Outer Limits 4x4 Board

RoeDao wrote:.... but i'm open to suggestions

Bush65 wrote:I was about to hand over the money for a rebuilt 6.5 chevy diesel (reason for 65 in my login name), when I changed and bought a 4BD1-T.

I had done a lot of research on the 6.2 and 6.5 before that.

Early 6.2's develop cracks in the webs at the main bearings. The castings were changed to fix this when the 6.5 was introduced (late 6.2 used this same casting). I used to know the casting number when they changed, but I have not retained that info.

6.2 and 6.5 suffer from cracks in the heads, but this is easy to repair by reaming the affected water passage and fitting a sleeve.

They have cooling problems in the rear of the cylinder heads, where pockets of steam occur, which affects heat transfer to the water. This is not related to overall water temperature as registered by the temp gauge. This was cured in late 6.5's by fitting dual thermostats and a high output water pump that can flush the pockests of steam out of the heads.

You can not easily retrofit the high output water pump to earlier engines as it rotates in the opposite direction and is driven by a serpentine belt.

You have to keep a good watch on the rubber in the harmonic balancer. When it deteriorates (starts to bulge) they are prone to breaking the crankshaft.

If the bolt that retains the harmonic balancer is not tightened correctly, they will flog out the keyway in the crankshaft.

You should also fit a good oil cooler for these engines.

Bush65 wrote:The block cracking in the main bearing webs is a problem with early 6.2L.

The block casting was modified, with thicker webs, when the 6.5L was introduced. Later 6.2L use the same casting (just a smaller bore).

Most head cracking can be repaired by fitting a sleeve in the water passage that the crack is in.

Later 6.5L have a high output water pump to cure this. The problem is hot spots in the head forming pockets of steam. The pockets of steam prevent water contact with the metal and thus poor heat conduction. The HO (high output) pump is able to flush the pockets of steam out of the heads.

Retro fitting the HO pump to earlier models in not practical. The HO pump is driven in the reverse rotation by a serpentine belt.

You have probably also heard of the problem with broken crankshafts. It is generaly believed that this is due to harmonic balancers with deteriorated rubber element. If there is any sign of the rubber bulging out, the balancer should be replaced. Also, if the bolt retaining the balancer is not torqued correctly the keyway in the crank flogs out.

Get an Isuzu engine from a truck instead. Either 4 or 6 cyl Isuzu (both are better than chevy diesel) and these trucks are everywhere here. BTW Isuzu designed the 6.6L duramax engine that replaced the 6.5L in chevy trucks.

bazuky wrote:hey i have a commadore vn ss 185kw motor and all bits needed plus a complete conversion kit to fit a gq 4.2efi you may need to get an efi fuel pump and a commadore ac pump if you want ac working $5000 ono
ring me 0414 423 013

forestf$%ker wrote:They are north/south, the inlet manifold just makes them look strange........

beatle_bayly wrote:I'm biased of course, but the Chev diesel is just SOOOOO SIMPLE. My ex-military 6.2 has a wire to open the injector pump solenoid, and wires to the relay I fitted to manually operate the glow plugs. Nothing much to go wrong there. I've had it running COMPLETELY SUBMERGED in the Victoria River (not that I recommend it.). I get 19mpg everywhere, towing, unladen....everywhere. I actually think it's a bit better than this as the speedo is reading about 10% slow.

It's pointless to compare engines by looking at a spec sheet. You need to drive something with a similar engine fitted.

I fitted my engine almost single-handedly and kept every receipt, even for paints, nuts/bolts/washers. $6700.00 5 years ago. Mind you, knowing what I know now, it could easily have blown out to a lot more.

ludacris wrote:I would consider where you are taking the vehicle for ease of spares and cost of spare parts.

LudaCris

Tiny wrote:V8 huh mate we do the dloows kit as it does everything for the coversion, when you are a little closer to deciding what engine I can price it all up for you for a reference

hillbilly wrote:$5000!! A general rule of thumb for engine
swaps is to work out a budget then double it.
$2000 for holden 304
$800ish adaptor kit
$600 clutch
$1300 zorst/extractors
$500 wiring interface
It adds up pretty quick. If you do alot yourself you will save yourself a few bob. But honestly I think the amount you stated to do the whole lot may not be achievable. Not saying it cant be done, but most conversions cost between 10@15 G

hillbilly wrote:$5000!! A general rule of thumb for engine
swaps is to work out a budget then double it.
$2000 for holden 304
$800ish adaptor kit
$600 clutch
$1300 zorst/extractors
$500 wiring interface
It adds up pretty quick. If you do alot yourself you will save yourself a few bob. But honestly I think the amount you stated to do the whole lot may not be achievable. Not saying it cant be done, but most conversions cost between 10@15 G

hillbilly wrote:I have a spare cat, standard cast headers, efi fuel pump, and a few
other goodies to help you out. Price = 1carton vb

DAMKIA wrote:

hillbilly wrote:$5000!! A general rule of thumb for engine
swaps is to work out a budget then double it.
$2000 for holden 304
$800ish adaptor kit
$600 clutch
$1300 zorst/extractors
$500 wiring interface
It adds up pretty quick. If you do alot yourself you will save yourself a few bob. But honestly I think the amount you stated to do the whole lot may not be achievable. Not saying it cant be done, but most conversions cost between 10@15 G

Too true, that..........

I started off by thinking about solutions to a IFS diff that kept shitting itself.

Well, if you go SAS then you have to match the rear end with the front.... need to rejig all the suspension then.....but they weigh considerably more and need more power to drive them....so we have to put in a more powerful engine to drive it....which needs a transmission to match....and a tcase (why not get some decent gearing for them while you're there)....might as well stick the diffs on some decent tyres.....


Be very glad when it's done, but what a money pit

RoeDao wrote:

DAMKIA wrote:

hillbilly wrote:$5000!! A general rule of thumb for engine
swaps is to work out a budget then double it.
$2000 for holden 304
$800ish adaptor kit
$600 clutch
$1300 zorst/extractors
$500 wiring interface
It adds up pretty quick. If you do alot yourself you will save yourself a few bob. But honestly I think the amount you stated to do the whole lot may not be achievable. Not saying it cant be done, but most conversions cost between 10@15 G

Too true, that..........

I started off by thinking about solutions to a IFS diff that kept shitting itself.

Well, if you go SAS then you have to match the rear end with the front.... need to rejig all the suspension then.....but they weigh considerably more and need more power to drive them....so we have to put in a more powerful engine to drive it....which needs a transmission to match....and a tcase (why not get some decent gearing for them while you're there)....might as well stick the diffs on some decent tyres.....


Be very glad when it's done, but what a money pit

it's only money after all and besides... at my age, i blame mid-life crisis, which i might add is a lot of fun!! I am the only 44 year old teenager you'll ever meet