe extra 2+" to cover your new wheel arch opening

but then again in saying that i moved them up 4"
so if your only raising the arch 2" u may get away with stretching you existing tubes.

cheers daryl

Cheers Daryl

I'll probably opt for cutting the section of wheel arch that 'rolls down' (the bit that you chopped & lifted) - By taking it out completely and replacing with new tin I shouldn't have the problem of it not reaching (I agree would be pushing the 2" coverage if done the other way) .... Is this what you meant by 'new inner tub', or do you mean replacing the whole wheel arch with something else thats bigger?

wowzers jo there was a fair bit of rust there aye, might swing by on the weekend and checkout the progress.
so what are u doing with your old springs?

crispy wrote:so what are u doing with your old springs?

Ditchin' em!! LOL....... nah, they are still straight, so will probably sell them. They still have good lift & will be ok with the load leafs out. I'm getting all new OME when I get over to Melb's in the next couple of months, depending on how quick mark finds a mig welder to do this job for me (I bought him a Crusty Demons ticket so he HAS to help me now < LOL!)

JO = I'll probably opt for cutting the section of wheel arch that 'rolls down' (the bit that you chopped & lifted) - By taking it out completely and replacing with new tin I shouldn't have the problem of it not reaching (I agree would be pushing the 2" coverage if done the other way)..........

yep id be going with your 1st option. sounds good

with the tub. its a complete new inner wheel arch
like this

Where do you get the inner guards from..... or did you fab them up

summit racing is the guard IN Pick
& also trailer shops or even try your local sheat metal shop

ill get maitland sheat metal to do my guards n floor pan
when i get back to working on it

daryl

Suzuki Surf Chik wrote:

crispy wrote:so what are u doing with your old springs?

Ditchin' em!! LOL....... nah, they are still straight, so will probably sell them. They still have good lift & will be ok with the load leafs out. I'm getting all new OME when I get over to Melb's in the next couple of months, depending on how quick mark finds a mig welder to do this job for me (I bought him a Crusty Demons ticket so he HAS to help me now < LOL!)

I might want them hehe those other spring were...hmm yeah so dont sell them b4 i make up my mind if i want to buy them lol

daryl wrote:with the tub. its a complete new inner wheel arch
like this

Hmmm... now that pics got me thinking If my first option is too much of a PITA I might have to get something fab'd like those wheel arches. The back of my zook is going to have a frame in it with a shelf on top with spare tyre underneath anyway, so you won't have to see them. Plus my floor is also rusted in parts so maybe new floor pan

Brad, I'll hold on to old springs for you until u decide what u want to do

Here's a couple pics of my rear tubs. They are quite thin alluminium (can't remember thickness off hand) but tough enough that you can stand on them and they feel alot stronger then the original ones. They were easy to make but did take some time to install.

Mark.

markil wrote:Here's a couple pics of my rear tubs. They are quite thin alluminium (can't remember thickness off hand) but tough enough that you can stand on them and they feel alot stronger then the original ones. They were easy to make but did take some time to install.
Mark.

how did you join the al to the steel body?
I'm also thinkin that the Al would be prone to denting from rocks?
I like the idea of saving a bit of weight by having less steel