Page 1 of 1
Welding Seirra rear diff Q
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:07 am
by ausyota
OK First off I searched damnit.
I came up with so many different ways of doing it.
The link in the Bible at the top of the section
http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/weldeddiff1/
Seems a pretty dodgy way of doing it just filling the gaps in the teeth with weld.
Also found the pic below of just welding the side gears to the carrier and end plate. Still sounds a bit week.
Then there are people who say weld everywhere you can inside there including bits of plate or bolts etc.
What works?
Who has done it what way?
I dont want it to crap itself.
How strong are the sierra axles? It will see a little street driving (only probably half an hour a day) I know being a fairly light vehicle it should be OK.
I have a second hand ARB that I could put in the rear but I think I will buy the new side gears to suit the front spline and run it there with a welded rear.
Paul.
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 4:30 pm
by germo
I just welded the spider gears, i think thats what they are called, anyways I welded the little ones together and to the cage. basically I put some metal between them so not too have to bigger gap, and welded the whole lot together with my stick wleder. as I have been a tight bum and not got any gas for the mig. the stick is sweet though.
I've done three this way, the first one came apart and the diff started working again as it mashed the weld into the gears and started to work again.
2nd and 3rd time I didn't hold back, and they have not broken.
and the hilux diffs i have now are exactly the same, but I didn't do it.
but I have not actually seen it done the other way, ie sun gear welded to the cage and the spider gears taken out.
have I got these around the right way? sun gears little ones and the spider are the ones that hold the axle?
i'm confused
enjoy ashley
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 7:44 pm
by Guy
I initially tried filling some weld into the side gears .. the weld crushed in a few days .. back to open diff ... Looking back it's a stoopid idea as it puts a huge load onto the bolts that hold the case together
SOO I welded the side gear to the carrier, not the plate that unbolts, but the carrier itself held up OK to my driving..
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 7:56 pm
by germo
i don't understand how it puts load onto any bolts other than the ones that the crown wheel is bolts onto, wich will always be the same open or welded.
if you weld all of the little ones together as you first did. it put the load on the pins that they spin on, wich go into the case, therefore transfering the load to the bolts that hold the crown wheel on.
if you take the little gears out, and weld the side ones to the cage, the side that the crown wheel is on will be one peice, but the other side which unbolts will transfer all of the load that goes to that axle through the bolts that hold the cage together.
in that case it will have about 8 bolts or something, which will be impressive to sheer!
I'm not saying that this doesn't work, becuase it is a legit way to weld a diff
I can't understand your theory, but am interested in your theory because I may have missed something!
enjoy ashley
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:01 pm
by "CANADA"
2 peices of 10mm plate and a whole lot of 1.6 flux core

Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:49 pm
by ausyota
MADZUKI wrote:2 peices of 10mm plate and a whole lot of 1.6 flux core

More information please?
Where did the plate get welded?
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:55 pm
by Guy
Putting weld into the teeth, or welding the spider gears (the 4 small gears) makes that side gears try to climb the teeth (think phillps head screw. and stripping the head cos your not pusing down on the screw driver hard enough) this is similar to what the welded gears are doing..
The bolts on the side plate are all of a sudden in tension as well as shear..
If you weld the side gear to the carrier this is not an issue
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 9:06 pm
by "CANADA"
ausyota wrote:MADZUKI wrote:2 peices of 10mm plate and a whole lot of 1.6 flux core

More information please?
Where did the plate get welded?
im not sure how the zook carrier is setup but by far the best way to weld any diff....
basicly cut the plate to size to fit in between the spider gears and weld away...leting it cool after each layer to keep things from cracking
do you have any pics of the zook diff apart?
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 9:20 pm
by ausyota
MADZUKI wrote:ausyota wrote:MADZUKI wrote:2 peices of 10mm plate and a whole lot of 1.6 flux core

More information please?
Where did the plate get welded?
im not sure how the zook carrier is setup but by far the best way to weld any diff....
basicly cut the plate to size to fit in between the spider gears and weld away...leting it cool after each layer to keep things from cracking
do you have any pics of the zook diff apart?
The problem with the zook diff is that the carrier is fully enclosed and the only way to get to the spider gears is through the end after undoing the bolts.
Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 3:44 pm
by "CANADA"
ausyota wrote:MADZUKI wrote:ausyota wrote:MADZUKI wrote:2 peices of 10mm plate and a whole lot of 1.6 flux core

More information please?
Where did the plate get welded?
im not sure how the zook carrier is setup but by far the best way to weld any diff....
basicly cut the plate to size to fit in between the spider gears and weld away...leting it cool after each layer to keep things from cracking
do you have any pics of the zook diff apart?
The problem with the zook diff is that the carrier is fully enclosed and the only way to get to the spider gears is through the end after undoing the bolts.
whell then....
DIFF SWAP

Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 7:32 pm
by zookjedi
if you weld the four spider gears (little gears ) together using steel, bolts what ever to help fill in the gaps the side gears will not be able to move and load up any bolts as the gear is not gunna try and ramp up the locked spider gears as long as the spider gears are welded solid with no movement and welded properly so the welds dont fail down the track , if you use 16tc rods (low hydragen ) the welds are generally a lot stronger , your axles will be fine on the road but eventuall the splines will start to twist , but even an auto locker does this and even still its still drivable.
biggest problem ive had was when i bought a car with diff welded , only thespider gears were welded to the pins and housing , worked for 1 year than welds broke than side gear ramped up welds when the spider gears started to turn and busted housing , problem was simply not enough metal locking spider gears to gether since i did my own and a mates been running them for near 4 years no dramas , no breakages etc and mainly playing on high traction rock stuff
jai
Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 10:09 pm
by Zute
Another way is to fill it up with lead.