Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Seems that i have my first Inner CV boot that needs replacing, but i'm not really sure about pulling everything apart to do it and then it not going back together for some reason.

So here's what i'm proposing; if someone who has done this before is willing to help me do it, i would be willing to offer them a slab of their beverage of choice (Or something else if you don't drink, as if ) Does this sound fair?

I've allready bought the boots/clamps/grease, as i might do both the inner and outter at the same time, but i'm not sure if i need circlip pliers or a ball joint puller or whatever to do it.

If you are interested in helping out, this can be done in my garage or at your place, let me know via PM or call/SMS on 0409162552, preferably ASAP from next Monday on. I'm in Narre Warren South, oh and it's a NH Paj.

Any help much appreciated.

-Steele

dude, its not that hard ey

i almost a pro now at them, iv even got one to do as it is thats the fist one iv done since iv dropped it down 10mm, but hey yeh i still gotta one before i take it out again. some pointers...i swear iv written this before, but anyways

- take the wheel off,
- take the little bolt outta the back of the caliper shield
- take the caliper off
- ....im trying to think without seeing it... but next take circlip of the end of the driveshaft
- now for the balljoints, tie rod always comes easy, bottom usually comes easy, top hardest iv always found, whatever you do if your gonna bash the bottom one with a hammer or similiar, do it with the nut on the end as to not round off the end of the balljoint nut. OK! iv been there done it, over an hour with the thread file trying to save it, take the balljoint apart and attack with the thread file,
- pull the driveshaft, pull on it hard, push and pull if needed, itll come
- take it apart, theres a circlip in the cage of the cv, and then theres a couple holding the cv on and what not, but yeh, youll have to take it apart to get the new boot on.
- new boot on, and reverse the procedure, im suyre theres something missing but yeh few bundys are blurring my visualisation of the whole thing, and also not being able to have it in front of me,
- but for sure the hardest bit is to try and hold the wishbones, and the hub together and line it up with the top and bottom balljoints and get a nut on there to stop it falling, but it can be done by yourself, done it plenty, way easier with someone else helping. plenty of swearing here helps
- wheel back on and your done
- try buy extra greas eif you can, and get all the air out of the boot before you do it up, and yeh thats all my handy hints

dean

HAVE FUN!

edit:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ht=cv+boot

theres some info there misery, from before i was a pro at doin these but yeh as stated not hard, just messy, everythings straight forward, pull it apart put it back together

dean

hey misery,

i put another boot on today for the one that what broken. its not that hard and pretty much everything i said is about it, just remember a good set of circlip pliers, a big hammer, dont round off the ends of the threads if your gonna bash the balljoints out, (my method), tie up the caliper out of the way, right hand side easiest to undo the shock and get it outta the way, dont buy from repco, big dilemmas with them today and big fights with them and a big letter to the head office, buy from a local CV mob instead, youll find heaps cheaper, ie. half the price and much better boots. one today cost 15 bucks. and yeh time! take a while, epecially for your first, and yeh grab a few jacks if you got em, easier to jack things up (hub assembly with driveshafts) if your by yourself, anything else mate just ask

dean

Use a jimmy bar on the ball joint, much easyer.
Mitsubishi now sells locally made boots for around $15, got to ask for them.

Hey mis3ry.. like Klrevo said they're pretty easy mate. Did one of my inners today. Did have the luxury of a hoist and another bloke at work tho. Couple of things to remember... when undoing the top ball joint jack the lower control arm up to take the weight off it. Once the nut is undone then let the jack down slowly. If you don't do this the downward force from the torsion bar will give you one hell of a kick, especially if you have the T-bars cranked. Will have to use the same method in putting the top ball joint back in.
Apart from that its pretty straight forward. Just remember the whole stub axle needs to be removed to get the cv out and that there can sometimes be shims behind the circlip... make sure not to loose these!!

Good luck mate

By the way, if you want to drive up to the Gold Coast i'll give you a hand for a carton of TED's.... Almost worth the drive!!!

Allright, allright, i'll do it myself Just got to clean up the garage first, BTW Mitsubishi quoted me $190 per boot, so i got some from a local driveline place for $11 each with grease and clips!

Well i tried last night and for the life of me i couldn't get the balljoint on the tie rod apart. We had my brother in law with the tyre lever trying to pry it apart whilst i hit it with a hammer, but to no avail. So i'm going to buy a ball joint puller today and do it properly and thn i'll be an expert like everyone else

sucks man, tie rod end ball joints usually a piece of piss to get apart, the easiest i rekon anyways, ahh well yeh propb best to buy the puller, ill persist without one though. i rekon the shitest bit is trying to do the clips up and get them tight

dean

I bought a tool from repco to do the clips/bands. money well spent.
Tie rods on mine were easy. Bottom ball joint was the b***h.
Oh, couldnt get a puller to fit either.

Zute wrote:I bought a tool from repco to do the clips/bands. money well spent.
Tie rods on mine were easy. Bottom ball joint was the b***h.
Oh, couldnt get a puller to fit either.

Yeah thanks for telling me this now, just wasted 2 hours trying to get the bottom ball joint apart Tie rod came nice and easy with the puller, but as stated there isn't enough room to get the puller in to do the bottom. I tried hitting it a few times ut to no avail and i didn't want to damage the thread. Not quite sure how this was managed: http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/ ... rjoint.jpg

Actually, after reading the 4x4wire doc i think the problem may be the width of the forks on the puller not being wide enough. I think i'll give it a touch up with the angle grinder and see what happens.. This will still be covered be my Spupercheap warranty won't it? Bloody cars.

This can be dangerous.... When I used the jimmy bar on the bottom ball joint, I applied pressure using a small bottle jack on the bar and whacked joint with hammer. Good luck.

You can also unbolt the joint from the lower arm. But this can be a real pain, expressly getting it back on.

had to take the joint off the arm when i hit the thread with the hammer and rounded it without the nut on the end, and agreed with zute, tis a pain in the arse

dean