Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Broke my aluminium side steps on the weekend on the 80 series.
Time for some sliders.
I have read most threads here and have a fiar idea on what I want.
Just wondering what people think about my two options.

1. Keep the slider in close to the car. (pic 1)
-looks better
2. Extend the slider out from the car to form a side step and try and provide door protection as well as sill. (pic 2)

Will it protect the doors with option two or not as I don't realy need a side step?
What do ther people think?
Burnsy

rhs sliders are much stronger than tube.

I intende on using RHS under the sill and tube on the outside.
RHS is stronger when the force is applied on the flat but tube has uniform strength all round. The outside piece I would not expect to have to take to much force either.
Burnsy

those look the goods.....my problem is how the hell do they mount them without welding them on, ARB said they can bolt theirs on but their is no way you can have a plate high enough to put a bolt over the chassis without rattling on the floor when wheeling, so i'm looking at a different method..
a square C shape with the long bolt going up the inside of the chassis....
Has anyone got pics of a ARB settup on a patrol so I can looksee????

I designed mine and had a friend weld em up, just a rail, with 3 arms going to the chassis, where a thick metal plate is welded on, with 4 holes. Then another plate of same size with holes in the same spot, goes on the other side of the chassis rail and you run bolts on top & bottom of the rail. No drilling/welding to the car at all .... i havent even bolted all 3 of braces up as they dont fit proply (my bad), and they are stong as

pics:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/R ... G_1006.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/R ... G_0889.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/R ... G_1004.jpg

linked em cuz theyr too big... they still hit a bit on the lip of the sill (3rd pic), i was going to put thick rubber under but havent bothered as it protects the actuall sill, its just the lip thats getting a bit of bending.

The last picture is just the slider part. 3 arms will need to be welded to the and then secure to the chassis.

I have sorted out how I will do the arms and fix to the chassis.

the question is as I said in the first post.

option 1 or 2

Thats the sh*t
That is what I was looking at doing except I intend to have 3 braces back to the chassis.

Still wondering whether to extend them right out and try achieve door protection as well as sill, - or not.
Looks like you have achieved some door protection as well, howver your doors look pretty flat.
On the 80 series they are realy curvy so I'm not sure how I would go.

Burnsy

Dont worry about door protection. If you hit them hard enough it may push up higher stopping the doors from opening and maybe even push them into the door itself.

i was thinking on these probly the same design as most but who cares

Plus I guess if you hang them out more leverage night come into play.



A couple of mine

Heres some pics of some 80's sliders I built for a fella a while back


Dan

few more



This guy wanted a step / slider so his misses could get in easier and also bash the crap outta em in the scrub ...from wat he's said to me his happy with how they stood up thus far





Dan

the whole leverage thing by haveing them stick out is not something i've thought of.
Good point.

Dan
They look pretty good. I have a body lift so I would not need kinked bracing arms.

Do you think they would help provide any extra protection by sticking out further than the ones in the first picture of this post, or was it just done like that to provide a side step.
Burnsy

bruiser wrote:the whole leverage thing by haveing them stick out is not something i've thought of.
Good point.

Do you plan on making them or buying them?? 80lsy QG on this site makes sliders and various other barwork. He is out in ipswich. Shoot him a pm.

The first couple of pics are the sliders i make.The ones on the 80 series in the fist pic mount in 3 places.You have to weld a 12mm plate to your chassis then the sliders bolt up using 4 12mm bolts per mount.
Those sliders protude enough to use as a step and we put some grip tape on them.

The next pic (ones on the shed floor) are for a gq lwb and mount up the same way.I will have a look amongst my pics and see what i have

Kev....

Thanks for the pics guys!
They look pretty bloody good kev.
I would prefer to bolt to the chssis though as I don't like the idea of welding. The paint on the inside of the chassis is going to peel off and scene i spend a lot of time on the beach this could be a bad thing.

Did you make the rear bar on that 80 series? You don't happen to have a pic of it do you?

bruiser wrote:Thanks for the pics guys!
They look pretty bloody good kev.
I would prefer to bolt to the chssis though as I don't like the idea of welding. The paint on the inside of the chassis is going to peel off and scene i spend a lot of time on the beach this could be a bad thing.

Did you make the rear bar on that 80 series? You don't happen to have of it do you.

Yep made the bar as well

Love your work Kev.
Looks awesome.

This is how I fitted mine

suzukiboy wrote:This is how I fitted mine

Please don't take offence Suzukiboy, but that looks like a good way to stuff your chassis, I am guessing you have about 350~400mm of leverage on those sliders and with no diagonal bracing from the top of the chassis bracket to the square tube, if it gets enough load it will hinge imediately above the top weld on the square tube and put a massive kink in your chassis rail.
just my opinion, but I would think about a diagonal brace.

Peter

I plan on doing as above but I will have 3 RHS supports and they will be central to the clamping plate with two gussets on the underside.

Neat design suzukiboy
I agree with DroopyPete though all the load is on the bottom of the rail
Could twist your rail with a big hit
Brace it, This will even out the load to the top and bottom of the rail

2 like this is even beter for RHS as with one you can still distort the RHS as it is barced to the middle and not the sides where the strength is.

I have made two sets of sliders with combo of RHS and pipe, one set for my Lux and one set for the wifes Zook.
Paul.

droopypete wrote:

suzukiboy wrote:This is how I fitted mine

Please don't take offence Suzukiboy, but that looks like a good way to stuff your chassis, I am guessing you have about 350~400mm of leverage on those sliders and with no diagonal bracing from the top of the chassis bracket to the square tube, if it gets enough load it will hinge imediately above the top weld on the square tube and put a massive kink in your chassis rail.
just my opinion, but I would think about a diagonal brace.

Peter

No offence taken droopypete, I welcome any input/ideas etc.
A couple of guys on the NBS site said to do the same thing with a diagonal brace.
I though if I make them too ridged then I could bent the chassis rails?

I dont know weather or not my idea is going to end up a pain in the arse or not, but I'm thinking about having an aluminum(to save some weight) bolt on step so during everyday driving I have the function of a step. Then when going wheeling I can unbolt it so it doesnt hang up on anything. Like I said dont know if its going to turn out a PITA or not, but I'll see how it goes.

shanegtr wrote:I dont know weather or not my idea is going to end up a pain in the arse or not, but I'm thinking about having an aluminum(to save some weight) bolt on step so during everyday driving I have the function of a step. Then when going wheeling I can unbolt it so it doesnt hang up on anything. Like I said dont know if its going to turn out a PITA or not, but I'll see how it goes.

It will be a major pain in the ass! What makes you think that the same object that will cause your aluminium sliders to get hung up wont bash the crap out of your sill with the sliders removed? I'd prefer to keep the protection in place