Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Yeh Yeh... I've used the search function .. but want specifics.

Anyone built sliders for a Rodeo? My aluminium steps are useless and are being used as an ant farm down the side of the house. Want to build a slider with the posibility of a step. There is a religious argument going re tube vs RHS but I am open to any possibility. Pics would be nice.

I have downloaded heaps of pics from Toyos and Nissans, but would like to hear from any Rodeo owners.

Cheers

Rainsey

MMMMMMMM,
2 weeks and no answers.............bugger I was waiting for info as well.
Rainsey, looks like its up to you, maaaaate.
If you have the toyota sliders downloads and a few of the others on the web, a tape measure and a welder + time (thats the one Im short of) and a 1 to 2 inch body lift (I dont have that one either), your almost set.
Potential problems,
mounting around the fuel tank and working out which clamping style to use on the chassis
keeping them up high enough to not compromise our already limited ground clearence, a bit of thought as to the shape and fabrication of the hangers will help here as will the body lift
keeping them low enough so they dont hit the sills the first time they take a knock.
Tube or RHS? to me tube is stronger due to its shape and can be bent with the correct tools.
RHS probably easier to work with ie no curves to weld around and is already the shape of a step.
Wall thickness? 3mm+ should do it.
Im leaning toward one of the toyota designs with the C style clamp mount around the chassis and spacers inside the chassis rails to prevent crushing.
Probably not the answer you were hopeing for eh

As Guzzi said, Round pipe is better. Less prone to vibration cracking but you gotta scallop out some of the ends for some of the joins.
Use heavy gauge pipe (not tube, too thin) if it's going to be NB32 or less, if over that you'll get away with medium gauge.

Just depends how hard you intend to land and slide on stuff really.

I intend to make some with step plate on top for mine too after I do the body lift.
Dont hold yer breath though, that's gonna be a while

Hey Guzzi, time is none existant in my household either at the moment... but I'm not going to let the team down.

I have downloaded my Metaland know your steel mass book and now carry it around with me.. have pricing on 90x6mm plate for the mounts, 40x40x3mm for directly under the sills and I am thinking 48.3mm OD 3.2 thick pipe for the bits sticking out to protect the doors.

Sudso... strength wise I want to use them also as hi lift jack points so i figure if I can lift the truck with then going up, they should be strong enough comming down (I have no qualitative proof on this though!).

Buuuttt..... the pipe vs RHS appears, from other posts, to be a bit of a religious argument.... so I'll use both. Was going to make them along the lines of the pic below... with the inner rails being RHS, outer being pipe and using plate steel wrapped around the chasis & bolted at the top as the mounts.

Stay tuned...

Rainsey

Looks like you have it nutted out Rainsey.
The example in the pic would be easier to make too.

Guys,

You know the best thing about having a 4x4.... the excuse to tell the wife you need a new tool..... just realised... need a pipe bender now.... then the plasma cutter...... then.....

Look how much money you save if you do it yourself!!... Self justification leads to self gratification and a garage full of new toys!!! (Bank balance is shit thought!)


I Love it!

Cheers

Rainsey

Now she will want you to bend her up a new hills hoist!

Now she will want you to bend her up a new hills hoist!

Don't laugh... the bloody Hills 'Fold a line' has folded up good an proper. I have a big phillips head screw driver and cable ties holding the bloody thing up... only because you cannot get the part I need... the bloody Rodeo is more reliable. Thank god for cable ties!!

I am a dick head though.... my initial measure ments are flawed... 40mmm RHS with 48.3mmOD tube..... I am amazed I have no flame mail by now! What do I do with the extra 8mm?

Today I bought my flat steel for the chasis mounts and the 40 x 3mm RHS for the inner rails. If someting dents this metal god help the rest of the truck... it weighs a ton ( 65kg actually but whose counting)

2 metre long inner rails have just been cut and butt plugs welded on the end. Cannot work over the weekend due to kids sporting commitments so do not expect too many updates until next week. Pics to follow.

Cheers

Rainsey

Ah, where would we be without cable ties and duct tape?

Sounds like your rig will handle some rough stuff with those sliders, I'm looking forward to seeing the end result.
At the rate your'e going you'll need a supercharged V6 soon to haul it along!

Myself, I'm definitely going for the Calmini control arm kit down the track.
I really want the extra wheel travel and a bit more lift up front.
'They' reckon you have to drop the front diff an inch or so because of the cv angles but I'm not keen on that. I think Haultech Engineering or someone make complete driveshaft assemblies for Rodeo's that can handle 45 deg. or something, that way I retain front diff clearance too.

later
sudso

Hey Sudso.. make sure when you do go the calmini arms, you let us know. I was looking at them probably 18 months ago and chickend out as I could find no one with them and was also concerned about engineering in NSW. There are certain things that I don't mind being on the bleeding edge and other things that I have no balls for at all. This was one of them.

The front wheel travel is certainely a prob.... but also you have to find a front shocky that is small enough to fit in but can still give you the travel.

The idea of dropping the front diff scares the bejesus out of me becuase there is not that much meat on the axle mounts thus you would have to some how extend them.... this takes on a whole new meaning of mods that are legal. Also, drop the diff and leave the suspension where it is seems to defeat the purpose of the expense of the calmini arms to start with. What you gain by travel you loose in the distance the dif is dropped as the upper arms would still stay at the same mounting spot I would have thought. ( also I say this totally uneducated on the topic so I could be wrong)

The Haultech solution sounds better if you can source them. Infact I will do a search for them myself as, with the 285's on, shaved back bumpers and the top ball joint reversal, my front CV's look like they are ready to pop at times. Last time I had my front drivers wheel air bourne I was hearing some very unhealthy noises from my CV and this was pre wheel enlargement.

Anyway... time for a chardie so will catch you later.

Cheers

Rainsey

rainsey wrote: (Bank balance is shit thought!)

You still get the increased wheel travel, dropping the diff just gets the cv angles back into safe angles. From the build up of this I saw on an overseas Isuzu forum, (cant remember which one) the front axle assembly is dropped separately from the suspension so the extra lift and wheel travel gained isnt lost. The front diff ends up at the same height from the ground though but I reckon the better driveshafts would be a cheaper option than a diff drop. No wengineers to worry bout either.
Calmini make and supply the correct length shocks to suit.
4WD USA in WA are the importers. http://www.4wdusa.com.au/

Down at th comp. a couple of weeks ago Tuff Stuff 4x4 had their IFS Hilux "Monster Truck" on display. They didnt drive it in the comp but they did drive it down from Adelaide. It looks like its had about 14" of total lift, the similar thing been done eg: dropped diff, extra travel, modded control arms, 35's, body lift etc. They themselves even said it is more of a wankmobile more for show than anything.
I chatted with the director of Tuff Stuff at the Field Days last weekend, they had a site there and he said the Hilux is legal, fully engineered and he could do a similar job on mine, get double the wheel travel of standard etc. and engineered. Would cost a bit more than a Calmini kit though

Time for a night cap
sudso

my initial measure ments are flawed... 40mmm RHS with 48.3mmOD tube..... I am amazed I have no flame mail by now! What do I do with the extra 8mm?

WTF were you thinking!
too many chardies for rainsey

someone had to do it

Guys, Any idea if the supercheap autos 12 tonne pipe bender will bend 40NB 48.3mm OD 3.2mm thick tube without self destructing??

Cheers

Rainsey

Jus to share pics of my truck with sliders.

OK Motion,
youve done it now.
You have what everone here is working toward, out with the specifics.
Body lift
Pipe dimensions
chassis attachment
Problems
How much $$
Oh and photos,we want lots and lots of photos,yeh.






Please??

Oh yeah baby.....

Here I am trying to reinvent the wheel.......... more pics please!!

Cheers

Rainsey

Latest update..

I have opted for 32NB tube ( (43mmOD) 3.2 thick for the outer sections of the sliders. I have completed the inner sections (god I have to learn how to bloody weld vertically in a tight space), and they are bolted on. I have 40mm between the top of the slider and the body hoping this will be enough if I hit something hard and flex up.

I do have a habit of over engineering.... I am also going to weld on some mounts that will fit over the bolts that the body connects to the chassis. Rational that it should restrict the upward flex, especially if I want to use the sliders for a high lift jack point.

No pictures yet as I have to cover up my horrendous welding effort.

Have hired over the weekend a tube bender and will probably bend the tube at a 90 degree angle so I have enoungh space to build and mount some guard protectors. Will not build these until I have my snorkel mounted ( need to make sure I do not foul the entry for the snorkel).

Based on the steel mass book from Metaland, the total weight of both sides should be around 40Kg. Not toom much if it protects the body.

Stay tuned

Rainsey

Graham, make sure you run a spreader bar under the sill so when it does flex upwards, the weight is distributed evenly on the sill, rather than having 2 or 3 round dings in the sill.

Maggot,

I have a 40x40 rhs that goes directly under the sill (directly under the flange of steel that joins the inner and outer sill together). I take it this is what you are talking about.

They are not as pretty as some but will have to do for the moment.

See pic below

Cheers

Rainsey

looking good rainsey

What do you do with all the fluid lines etc that are clipped to the chassis rails.
I suppose the diesels have less than a petrol running along there.

Guzzi wrote:OK Motion,
youve done it now.
You have what everone here is working toward, out with the specifics.
Body lift
Pipe dimensions
chassis attachment
Problems
How much $$
Oh and photos,we want lots and lots of photos,yeh.
Please??

I have not done any body lift yet, planning to do in near future.

Sorry that I cant help much as I dont have the details for my sliders as I bought it over from my friend who gave up his truck.

As for chassis attachment, I have only 2 contact points per slider.
They are made of 5mm steel plate.

sudso wrote: What do you do with all the fluid lines etc that are clipped to the chassis rails.

I managed to slide the 6mm plate between the lines and the chassis in all cases. The only prob I had was the fuel tank where I could not get a nut in.

In this case I tapped the inside holes of the 'u' bracket and will be putting a nut on the inside to act as a lock nut.. i.e. put the bolt in part of the way, screw on a nut then screw bolt into bracket then tichten up nut to bracket. The remaining brackets will use nylock nuts.

I am paining it tonight so I should have them on tomorrow.

Cheers

Rainsey

Your ingenuity overwhelms me Rainsey!

Teach me more oh Great One!

Well guys, they were worth it. On an outing with the club today they saved my bacon a few times, I have a ironstone coloured graze down the passengers side slider to prove it (bugger, the paint did not last a week).

I landed on them a few times with no apparent deformation but I have decided I will not use them as a high lift mount point. While they will hold the weight of the car, I think,with the 450 mm total width from the chassis, I fell ther emay be a weeeee too much leaverage on the chassis.

I must admit though, with them on and knowing that they extended beyond my doors, I had a habit today of throwing the truck into places I would normaly hesitate at.

Cheers

Rainsey

Guys.. the finished product. Sliders, 285's all round, 2" suspension 2" body lift, rear air locker. Noting else I can figure out to do to it to keep up with the GU's of the world!

BTW, the rear locker is worth every cent.. if you do not have one .. save your pennies

Cheers

Rainsey

Great work Rainsey! You have given the rest of us some hope and inspiration.
Looks like a real 4wd now and doing what it's supposed to do.
I'm green now

Who makes a rear air locker for R9's?
I thought ARB only made them for the front

BTW, Dont forget to seal up the foam breathers on the bellhousing if your'e doing water crossings
Mine's still off the road with a buggered clutch, hang on, yours is diesel it has a different clutch set up than mine. check anyway

Sudso

Sudso,

My rear locker is an ARB. They installed the RD44. Works a treat, all I can say is what I do not have in articulation I can sort of make up with the locker. I was in a situation with my drivers side front in the air and my rear passengers wheel in the air (effectively a 1 wheel drive)... would have been screwed without the locker.

I am amazed though of the number of bigger vehicles that are not running them... maybe they are purists.

Re the breather.. the day you posted your issue with yours I got under my truck and stuffed if I could find one. I poked and prodded and could find nothing that resembled what you were talking about.... is it at the very bottom of the bell housing where it meats the engine block?


Cheers

Rainsey

Re the breather.. the day you posted your issue with yours I got under my truck and stuffed if I could find one. I poked and prodded and could find nothing that resembled what you were talking about.... is it at the very bottom of the bell housing where it meats the engine block?

Yes, right at the bottom, but mine is a V6 and I'm sure it has a different clutch set up to a diesel so you may not have it. I'll email a couple of pic's when I get a round tuit.

It is very inconspicuous, it's not until you take it off that you realise it has a breathable foam seal.

Sounds like your club has fun. I wish there was one around here.

May have to look into starting one

WTF!?

Where's all the pic's gone of Rainseys sliders???