Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Recently had a seal go on the front passenger wheel, which was well soaked up by the brake pads and everything else around it
So I got some new bits, a new disc rotor, bearing kit, and new pads.
Thought I would replace the bearing as it was getting a little rough, and the rotor has been machined a couple of times before.

All went back together nicely, except for the caliper being a bit of a PITA, think it maybe slightly warped or something from to many bogholes etc
In the end, we just had to a drill the 2 holes slightly bigger where the 2 bolts attach itself to the wheel, also take a little bit off the 2 pins which lock the pads in place.

Now under hardish braking, the car wants to dive to the lefthand side.
Is this because of the new rotors and brakes?? I havent done the other side yet, will be doing it next weekend.

The disc seemed free from grease etc when I put the tyre back on, so im thinking its only because of the new bits I have put on one side and not the other yet.
Any clues guys!
Thanks.

Of course. It's best to do both sides at the same time.

chimpboy wrote:Of course. It's best to do both sides at the same time.

1 side!

I'd do the other right away

That thud is the sound of pedestrians getting hit as you
mount the footpath

Thats what I thought.
I didnt get time to finish the otherside last night and im working today.
Might have to throw a sickie tomorrow and put the otherside in I finks!

The new brakes will be either much better cause theyre not worn out, or worse because the rotors havent bedded in.

I have heard of many taxi's with brand new rotors failing brake tests because the rotors havent bedded in. Fix = driving round block with foot on brake to bed them in.

and as others mentioned, brakes should always be done together.

You did put new pads on with the new rotor didn't you? If you didn't, you can find that it's a really quick way to stuff a new rotor, especially if the old pads have glazed from excessive heat!

Also, I wouldn't be driving around the block with a foot on the brake. Follow the procedure listed with the brake pads for bedding them in, which usually involves accelerating to 60, medium pressure brake down to about twenty, drive a little further and repeat, each time increasing braking pressure slightly. Allows the heat to dissipate between brake applications, to prevent glazed pads and warped rotors.

Many people have their own technique for bedding pads, but the aim is not to overheat the pads whilst bedding them in. If the pads are overheated, before they have bedded in, they will glaze up from the heat, and tear the rotors apart in no time!

Cheers, Dean

Usually if you just drive the vehicle normally for a 50 km ? distance the brakes equalise. The important things are free pistons and sliders in your calipers
J Top

I was taught similar back in the old days when replacing pads and/or rotors. A few light presses followed by medium then after a few medium give em a hard one etc. Its not rocket science but if you glaze/warp new rotors the boss would shaft ya

Luxy wrote:Thats what I thought.
I didnt get time to finish the otherside last night and im working today.
Might have to throw a sickie tomorrow and put the otherside in I finks!

Yes sickie's are way better than deadies ...