Outer Limits 4x4 Board

In the design stage of some rock sliders for the lux - looking for some tech or pics on mounting systems (to chassis), and opinions (body is 50mm skywards). Only simple design made from 75x50 rhs (3 or 5mm wall - I dunno) and 10mm plate sandwiching the chassis rail, bolted through (chassis rail) on the bottom (for flat belly) and clamping on the top (with crush tube). Large plating for surface area, with a little bit of gussetting. Just something simple to keep the rash away from my precious camo panels was going to extend the slider all the way to leading edge of rear tyre. Any more ideas?

chech out www.superiorengineering.com .au they got bad arse rock sliders

couple of pics of mine

that is what i will do not weld to the chassie

Weld them to the chassie with large 6mm plates. Any other way and they will bend or move.

mine do move a little bit, but they havent bent.
i will be welding them to the chassis at some stage though to gain clearance

This is how I made mine.
They flex a little (only a very small amount) with the full weight of one side of the lux on them (Hilift jack testing). But the way I made them is so when they do flex up at all the full length piece of RHS contacts with the pinch weld on the sill panels and spreads the weight.
Paul.

RUFF wrote:Weld them to the chassie with large 6mm plates. Any other way and they will bend or move.

Yes i agree!

As you can see with killa's if you were to slide along the chassis you would get hung up!

If you weld a nice bit of plate to the chassis and then weld to that you will not punch the frame in!

In saying that mine is welded directly to the frame and it hasn't moved!!!

Mined you it hardly gets used!

i plan to either try and make or just by a set from superior engineering theirs are bomb proof.. plus.. you can pivot 360 degrees if you lean or touch a rock and put the boot in... and they dont even locck like flexin more then 5mm

Jake you say Superior do bomb proof sliders but i dont see any pics on their site. What makes you say they are so good?

Would this work ?

dont see why not, as long as the u channel was a tight fit over the chassis rail

shorty40, thats how i made the GQ ones, bloody good steps.
On the GU i have welded angle to the chassis and bolted matching angle to it.
before and after pics.

new mounts [pic was not taken of the mounts, it was of the damage...sorry]

yeah sorry ruff i can only remember where i saw them and i think it was on the LCMP recovery ute when it had a couple of pages in the 4wdmonthly...

i think they are superior alignments sliders not superior engineering.

Shorty40 wrote:Would this work ?

Yes that is how i was going to do mine if i ever finished them

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/sliders/

thats a good link troy

That link is tops Buddy. I thought of the channel mount system but then its a catchy surface, plus too lazy/busy/cheap to get some flat bent and possibility of movement.

Area54 wrote:That link is tops Buddy. I thought of the channel mount system but then its a catchy surface, plus too lazy/busy/cheap to get some flat bent and possibility of movement.

Damn area 54 thats the type on the blue ones above, ROCKCATCHER

just weld square plates to the hilux frame 5mm or 6mm and weld to them for the bars for the sliders, its how ruff did his and let me say they are BEEEEEEFFFFF (no movement, not even a quiver)

might i add most hilux frames could use a little bracing, whether it be in the form of steel welded on to weld sliders too, or whether it be to stop them breaking in half!

The same at the top, but flat at the bottom because they bolt through the bottom of the chassis. I'm not going to burn them on with my stick, and ya have to work with what you've got.

Troy you could always make everything up and bring it out to work and we can burn them, on for you.

http://www.geocities.com/george_tlc/slider.html

http://www.geocities.com/george_tlc/sliderd.html

I have a question, if it is welded directly to the chasis how do you replace the slider if you mangle it?

Drafty wrote:I have a question, if it is welded directly to the chasis how do you replace the slider if you mangle it?

you get out the grinder cut it off, and start again, build em beef and you shouldn't have to worry

i dont like the idea of the c section around the chassis, i believe it would cause the chassis to rust.


NICK

NICK wrote:i dont like the idea of the c section around the chassis, i believe it would cause the chassis to rust.


NICK

Granted. But is that any worse than drilling at least 24 holes in your chassis ?

you could always use sicaflex or even windscreen goo to seal the wind c section to the chasis that wood be cheap and easy

Area54 wrote:That link is tops Buddy. I thought of the channel mount system but then its a catchy surface, plus too lazy/busy/cheap to get some flat bent and possibility of movement.

mine r made like this but my top bolt goes thru the chassis and they have 8mm plates welded 2 both sides of the chassis and then an 8mm plate bolts to this that the slider is welded 2

hypolux wrote:

Area54 wrote:That link is tops Buddy. I thought of the channel mount system but then its a catchy surface, plus too lazy/busy/cheap to get some flat bent and possibility of movement.

A1mav made mine like this but my top bolt goes thru the chassis and they have 8mm plates welded 2 both sides of the chassis and then an 8mm plate bolts to this that the slider is welded 2

And finally they r painted 8 months later

Mine have a (approx) 30mm flat welded to the side of the frame with 4 holes that are tapped in it, there is one at the front and one at the back. Then the sliders are bolted to the plates, using 4 bolts at the front and 4 at the back, this way it leaves the under side of the frame smooth and the bars are removeable.

Yesterday I had basicly the whole weight of the lux on the drivers side slider (drivers rear wheel was off the ground and lux was leaning to drivers side heeps) and then pivoted almost 90 deg on it, then drove forward about a foot with weigth still on the slider and it never moved.