Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'day Guys.

I have a 98 model Gu Patrol with a 4.5 litre petrol/gas with an Auto.
I was dissappointed with low range gearing (especially with 33" tyres) so I just bought 85% reduction gears from Marks 4WD. (Garrett GT35 Turbo and big intercooler, and an Autronic is the next project coming soon.)

I have the transfer case pulled out and sitting on the bench and am having trouble splitting the case. I have split the case by about 10mm all around (gap size), but no more movement.

Do i need to use an impact gun to undo the rear tailshaft 32mm retaining Nut.? I thought it would split ok without undoing this presumably F**ing tight nut. I did a few searches and found little. I will post photos for the bible after this install is complete.

I should have got the PDF service manual on CD before i started but was too keen. If i dont hear a reply by tommorrow lunch, i will pull out the impact gun and the large socket anyway.

Regards
Grant McFarlane.

have fun with the nut, they're tightened to 450 nm. i ended up using a breaker bar with a 4 foot bit of pipe over the end, and made a plate to bolt on the flange to stop it from turning. probly would have been easier to undo it with the case still in the car, hand brake on and in gear. or if you've got a big impact gun you'll probly get it with that, my little super cheap didn't even think about it.

Just got it apart now. My old man came around and the 1/2" impact gun wouldn't even look at it. Between the 2 of us big blokes and my high lift Jack used as two breaker bars. (I used the tube handle over the wrench as one bar and the main Holed I beam of the high lift jack as the other retainer bar for the tailshaft hub which the old man had hold of.)

Youre dead right. Bloody Tight!. It really does require 3/4" inch socket tools. Hopefully get it finished today.

raptorthumper wrote:G'day Guys.

I have a 98 model Gu Patrol with a 4.5 litre petrol/gas with an Auto.
I was dissappointed with low range gearing (especially with 33" tyres) so I just bought 85% reduction gears from Marks 4WD. (Garrett GT35 Turbo and big intercooler, and an Autronic is the next project coming soon.)

I have the transfer case pulled out and sitting on the bench and am having trouble splitting the case. I have split the case by about 10mm all around (gap size), but no more movement.

Do i need to use an impact gun to undo the rear tailshaft 32mm retaining Nut.? I thought it would split ok without undoing this presumably F**ing tight nut. I did a few searches and found little. I will post photos for the bible after this install is complete.

I should have got the PDF service manual on CD before i started but was too keen. If i dont hear a reply by tommorrow lunch, i will pull out the impact gun and the large socket anyway.

Regards
Grant McFarlane.

Are you going to rebuild the engine before the Garrett goes on??

Thank Christ for this thread 'cos I'm about to start fitting my 43% gears soon. Any other traps or sticky bits I should know would come in handy.

Thanks Andrew

I now have the transfer case back together with the new gears installed sitting on the bench. There are quite a few tricks to capture the novice out, and the instructions from Marks 4WD are poor.

I will give everyone an update after i finish tomorrow. Unfortunately the digital camera had flat batteries today, so i didn't get any internal t/case photos but within a few days i will post photos of the transfercase removal process and highlight some of the traps. Mainly the little ball bearings and dowel pin for 4wd high/low lockout can get lost or misplaced easily.

Basically you will need a 3 jaw puller to remove 3 Bearings and the tailshaft hub from the tight fitting spline. Also as Grinch said it would be best to undo the 32mm rear tailshaft nut while the t/case is still in the vehicle and is in park with the handbrake on. I didn't remove the front 32mm tailshaft nut as i left that assembled.

No I am not going to rebuild my engine before the turbo goes on. The compression ratio is low already at 8.5:1 and the engine is still healthy. The only thing i might do is redo the valves and seats as i think the Lpg has worn the valve seats more than they otherwise would be with straight petrol.

raptorthumper wrote:No I am not going to rebuild my engine before the turbo goes on. The compression ratio is low already at 8.5:1 and the engine is still healthy. The only thing i might do is redo the valves and seats as i think the Lpg has worn the valve seats more than they otherwise would be with straight petrol.

Just a tip, 4.5 conrods are very light and really don't like turbos, GQ 4.2 rods go in and are much bigger...........

I just got back from a few hrs 4wding today and am rapt. I think every Auto Patrol should have the 85% Gearmasters installed.

I tested 1st low range today on the nastiest hill i know of in my area which is really steep and i can now descend easily without touching the brakes at all with the revs sitting on less than 2000rpm, nice and slow.
The gearing is perfect and the auto makes for smooth effortless bush cruising changing gears so quickly compared to a manual. It really is chalk and cheese the difference they make.

I can tell you now that i definately wouldn't be happy with the 43% reduction as it wouldn't be enough for brake free descents.

I am now also keen to get the 4.875:1 diff gears from Big Balls Offroad which is a further 25% reduction (compared to my 3.9 diff ratio's) so i can use overdrive again on the freeway. By adding the turbo and running 12-15 pounds of boost i am sure it would pull the current diff's but the lower gears would mean 2200rpm at 100Kph instead of about 1750rpm.

Yeah point taken on conrods. I have heard this, but still believe that boost and power doesn't bend conrods. Detonation and pinging does. I will be running mainly LPG (102-106 RON depending on butane/propane %'s) and not run too much advance and have the engine knock itself to death.
Maybe it is cheap insurance to throw in a set of GQ rods though.


Cheers
Grant

Here's a few photos of the removal process. I didn't take any internal
photo's sorry.


When you split the case there is a small dowel pin. It sits in the front alloy housing between the two selector fork shafts and can be easily lost, so look for it straight away before moving the cases around.






















**************EDITED*****************************************
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There is also another link on installing RockHoppers, and solves an Engine Management system problem for fuel injected 4500 GU Petrol Autos.

See Link

http://forum.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtop ... 86&start=0

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**************EDITED*****************************************
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There is also another link on speeds achievable with reduction gears.

See Link

http://forum.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtop ... 37&start=0

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i thing to becarful of is the rb30 gq boxes use the transfer case to hold the oil in, so best to drane the oil first, i found out the hard way.

i just did this with rockhoppers in a GQ transfer which is very similar...

very hard job for someone who hasnt done it before... the second time around ill get it done in a few hours start to finish.... lol

The following photo's came from Barry (ergjan19) during his install of Rock hoppers.

It let's you know what you are up for.

Great pics. Looks like it needs to be put in the Bible.

It already is in both GQ and GU Bibles.

Just went out to Tallarook yesterday and the 43% gears are almost exactly the ratio I was after. Holds heaps better down hill but also allows up to nearly 60 kmh in low range. I have about 1 and a half gears lower than standard with a fair overlap between high and low.
The install is a real tough job which could be made heaps easier by having a large dry undercover area at least twice the size of car, Truck ramps would be good also but it can be done with car ones under the back wheels. Another possibility would be cars ramps under front wheels and chassis stands under rear. I tipped my car nose-down in case auto fluid came out of box, it doesnt. dunno about manuals.
At least two blokes who are mechanically proficient and a gopher would be good.
The transfer as a whole, is encased in three sections. most of the work is done in the front two. The rear one is only opened up for access to 3 bolts that hold the front two sections together and to take out a plastic oil channel.
If you're careful oil seals can be re-used and bearings. one of the smaller ones in mine I was a bit sus about so I bought another ( 6208c3 ) --- $40 later, so be real careful when removing.
The rear tail shaft flange needs to come off and takes heaps of grunt get it undone - do it on the car as someone else has said. Front one can stay on. A Gregories manual is helpful and a Nissan one too ( they can got !!!! )
thanks to those who helped out when I needed it. ( Barry & others - this site is gold)

I also made a plywood platform that screws to the trolley jack head then wired the transfer to it. make sure the ply fits between the chassis rails under the car.

Thats for posting them raptorhumper. I was planning on posting them but havent had time.

After all my effort of getting the gears installed, i am now selling the GU for a 3 litre TD auto. I get the TD tomorrow, woohoo. If i could get the 4.2 in an auto i would but they are way out of my price range. Just spent today swapping transfer cases with someone else. Was so much quicker then the first time.

Anyway for my diesal i will get some reductions later. The diesal is a little slower then the petrol but not by much. I decided to get the diesal cause I went away for four days driving and it cost me $450 just in petrol. I felt like i was just wasting money feeding the pig.

Barry

Juzza wrote:

raptorthumper wrote:No I am not going to rebuild my engine before the turbo goes on. The compression ratio is low already at 8.5:1 and the engine is still healthy. The only thing i might do is redo the valves and seats as i think the Lpg has worn the valve seats more than they otherwise would be with straight petrol.

Just a tip, 4.5 conrods are very light and really don't like turbos, GQ 4.2 rods go in and are much bigger...........

Agree, a friend of mine has a turbo 4500 Patrol petrol. It pumps out 220 kw. Last year he blew the motor when he down shifted whilst towing a heavy trailer. Motor had a history of running hot, very hot until they cured it. All running well then bang. Conrod through the block.