Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Has any one got a kit? I want to buy (maybe) their disks only. but they wont sell them seperate unless you have previously bought the complete kit.

Ive done a rough cad drawing for brackets to fit commodore vt calipers, looking for disk options. I like their disk setup, but @ 2K an end for the kit - they're fookin dreaming.

http://www.yican.com.au/DBrakes/DBrakes.html

If you can get the dims for their disk's you may be able to approach DBA and see if there is anything close ?

Loanrangie wrote:If you can get the dims for their disk's you may be able to approach DBA and see if there is anything close ?

thanks tried dba

DBA = h0m0 g.a.y "we don't want to sell to you"

tried rda
these guys rock. "yep no problem. How can we bend over to help."

Looks like I'll be going a different way, RDA blank MQ disks. These will work with slightly modified rangie hubs. Dirt cheap too ~ $32 per disk.

I've bought one (mq disk) and have sent a hub off for machining, will dummy everything up before forking out for laser cutting. should be ok though.

Glad to hear there is a cheaper solution than the zues kits, once you have done the hard work i bet there will be takers for the parts you get made.

popeye, will be interested to see how it goes. This method usually needs wheel spacers or non-stock rims though AFAIK?

There is another option for how to mount the caliper, have a look near the bottom of this thread for a pic:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=37883

A mate of mine built the original setup to this design. He used rangie front discs all round (bolted to machined, drilled and tapped SIII hubs). He used rangie front calipers on the front (modified to single circuit), and 6cyl ford cortina 2-pot calipers on the rear (pads are $15 an axle set for these calipers).

Another option for the rear is to use the bolt-on caliper mount that is available for the salisbury (was fitted to early disc braked defenders). Then mix and match stock rangie and defender brake parts to get everything to bolt up.

thanks ben, I have spent many hours studying that thead -

You are right, there is no way this setup will work with stock series wheels. I will be getting a set of 9 x 16 rims (when$$$$ alow) so its not a real concern for me.

The advantage of the way your mate has done it, is that it uses off the shelf disks. My way - they are custom drilled, and have to be special ordered blank (but the disks are bigger and better than rangie) As it is now I'll be waiting a few months for the next casting batch as they dont stock them as blanks. As I am only doing low K's so the disks should last many years + i will also keep a complete set as spares. (The're cheap enough to do this)

Also with my way, the front and rear setups are exactly the same, as long as the vt rear (single pot) calipers have the same mounting dimensions.

Hopefully i can adapt a holden master to the series pedal setup, this will save a few headaches as i wont have to worry about mismatched master - slave volumes.


Dramas yet to be sorted -
free wheel hubs for rangie drive member bolt patern ???
series booster with the holden master ??
engineering ???
Will it even fit in aftermarket wheels ??
+ heaps of stuff i dont even realise yet.

Here are some other threads which may be of use.

http://www.landroveraddict.com/ubbthrea ... &fpart=all
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=3208
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=508&hl=
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=3178&hl=

I am happy with the brakes on my heavy 110, so wouldn't want to go bigger (but will fit vented discs to my 110 and probably then put the 110 discs on the IIA).

The setup I mentioned that my mate had used a holden MC grafted onto a series bedal box, so it can be done. You can use any MC though, you just need to use one with the same piston diameter as the holden. I am not a big fan of the sliding caliper type (e.g. holden type as opposed to rangie 4-pot). But holdens do seem to have pretty good brakes. He used a volvo proportioning valve, which is internally adjustable (externally adjustable valves are illegal).


Dramas yet to be sorted -
free wheel hubs for rangie drive member bolt patern ???

Ashcroft or someone in the UK have 5-bolt FWH's for sale. But if you have to machine/drill the discs, why not use machined and drilled SIII hubs?
I just use drive flanges personally.

series booster with the holden master ??

See above

engineering ???

When I looked into it in QLD, If I said it was 100% identical to a defender setup, it would be easy. If I said it was custom made but all bolt on, it would be harder, and involve a brake test (but still not too difficult).

Ashcroft or someone in the UK have 5-bolt FWH's for sale. But if you have to machine/drill the discs, why not use machined and drilled SIII hubs?
I just use drive flanges personally.

I was worried about machining off the ribs that are on the series hub, + worried about the hub face thickness. IE: too thin to get enough thread depth on the rotor mounting bolts. But the TT rover bloke in the above links has had no problems, This is a good option.

I notice a big difference driving with the hubs locked, Couldn't live without FWH.

popeye wrote:

Ashcroft or someone in the UK have 5-bolt FWH's for sale. But if you have to machine/drill the discs, why not use machined and drilled SIII hubs?
I just use drive flanges personally.

I was worried about machining off the ribs that are on the series hub, + worried about the hub face thickness. IE: too thin to get enough thread depth on the rotor mounting bolts. But the TT rover bloke in the above links has had no problems, This is a good option.

I notice a big difference driving with the hubs locked, Couldn't live without FWH.

My mate did a lot of K's on the brake setup, and never had any problems. Then he sold the setup to Mick (bobtail off here) who AFAIK also had no problems until he sold it on again.

When I had FWH, I noticed a big difference for the first few KM when I locked them, but no difference after everything became well oiled. I measured the fuel consumption with and without and found less than 3% difference. But if you have a thirsty holden motor that may matter.

Good luck and let us know how it all goes.