Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anybody done it on a NT suzi. I have seen two different styles done with either running a set of rears on front or to run a std set on the front but reverse the shackle.

Been looking at the calmini bolt on kit and wondering the price of that and maybe of what is needed to do it myself.

cheers

Nic

Hey nic ,
have done reversal on myn !!! (widetrack)
basically used rear springs !
put rear (moving) shackle in original position as fixed eye !!!
then extended new fixed eye mount (aprox) 2" forward !!!
also moved centre pin 2" forward , to move diff forward !!!
run 100 mm body lift !! 2" extended shakles !!!
& 33" SWAMPERS !!!!!
pics on your other inquiry !!! shockers !!!!

Any negatives + positives of doing the conversion other than 2" shackle lift. this is by itself, I will be running 235/75/15 MT max

cheers

Nic

i ran 235,s with just 2" shackles !!!
no props at all !!!
only if you start to go biger , do you need to do more !!!!!!

Hey nic,

I'll be doing it to my rig in the next few weeks. But I'll be using YJ spring packs.

I've got a narrow track and everything so far is working out quite nicely. I had looked at the Calsuck(read calmini) kit and didn't like the "fangs" out the front of the rig.

You'd lose a bucket load of approach angle with that kit.

I'll be taking heaps of pics and their will ve a full right up on auszook.com when it get's re-launched in jan.

Just interested to know why you think the reverse is so good. From what I've seen of them they haven't been worthwhile but...

I have read the same but will wait till skippy has done it so i can get some feedback.

cheers

Nic

Here's an excerpt from an article I read many years ago:

Why a shackle reversal? A normal front leaf spring setup is designed with the rear of the spring solidly mounted to the vehicle's frame while the pivoting shackle mount is located at the front of the spring. With this setup, the front of the spring moves forward as its corresponding wheel is compressed upward into the wheel well. Because the axle is bolted to the spring, it also moves forward as the spring is compressed. Conversely, when a wheel droops it pulls the spring downward, shortening the overall length and moving the axle slightly rearward.

With a shackle reversal, the spring's solid mount is moved to the front of the spring, while the shackle is relocated to the rear of the spring. This setup reverses the forward/rearward movement, causing the axle to move rearward as the spring compresses and forward as the spring droops.

The change in suspension geometry from a shackle reversal provides several benefits. Primarily, on- and off-road ride quality are improved because the front wheels move slightly rearward when they hit bumps, transferring less of a jolt through the vehicle to the passengers. Straight-line stability at higher speeds also improves due to the trailing shackle design. Additionally, placing a tire onto a large obstacle on the trail is made easier since the tire moves rearward as it compresses into the wheel well. The tire that climbs vertically no longer must work against the other three tires that travel horizontally, which causes a bind in the driveline that must be overcome with wheel spin.


I've also seen the exact same springs used in a number of different ways.
1> customised solid mount with regular shackle and chassis extension
2> customised solid mount with missing link
3> chassis extension with shackle reversal
4> chassis extension with missing link shackle reversal

The most cost effective way for ME is to go with option 3. I've also seen many other people use option 3 with these springs and have phenominal results. Well phenominal in my books, and will suit me and what I want to do in terms of wheeling. I don't think I'm going to need much more than 36" of travel.

Sure there are cons to going shackle reversal to like increased brake dive, need for larger bump stops, guard trimming etc.

What sort of things have you heard that are bad Graham? (I don't wanna start a flame war, just curious to hear what others think)



here are some pics. both rigs are running 34" rubber.



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The advantage of having a shackle reversal is that when you are trying to climb ledges etc. as the wheel is travelling up it moves reaerward helping it climb as with the normal setup the wheels are trying to move forward making it harder to climb. You will also have better steering controll with shackle reversal as the shackles flex sideways.
Hope this helps.

Hi Skippy (don't worry about a flame war I'm thick skinned)

1. problems with the wheels fouling on the firewall as the wheels will now travel towards the rear of the vehicle. It is a lot easier to trim guards etc than firewall unless you are going full tube front or custom front

2. The ride may improve slightly but you will probably lose some traction because when you start to climb say a ledge the wheels are moving back with less pressure on them whereas on a normal setup the wheels are being forced down increasing traction (If that makes sense ; )

3. The added drama of trying to get it roadworthy any sort of change to the chassis can be a real pain to certifcate etc.

If you were to go to a fullon offroad only vehicle where insurance and roadworthiness is no issue than you can go a bit nuts and get it working but for someone who is going to use it as a daily driver and also has to ask what it is (no offense nic) I wouldn't recommend it. The benefits aren't there for all the work involved (says I with rear springs in the front and heavily chopped guards and firewall )

Thats aw right.

Me saw a couple of articles and thought it looked interesting to maybe try, but i have looked at your posts and skips and as mine is a daily driver i might be going towards a 2" or 3" lift (possably skips) Cost over what the zooks worth to $ mods makes it a bit unreasable (i only bought it for $800)

cheers

Nic

PS: sparked some interest noneless.

Yep, some good info here. I had the same questions running thru my mind. I might still go a reversal for my budget zook trail rig.

How would the reversal cope with SOA? Would I need to add some form of anti-axle wrap?

give it time nic,

you'll want to go bigger it's like a drug.

I guess at the end of the day the mods ppl do are done to suit them and their needs. what works for sam or someone else might not work for you or I. Personal preference really. Sorta like some like coils and others leaves.

Mine will soon become a non-daily driver and rego/insurance etc isn't much of a concern for me.

Ive had my reversal for 8/9 months !!!!!
wuldnt go back to standard ever !!!!!!!!
even just every day driving , it rides the lumps & bumps so much better !!!!!
Off road is completely different to b4 !!!!
like sam said , it moves the diff backwards on rocks & wat ever , then "kind of " recoils & moves forward !!!!!!!
And the flex is good !!!!