Outer Limits 4x4 Board

What has to be done to the rest of the truck, when a bodylift is done. I wanted a 2 inch bodylift, but am not sure on what else I'll have to do to make it all work properly?

Any info appreciated

Cheers

Craig

mate i got a 2'' bodylift my hilux and no mods have to be made. all the hose , lines etc were long enough for the 2''. the only thing was the bumpers , bullbars etc have to be raised 2''

What about the radiator, gearsticks and steering shaft?? Nothing at all had to be done?

Cheers

Craig

diesel028 wrote:What about the radiator, gearsticks and steering shaft?? Nothing at all had to be done?

Cheers

Craig

just loosen the slip joints on the steering ahft 2 allow it 2 pull apart a littlebit and u will have no dramas.

the gearsticks should b fine on a 2" any bigger and u will have trouble.

the radiator should also b ok u may need 2 take off the bottom part of the cowling or u can lower it 2" f u want but being a diesel u will b right..

don't bother with a 2" lift I started with 2 1/2 " and went to a 3" after 2 years because any tyres over 32" scrub on a 2" lift.

depends on what you wanna do with springs etc old yella

Old Yella wrote:don't bother with a 2" lift I started with 2 1/2 " and went to a 3" after 2 years because any tyres over 32" scrub on a 2" lift.

i disagree, i have a 2 inch body and about 1.5 in the springs and i run 35's with out a drama.

The only advantage i can see, on my truck, in having a three inch body lift is the fact that i could then run the winch from behind the front cross member.

When i fitted my 2 inch body lift i had to trim the tunnel for the gear stick to shift to 5th and reverse and also lower the rad as they are different in the 4 runner to the hilux.

NICK

I just did a 2.5" body-lift on my lux 2 days ago.
I have an RN105 with a 22R, I had to chop about 10mm off the ends of
the fan cause the bottom pipe is directly under the fan in my truck.
Everything else fitted OK I just had to slightly bend a few brackets etc.
The rubber gear-boot on my lux fits, but it makes 2nd and 4th a little
harder to get into, so I removed the boot and it works fine now.
AND free heat from the exhaust too

I bought a steering spacer off Chaos4x4 too cause I didn't like the lack
of spline-age in the unis. But my mate did a 2.5" on his 4Runner and
like hypo said, he just slacked off the spline bolts and let it slip out
a bit. His never fell out.

Be careful if your steering unis are a bit old/rusty. I killed one by
accident trying to force it off the shaft with a bit of mallet-work.

Cheers,
Bart

when i did my body lift i had to remove the inner gearstick boot to get 2nd, 4th and reverse, and also trimmed a bit off the bottom of the radiator shroud, because the fan just touched it as the body flexes.

Thanks for your answers guys.

I think I'll try a 2" bodylift to start with as I already have 2" suspension lift and am running 33's. Will also be getting 2" extended shackles a bit later on. Then eventually will run 35's.

My next question is, what type of block is better? An aluminium/steel or the nylon type ones?

Cheers

Craig

well i have nylon blocks in mine as i have heard that the alloy and steel ones can make the body crack around the mounts

I'd go nylon if I had the choice but in Qld we must use metal ie alum or steel.

I run 35" with no body lift and reasonably flat springs with lowered mounts. I think that I'd almost have enough clearance in the front for 37" but for the reat, the tray would need reworking.

Just go to chaos4x4, they made mine up no worries
and for a great price too!
They supplied me with all the bolts and the blocks and I also
got one of their steering spacers too. Makes the whole job
much easier.

Bart

diesel028, M&G Industrial in Fyshwick sell UHDPE engineering rod, they can cut it to length and drill it for you as well. Probably about $150 for enough blocks to do the body and the tub. There is a size about 70mm dia, that is the one you want..
Then go around the corner to Specialty Fasteners and get some grade 8 zinc plated bolts (with nylocks) 50mm longer than your existing ones. Get washers as well, as the toyota ones are held captive on the bolts. I can give you a hand to put it all in if you want, I live around the corner from Damien.

Wendle, is that engineering rod stuff nylon or metal?

Craig

Ultra High Density Poly Ethelyene

(Nylon if you must)

Thanks Tonka

Cheers

Craig

I used the same stuff and bought a 1meter rod of it for $35 and cut it and drilled it myself. Was the cheapest way.

Hard to drill/cut??

Craig

I just used a drop saw to cut them, then put them on a lathe to tidy them up, but this really is not needed.

I used a drill press to get straight holes, but a power drill and vice would work too.

What sort of blade was in the saw - timber or triple cut? how did you keep the material cool and stop it from galling? Nylon and HDPE are best cut slowly, usually machine hacksaw, but hey, whatever works. and your drills should be nice and sharp.

No idea what blade, whatever was in it at the time

The lathe fixed up the mess, but it really wasn't that bad.

I had a mate that made a set of 5" (you read right) body lift blocks
out of some black poly tube the same as Tonka. And then he went to the local bolt wholesaler and bought some high tensiles to suit.

It doesn't cost much at all.

Bart

5" body lift
man he must have been smoking some good crack
why would ya want 5" body lift ?